Dirtdives2424
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Ok PerniciousDuke, looks like it's between 3 and 6.....which I agree w. Badkitty. The others are just too dark or too light.
Duke's Skyrim Nightingale Armor
- Thread starter PerniciousDuke
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TurboCharizard
Sr Member
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- S068
PerniciousDuke do you have a sample of the fabric that you'll be using for the cloak/hood/cowl to help us get a bearing on how your colours will play together?
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
That is a good question TurboCharizard. Some things I will have to buy and they will most likely be hard to weather and come straight black.
For the cowl I am not sure, but it will be handmade from a thick weave black fabric.
The undersuit most likely a zentai suit for now. With things like the arm wraps being custom.
The gloves will be store bought (or thrift store) and black.
The boots. Omg. I never thought I would spend 2 hours shopping for boots online. But I think I've settled on these and adding the couple faux buckles myself.
Now, I think I mislead you guys with photos because no one seems to be siding with my roommate and my color choice. Lol. Let me back up a little.
Part of recreating the game character is capturing the idea of the character that people have in their mind after playing it. With the nightingale the idea is that his clothes are black. Just like when they make an action figure of him he's jet black.
(in game) 
(action figure)
Now the question is which one is cooler?
In person most people have responded the action figure. I agree, but I think if I were to make it jet black it would look too flat. (Turns out how to really make those ridges is wet forming. Make a wooden mold and press the leather into it)
So, what I was hoping for was something darker than the game model, but still had some color or variance to it. That's why our vote has been #4. Remember, the background is the in game model.
For the cowl I am not sure, but it will be handmade from a thick weave black fabric.
The undersuit most likely a zentai suit for now. With things like the arm wraps being custom.
The gloves will be store bought (or thrift store) and black.
The boots. Omg. I never thought I would spend 2 hours shopping for boots online. But I think I've settled on these and adding the couple faux buckles myself.
Now, I think I mislead you guys with photos because no one seems to be siding with my roommate and my color choice. Lol. Let me back up a little.
Part of recreating the game character is capturing the idea of the character that people have in their mind after playing it. With the nightingale the idea is that his clothes are black. Just like when they make an action figure of him he's jet black.
(in game) (action figure)Now the question is which one is cooler?
In person most people have responded the action figure. I agree, but I think if I were to make it jet black it would look too flat. (Turns out how to really make those ridges is wet forming. Make a wooden mold and press the leather into it)
So, what I was hoping for was something darker than the game model, but still had some color or variance to it. That's why our vote has been #4. Remember, the background is the in game model.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
#4 will likely show a lot of contrast to the heavy knit black fabrics as well! Adding highlights to darker materials is always easier than darkening up a material.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Halfway through cutting the pieces and I'm already losing my elbow grease.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
PaiganBoi It's more like cutting foam mats. You've got to make sure you're holding your knife at 90 degrees. You've got to keep a sharp knife. You've got to over cut to get clean corners. Cut away too much and there is no going back. Now imagine a single foam puzzle piece costs $40-50 and you also have to press 10 times harder to get the knife to cut through. It's a bit stressful, but I'm almost through it. Then comes the fun part of getting the leather wet.
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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- S2424
Fashion has no time limit.......
You could always substitute w/ headlight fluid.......
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
I did manage to finish cutting all those pieces last weekend! And I bought shoes online. 
Next up, tomorrow I'll be taking one of the handguards and completing the process to workout any unforeseen setbacks using as small of piece as possible. I'll round and sand the edges, cut more details in, stamp around the details, form the shape by drying it around the shape of something rigid, dye it and weather it. Wish me luck!
Next up, tomorrow I'll be taking one of the handguards and completing the process to workout any unforeseen setbacks using as small of piece as possible. I'll round and sand the edges, cut more details in, stamp around the details, form the shape by drying it around the shape of something rigid, dye it and weather it. Wish me luck!
Sean Anwalt
Sr Member
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- S530
Luck is the last dying wish of those who want to believe that winning can happen by accident.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Oh there's gonna be some accidents most likely. I'm just hoping it's not a train wreck.
Sean Anwalt
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S530
Haha, leather work is a difficult skill to master. But if you keep going the way you've been, and measure three or four times, then cut big and trim when necessary, you've got it made.
To bad there's not a cloth version out there you can take apart at the seams and replace with leather...
To bad there's not a cloth version out there you can take apart at the seams and replace with leather...
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
First run went really well!
For those of you that dont know, I like to really write out what I do. The reason is because I'm likely to forget so having something to look back on is really helpful for me. But, if someone else gets use from it then that is great too.
Starting with the wrist guards:
After cutting out the shape I used 150 grit sand paper to get flatter, smoother edges.
Used a leather edge beveler to knock of the edge. Then finished with a 220 grit to really round it out.
Used a pencil to draw a pattern onto leather tracing paper (it's like really thick wax paper)
Then I used a paper towel, or sponge, to slowly wet the leather, starting with the backside and letting it seep through.
With the leather wet and pliable set on a hard surface such as marble, I used a leather stylus to transfer the pattern by imprinting it in the leather.
Next I cut along the lines at a 90 degree angle using a swivel knife. Named because the base can swivel independently from the finger hold at the top, allowing for smooth curved cuts. Be aware of how deep you cut as well. I generally cut half as deep as the leather is.
Leather is abrasive and dulls knives quickly. Leather also needs to be cut cleaning, if the blade snags it will be obvious once dyed. In between cuts I sharpen my blade using the rough side of a dry piece of leather. A buffing compound called rouge is added to give the sharpened edge a better finish.
Next I use a bevel stamp to push down one side of the cut, giving the leather that real 3d effect.
Next I use a background stamp (Tandy #E294-04) to hide my terrible bevel stamping abilities.
I think it looks pretty cool. I took that wet leather and held it over my roommate's wrist. Holding that shape as best I could I took it to my heat gun and got it to dry in the proper shape.
To achieve my desired color I apllied two coats of Eco-Flo Black Oil Dye with a paper towel, making sure to not press into the pits.
Next I apllied one coat of Eco-Flo Black Smoke Hi-Lite Stain using a paper towel making sure to get all the crevices this time. I wiped excess off with a paper towel and used a heat gun to dry.
I took 220 grit sandpaper and made random scuff marks.
Then I applied one coat of Eco-Flo Satin Shene to seal and protect the leather. Doing so also got rid of all the visible scuffing. Oh well.
For those of you that dont know, I like to really write out what I do. The reason is because I'm likely to forget so having something to look back on is really helpful for me. But, if someone else gets use from it then that is great too.
Starting with the wrist guards:
After cutting out the shape I used 150 grit sand paper to get flatter, smoother edges.
Used a leather edge beveler to knock of the edge. Then finished with a 220 grit to really round it out.
Used a pencil to draw a pattern onto leather tracing paper (it's like really thick wax paper)
Then I used a paper towel, or sponge, to slowly wet the leather, starting with the backside and letting it seep through.
With the leather wet and pliable set on a hard surface such as marble, I used a leather stylus to transfer the pattern by imprinting it in the leather.
Next I cut along the lines at a 90 degree angle using a swivel knife. Named because the base can swivel independently from the finger hold at the top, allowing for smooth curved cuts. Be aware of how deep you cut as well. I generally cut half as deep as the leather is.
Leather is abrasive and dulls knives quickly. Leather also needs to be cut cleaning, if the blade snags it will be obvious once dyed. In between cuts I sharpen my blade using the rough side of a dry piece of leather. A buffing compound called rouge is added to give the sharpened edge a better finish.
Next I use a bevel stamp to push down one side of the cut, giving the leather that real 3d effect.
Next I use a background stamp (Tandy #E294-04) to hide my terrible bevel stamping abilities.
I think it looks pretty cool. I took that wet leather and held it over my roommate's wrist. Holding that shape as best I could I took it to my heat gun and got it to dry in the proper shape.
To achieve my desired color I apllied two coats of Eco-Flo Black Oil Dye with a paper towel, making sure to not press into the pits.
Next I apllied one coat of Eco-Flo Black Smoke Hi-Lite Stain using a paper towel making sure to get all the crevices this time. I wiped excess off with a paper towel and used a heat gun to dry.
I took 220 grit sandpaper and made random scuff marks.
Then I applied one coat of Eco-Flo Satin Shene to seal and protect the leather. Doing so also got rid of all the visible scuffing. Oh well.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Here's an example of how tricky leather can be to dye:
Even with the same exact dying process one turns out black and the second, brown.
Possible reasons- first one could have had more black dye in each coat, first one could have let the hi-lite black smoke sit longer before wiping off excess, second one could have not dried as long before applying shene. The shene likes to remove undried hi-lite.
Even with the same exact dying process one turns out black and the second, brown.
Possible reasons- first one could have had more black dye in each coat, first one could have let the hi-lite black smoke sit longer before wiping off excess, second one could have not dried as long before applying shene. The shene likes to remove undried hi-lite.
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
Hey PerniciousDuke.....I was watching The Curse of Oak Island the other day and I learned something I think you might find helpful.
The team was looking for a particular stone in a nearby town that was lost for about 70 years. The last sighting of it was in a book binding store. It was in the window display. The stone, although was an important part of the current investigation, was used by the binding company as a leather softener and texture "maker". They would beat the leather on the stone slab w/ a soft mallet to give it softness, texture and "character" as they put it. Perhaps that is something you could use as a technique in your build?
The team was looking for a particular stone in a nearby town that was lost for about 70 years. The last sighting of it was in a book binding store. It was in the window display. The stone, although was an important part of the current investigation, was used by the binding company as a leather softener and texture "maker". They would beat the leather on the stone slab w/ a soft mallet to give it softness, texture and "character" as they put it. Perhaps that is something you could use as a technique in your build?
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
That is certainly a good idea Dirtdives ! A lot better than the suggestion from the leather forum guy who said I should run over it with my car!
I don’t think you want the “run over by car” look on your build. That is a different forum group.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Update:
I've figured out what was causing my colors to turn out different. Normally I would let leather dry and shape overnight. The first hand plate I heat gunned a little then went and got dinner. The second hand plate I heat gunned a lot. That caused the smooth side's pores to close and not soak as much black dye.
Exciting news though... I figured out how to get those bigger ridges. It's a technique using what's called a bone file. I pressed this plastic tool in to the reverse side over and over again during the drying process.
The result.... pretty game like if you ask me.
I've figured out what was causing my colors to turn out different. Normally I would let leather dry and shape overnight. The first hand plate I heat gunned a little then went and got dinner. The second hand plate I heat gunned a lot. That caused the smooth side's pores to close and not soak as much black dye.
Exciting news though... I figured out how to get those bigger ridges. It's a technique using what's called a bone file. I pressed this plastic tool in to the reverse side over and over again during the drying process.
The result.... pretty game like if you ask me.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
Looking like a weekend of leather. I hope my neighbors don't mind all the hammering.
Finished (in 11 hours)
2 hands
2 arms
2 shoulders
The bottom middle of the tunic
Finished (in 11 hours)
2 hands
2 arms
2 shoulders
The bottom middle of the tunic
Sean Anwalt
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S530
So very much like
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