alright gents,
update time,
your combined efforts have broken my last photobucket account, i probably wont be reuploading the photos to a different account, but they will be back online after xmas, or thats what photobucket says.
i may upload a few choice shots for the benefit of those who ahve yet to see the work thus far, but that depends upon time, as most of it is spent building for my deadline, jan 7th.
after then, i'll be working on adding glowing eyes as well as other things.
first up, i've ordered a spandex hood to wear under the armor... i wish i had gotten the one that covers the eyes and not the mouth, instead i got a 3 hole one.
i may try and get a better one for the con i go to after Jan, as i'll have more income and more time.
i'll also need the hood for an ODST group i will be assisting with.
the helmet is done, so it needs some priming.
here is the prep shot.
and the after shot.
i had to hunt around for a good, soft flexible pipe for the gasmask, and could only find a stiff rubber one at an auto shop :/
i thought a heat gun could bully it into a good shape, but no luck...
what it did do was separate the two layers of rubber separated by a woven layer, which proved useful later.
i raided my junk box, and found a metal gas line, the ones that hold their shape when you bend them around...
well, if the pipe wont do what i tell it too, i'll shove something down it that will!
so that worked out REALLY well, other than the extra weight, which is adding up now..
i found a few extra interesting bits of junk, the red part being from the tip of an old chinese spring airsoft i butchered.
cut it down, attached it to a piece of PVC pipe, and used the separated rubber layers as an anchor to slip part of the red airsoft gun's nozzle inbetween them.
i then used one of the plumbing screw tightening clasps to keep it all in place.. i had set it aside as something that looked good for the whole "post apoc punk" look of jury rigged armor.. didn't expect it to be so useful as well as appropriate!!
with all the internal details set for the mask, i decided to start the fiberglassing. i was very concerned with some advice i had gotten from some members of the forum about styrene melting under the effect of fiberglass resin,
i tried a tester and it seemed to work out, so i went for it, and i guess the styrene was thick enough that it was not an issue, which was a big relief.
so heres the inside of the mask.
layed out ready for fiberglass
learned this lesson the hard way..
don't make big batches of resin.
i used 4 fluid ounces of the stuff in a plastic cup and barely got through an 8th of the cup of resin before it set solid around my paintbrush..
after that, i started working with 1/2 to a full fluid ounce per resin "batch"
batch 2
i forget how many, but it was about 3 or 4 batches before i was happy to leave it alone.
once it set, well.. it went from being fragile to me now being reasonably confidant i could drop it on the tile kitchen from my face height and not break the actual mask.. when beforehand the zippkicked superglue was about as fragile as glass.
in-fact i would be willing to bet a drop and punt of this thing across my yard would not do much damage, it had a certain amount of flex to it before, and now it's remarkably rigid, in-fact a little too much now, as i didn't realize i relied upon some flex for it to fit inside the helmet.. oh well, my strengthening method worked a little too well! live and learn.
after this blurry shot, i got to work trimming the excess and spiky bits, i need to do abit more sanding, but that's fine. it will also be lined with foam, so long as i dont have needle sharp pieces in my face, it will be fine for my goal.
now, i wanted to add a few external details, so i heated up the tip of a pen, and got to work adding rivet/bolt holes in accurate locations to the high res pictures.
Now with what done, i went back to my armor vest,
one of the best parts of armor i find is making the scratches and paint chippings.
firstly i get some watered down liquid latex, and paint in all the areas i want to STAY metal.
sort of line inverted painted, i paint over what i want to keep, and leave the rest
i usually make my scratches bigger than i want, so i can thin them and distress the edges more. plus it's easier to take away than add when it comes to the next few steps.
after dried i painted the whole suit roughly with a good base grey acrylic, and took a gum square (you can get these for a few bucks at most serious art stores) to the obviously shinyer areas (the places where i had painted the latex, as the finish on the latex will be often different to the finish on other surfaces, even with the same paint.
the latex will rub, peel or stick to the gum square pretty easy, and so long as your gentle with the square, you wont mess up the paint around it by adding wrinkles to the foam.