FINALLY - Movie Accurate WAR MACHINE and IRON MAN Helmets

[daurkin]

i found that the Sharkbeetle/Dunghead (unfolded by Dubean33) has all those adjustments. i'm going to try that one next.

Dang, I just found a post from DungBeetle aka Dunghead, that his files were being used and and claimed by others so he removed all the links he knew about. Where's another place to get some ironman armor and helments?

 

[muscleflex]

can i please ask... how can i use these files for printing to a 3d printer?
i have access to a 3d printer and WOULD LOVE to try this warmachine helmet... PLEASE PLEASE HELP!! :$)

 

[muscleflex]

I need help please - currently trying to finish my war machine first ever pepakura... but i've hit a snag.
the back of the helmet.. i've included a photo. the middle is indented. and this piece that i have a problem with, it's a valley fold but it doesn't make sense as valley fold won't attach it to the corresponding piece because valley fold tabs would just lie on top point away from the piece it needs to attach to.
sorry it's hard to describe.
i was wondering if this is a mistake and it should really be a mountain fold?

 

[dubean33]

uhh its a little hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like there are tabs on both sides. If so, i'd just cut one side of the tabs off and just use the mountain fold. Its supposed to be a flat rim along the bottom so whatever you end up gluing, just makes sure its flat

 

[muscleflex]

thanks for the reply. and yes, it's a flat piece (to help maintain the curve shape i guess?)

i've not progress much on the 3d printer idea. i've not had a chance to speak to the head of the dept that has the 3d printer. but i shall let me know when i have :cool

 

[dubean33]

Cant wait buddy, that'd be so cool. Good luck on your build though!

 

[mike8213]

Sorry, I'm still fairly new to all of this so I'm probably asking a retarded question. For very small folds, I don't even cut or mess with them. I don't use the Join Adjacent Edges but if it looks tiny, I just leave it alone. Also, mountain and valley folds in like 90% of the time are interchangeable. Like Part #24 on War Machine HD helmet, doing the central folds to create the curve it doesn't matter (other than smoothness in the end) if the peices are glued to the inside or the outside. I get it that some peices need to be folded in certain ways to create a particular shape, but that is only true 10% of the time right?

I'm not slamming anyones work or anything, just making sure I understand all this correctly. Also, how does everyone start the project. I take each peice, like part #24, and put it together all by itself 100%. I put all the parts together 100% before I start putting them together with one another. Is this a bad practice? Should I pick a start point and put peices together as I go?

Also I am going to start from part #25 which is basically the forehead it seems. This way any imperfections in sizes of peices can be smoothed towards the sides of the peice, still allowing for a more symetrical final helmet. So I will start with part #25, and do the entire center line, then start working down the sides.

I'm just wondering if this is a smart idea, or if there are better ways at going about all this stuff.

 

[mchammertime]

@mike8213 No question is a retarded question!
1. really small folds usually don't matter, trust your judgement
2. Usually you should follow mountain/valley folds because sometimes it's really important how it goes. I'd say 90% you SHOULD pay attention.
3. You can start anywhere you want, it really doesn't matter. Also, you can go one piece at a time or make them all before glueing, its all up to you. Sometimes I like to switch it up so I don't get bored. I usually try to start with a major piece that will hold the structure of the whole thing. For a helmet, I usually start with the top and build the model upside down, for instance.

 

[downertool]

I need help please - currently trying to finish my war machine first ever pepakura... but i've hit a snag.
the back of the helmet.. i've included a photo. the middle is indented. and this piece that i have a problem with, it's a valley fold but it doesn't make sense as valley fold won't attach it to the corresponding piece because valley fold tabs would just lie on top point away from the piece it needs to attach to.
sorry it's hard to describe.
i was wondering if this is a mistake and it should really be a mountain fold?

I recently completed the helmet so I know what area you're talking about. the mountain/valley fold area you are on is more of an error at that center area. If you zoom in close on the 2D menus of that piece, you will see a very small fold. Ignore that mountain fold and just attatch the edge piece to it. Make those valley folds (1450, 1442, 1441, etc.) into mountain folds and continue as planned.

 

[muscleflex]

thank you very much! i've not done much to the helmet since (well, i started on the jaw part instead but not done a great deal). i'll start on the helmet again either tonight or this weekend. there's so many small pieces that's daunting to look at hence makes me just put it down and watch tv instead.

care to post pics of your helmet?

did you do the HD eye piece inside as well?

 

[muscleflex]

I'm exactly like you - confused! haha. this is my first pep... probably not a good model to start but i wanted warmachine.
i started with the face plate as i thought once i've done that, i can make sense of what it will look like.
with this war machine tho, i think there's some bits that you need to start on first to make things easier. i'm not finished with mine yet but a couple of parts i have found that would have made it easier if i started inside:
eye piece
jaw sides

hopefully i'll get this model finished by christmas! lol
i'll post pics of what i've done so far in a bit or tonight. i think i have a couple of shots on my phone.

Sorry, I'm still fairly new to all of this so I'm probably asking a retarded question. For very small folds, I don't even cut or mess with them. I don't use the Join Adjacent Edges but if it looks tiny, I just leave it alone. Also, mountain and valley folds in like 90% of the time are interchangeable. Like Part #24 on War Machine HD helmet, doing the central folds to create the curve it doesn't matter (other than smoothness in the end) if the peices are glued to the inside or the outside. I get it that some peices need to be folded in certain ways to create a particular shape, but that is only true 10% of the time right?

I'm not slamming anyones work or anything, just making sure I understand all this correctly. Also, how does everyone start the project. I take each peice, like part #24, and put it together all by itself 100%. I put all the parts together 100% before I start putting them together with one another. Is this a bad practice? Should I pick a start point and put peices together as I go?

Also I am going to start from part #25 which is basically the forehead it seems. This way any imperfections in sizes of peices can be smoothed towards the sides of the peice, still allowing for a more symetrical final helmet. So I will start with part #25, and do the entire center line, then start working down the sides.

I'm just wondering if this is a smart idea, or if there are better ways at going about all this stuff.

 

[muscleflex]

oh also.. i'm using 160 weight paper.
90 or 120 felt too flimsy to me so i went with 160

 

[n1njqch1cken]

@mike8213 No question is a retarded question!
1. really small folds usually don't matter, trust your judgement
2. Usually you should follow mountain/valley folds because sometimes it's really important how it goes. I'd say 90% you SHOULD pay attention.
3. You can start anywhere you want, it really doesn't matter. Also, you can go one piece at a time or make them all before glueing, its all up to you. Sometimes I like to switch it up so I don't get bored. I usually try to start with a major piece that will hold the structure of the whole thing. For a helmet, I usually start with the top and build the model upside down, for instance.

regarding the upside down helmet thing, i usually start from bottom so i have nice, stable base and something it can rest on nicely, although i can see the ease in building it upside down

 

[DR4296]

I'm not slamming anyones work or anything, just making sure I understand all this correctly. Also, how does everyone start the project. I take each peice, like part #24, and put it together all by itself 100%. I put all the parts together 100% before I start putting them together with one another. Is this a bad practice? Should I pick a start point and put peices together as I go?

If I had to do it all over again, after I got the three separate pieces of the helmet made, I'd glue them all together, then resin and rondo them, then split them back apart with my dremel.

I stupidly treated them as separate pieces and then had problems joining them coherently. I hadn't realized that I was leaving my faceplate way too wide, to the point where I looked somewhat like a ninja turtle. I had told myself I'd try sanding the "wings" on the faceplate down a bit to help narrow them, if I had time. But I simply didn't have time to do it. (I'd already made the helmet twice; the first time it was too small.)

 

[muscleflex]

for those who have finished the war machine helmet... can you tell me how the jaw pieces attach to the rest of the helmet? i can't see how it attaches. i have the 2 small side jaw pieces but i just can't see on pepakura viewer how it attaches to the main helmet?

i don't know if it's possible to explode the 3d diagram on pepakura..

 

[downertool]

ill see about getting some pics up. once you finish the jaw you will see how it attaches, i glued it to the main part of the helmet tho. i did not use the eyepiece, other than the center bridge over the nose.

you can explode the view under the 3d menu... view setup.

 

[FGC]

maan, I cant download the HD war machine pep file, It seems to be broken :S

 

[gduck24]

So this is my first pep too... All in all it's gone smooth but the chin strap, mo-hawk, two lower pieces of the back of the helmet, and ear piece details do not glue together by tab and number? I assume you need to glue these on separate? Also, helmet size i used was 1.0, but the different files for the armor all have much different scales as default. Is that so it actually matches up with human size, instead of cgi iron man? Just wondering before I dump a huge amount of time on the remaining armor.

 

[DR4296]

So this is my first pep too... All in all it's gone smooth but the chin strap, mo-hawk, two lower pieces of the back of the helmet, and ear piece details do not glue together by tab and number? I assume you need to glue these on separate? Also, helmet size i used was 1.0, but the different files for the armor all have much different scales as default. Is that so it actually matches up with human size, instead of cgi iron man? Just wondering before I dump a huge amount of time on the remaining armor.

Yes, all those pieces glue together. No tab-and-number connections for them. And yes, you'll have to play with the scale. I had to make mine TWICE, adding 10% the second time, but that made the size perfect for me. Still, given the complexity of the pep, it is a huge pain to have to make it twice.

 

[downertool]

for the mohawk i hot glued it on around the edge of the base, then cut 3 holes in the underside (think ladder) through both layers so i could get some rondo in there.

with scaling i took 2 bookends and then put my head in between, ear to ear, measured the distance then added 5mm. then just add in the width in the pep scaling.