Shameless plug for titlewave cause I love his simplicity and how he made the stls for alot of stuff super easy to use and slicewhere did u get the files for the tacCase from?
i asked for the tac case, not the tac pad xd but found it in his store, thx alot <3 :3Shameless plug for titlewave cause I love his simplicity and how he made the stls for alot of stuff super easy to use and slice
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1580329224/mc5-tac-pad-arm-attachment-3d-print-file?crt=1&sts=1
I never thought to use epoxy with the screw but even then using e6000 with the screw might work to secure it?? I might try that. Unless epoxy is better in the long run?2 part epoxy is your best bet for making sure they stay secured. I agree with adding a screw/pin/dowel connecting the 2 in addition to the epoxy to prevent shearing!
epoxy will be better in the longer run. e600 is a more flexible adhesive meant for attaching "Soft" parts to "hard" parts.I never thought to use epoxy with the screw but even then using e6000 with the screw might work to secure it?? I might try that. Unless epoxy is better in the long run?
Just ordered some cause I just broke my knife with e6000 attached on it and that reenforces your point fully hahaepoxy will be better in the longer run. e600 is a more flexible adhesive meant for attaching "Soft" parts to "hard" parts.
Ex: strap to printed/foam piece
Epoxy is a "Hard" to "hard" part attachment and will have the most durable bond between the 2.
This is gonna be sickThe Shoulders have been a big challenge. Both sides weight about 2.5lbs and no glue would hold the pieces on, so I used screws which actually worked fantastic. It will also be nice cause I can swap out different shoulder pieces or just skip them all together and just have 2 simple holes that no one really sees. When making the harness, I will be using the screws as a focal point of contact where I have a hole in the cording and it will be X shaped sewn together so that it holds on both screws. maybe even X with a _ under it like a bridge.
The knife has faux leather glued on, I will be weathering it a little later for the black in between leather. It was initially magnetized but I had a slight issue where you could see the magnet, and also couldn't remove it from the magnet it was to strong.
The dragon shoulder was a PAIN for painting / bondo, I gave up after the 25th coat, it is next to unnoticed for one cut line. Besides that, if anyone has tips on how to travel and keep the horns safe, would love to know, they're slightly sharp tipped and might snap.
The Shoulders:
Right:
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Left:
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These are my biggest struggle, I added clips with epoxy for the top and will be adding elastic for the bottom connection, I have no idea how to secure these to me, and I need some suggestions. I saw someone say use velcro but is it attached to the top, top and bottom or both sides etc. I need a reference haha They will be padded later though just need more 10mm /5mm foam.
The shins:
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I need to know should I stay open thigh gang or add the foam for the wrap around? Let me know thoughts! This one also took over 20 coats and I gave up on the singular line issue on one side and just weathered it lol
The Thighs:
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Also if anyone has foam patterns for shoes / the knee pads, I would appreciate links! I decided to not attach the 3D print of those as they are too heavy!!
The shins are a little big on me and I am hoping that I can either use some foam to fix that / I will reprint them at a later date in a more accurate size. I redid my shins multiple times and the knee pieces about 8 times total before I was happy with them. It was a big eye opener for how hard armory can be to use when your adjustments aren't perfect / adding in clothes etc.Following your build now since I’m printing my Reach armor as well! Stuff’s looking really good. For the knees I saw someone use an elastic band to keep the kneecaps against the leg, but I have yet to get a shin printed that fits me so I can’t tackle that yet. I’m super intimidated by the undersuit. What are you planning for that?