here's another one for ya. I've been having a problem with my pep armor splitting & tearing at the edge seams. Seems like there's a helluva lot of stress points on the edges, even when they're bondo-ed and coated in rubber. So I thought that it'd be a wise idea to reinforce the seams & bought drywall joint tape. It's the nylon mesh tape that you can get a hold of at home depot for about $7.50 a roll. You can't tear it with your fingers so i'm thinking that this stuff should do a magnificent job of holding the seams together even if the fiberglass cracks over the top of it. I've got the belt and the left thigh curing right now so we'll see how well this stuff holds up very soon.
Have A Question? Dont Bother With A Thread
- Thread starter BlacRoseImmortal
- Start date
- Status
ok 1st off im a new member (this is an awsom forum im os glad i joined)
anyway, me and 2 of my friends have started making armor. one of my friends is making a low-def mark VI and me and my other friend are making the WETA odst. we are almost finished with the helmets and are going to fiberglass them tomorow. we used scotch tape and we read somewhere that the scotch tape can desolve and it will turn into a mess. should i put something on the outside to stop that from hapening (like glueing it or wraping it in something).
also i looked at this thread --> link <-- and i saw how the sweet the helmet worked. i also heard about using bondo. what is the difrence of using bondo and sculpting putty??? like is one easyer or beter than the others???.
o and im also making a battle rifle out of wood. it looks awsome. ill see if i can make a thread when im done so u all can see it ;D
anyway, me and 2 of my friends have started making armor. one of my friends is making a low-def mark VI and me and my other friend are making the WETA odst. we are almost finished with the helmets and are going to fiberglass them tomorow. we used scotch tape and we read somewhere that the scotch tape can desolve and it will turn into a mess. should i put something on the outside to stop that from hapening (like glueing it or wraping it in something).
also i looked at this thread --> link <-- and i saw how the sweet the helmet worked. i also heard about using bondo. what is the difrence of using bondo and sculpting putty??? like is one easyer or beter than the others???.
o and im also making a battle rifle out of wood. it looks awsome. ill see if i can make a thread when im done so u all can see it ;D
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ztrain @ Oct 25 2008, 11:10 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div><div class='quotemain'>ok 1st off im a new member (this is an awsom forum im os glad i joined)
anyway, me and 2 of my friends have started making armor. one of my friends is making a low-def mark VI and me and my other friend are making the WETA odst. we are almost finished with the helmets and are going to fiberglass them tomorow. we used scotch tape and we read somewhere that the scotch tape can desolve and it will turn into a mess. should i put something on the outside to stop that from hapening (like glueing it or wraping it in something).
also i looked at this thread --> link <-- and i saw how the sweet the helmet worked. i also heard about using bondo. what is the difrence of using bondo and sculpting putty??? like is one easyer or beter than the others???.
o and im also making a battle rifle out of wood. it looks awsome. ill see if i can make a thread when im done so u all can see it ;D</div>
i've used scotch tape before on long joints and have had a love/hate relationship with it ever since. it doesn't dissolve per say, but if you aren't careful and do not have an excellent bond with the cardstock, the resin can cause the adhesive to lose its cohesion, in other words it will cease to hold your joint. just make sure that if you do have tape (especially on the outside) go very slowly and start at the middle of the tape strips. Also make sure that you coat the inside of your parts as the double fiberglass layer creates a more resilient media. multiple coats on the edges help out a lot too! I'd also recommend using super glue instead of scotch tape. i'm almost done with the full suit and have only gone through about 3 bottles of gorilla super glue. The nice thing about this is that Gorilla's super glue is rubber (probably urethane) reinforced so it makes for a very tough anti-shock bond. High stress points will still crack depending on whether or not you scored your folds before you bent them.
BTW, i just got done with the drywall tape experiment! most of the stress points seem to hold together very well with this addition, however the points that experience a higher than average stress factor still crack, but will still hold together with the tape in place & fiberglassed over.
anyway, me and 2 of my friends have started making armor. one of my friends is making a low-def mark VI and me and my other friend are making the WETA odst. we are almost finished with the helmets and are going to fiberglass them tomorow. we used scotch tape and we read somewhere that the scotch tape can desolve and it will turn into a mess. should i put something on the outside to stop that from hapening (like glueing it or wraping it in something).
also i looked at this thread --> link <-- and i saw how the sweet the helmet worked. i also heard about using bondo. what is the difrence of using bondo and sculpting putty??? like is one easyer or beter than the others???.
o and im also making a battle rifle out of wood. it looks awsome. ill see if i can make a thread when im done so u all can see it ;D</div>
i've used scotch tape before on long joints and have had a love/hate relationship with it ever since. it doesn't dissolve per say, but if you aren't careful and do not have an excellent bond with the cardstock, the resin can cause the adhesive to lose its cohesion, in other words it will cease to hold your joint. just make sure that if you do have tape (especially on the outside) go very slowly and start at the middle of the tape strips. Also make sure that you coat the inside of your parts as the double fiberglass layer creates a more resilient media. multiple coats on the edges help out a lot too! I'd also recommend using super glue instead of scotch tape. i'm almost done with the full suit and have only gone through about 3 bottles of gorilla super glue. The nice thing about this is that Gorilla's super glue is rubber (probably urethane) reinforced so it makes for a very tough anti-shock bond. High stress points will still crack depending on whether or not you scored your folds before you bent them.
BTW, i just got done with the drywall tape experiment! most of the stress points seem to hold together very well with this addition, however the points that experience a higher than average stress factor still crack, but will still hold together with the tape in place & fiberglassed over.
I just got finished with my first MKVI suit and i was wondering:
Are you supposed to have total freedom of movement with the high def torso? or are your arms supposed to stop at 90° dead ahead? The reason why i ask is because i had to basically scale the torso up so that it would fit around my mid section (i still had to bridge it) because i guess i'm barrel chested - 39". Anyway, i just posted up the finished work in the hall of honor section of the molded armor discussion so i guess those of you with more experience'll have to tell me so that when i do this again i'll be able to do it right. Thanks!
Are you supposed to have total freedom of movement with the high def torso? or are your arms supposed to stop at 90° dead ahead? The reason why i ask is because i had to basically scale the torso up so that it would fit around my mid section (i still had to bridge it) because i guess i'm barrel chested - 39". Anyway, i just posted up the finished work in the hall of honor section of the molded armor discussion so i guess those of you with more experience'll have to tell me so that when i do this again i'll be able to do it right. Thanks!
AngryAsianMan
New Member
Hello hello.
I'm sort of confused with a particular process.
After you bondo, whats the step after that? Is there anything in particular that you must apply on bondo before painting other than primer?
I'm ready for painting and I have the appropriate primers for my paints, but am I missing anything or should I continue to paint?
One more thing, is Krylon a good choice for bondo?
I'm sort of confused with a particular process.
After you bondo, whats the step after that? Is there anything in particular that you must apply on bondo before painting other than primer?
I'm ready for painting and I have the appropriate primers for my paints, but am I missing anything or should I continue to paint?
One more thing, is Krylon a good choice for bondo?
UNSC Leatherneck
Well-Known Member
Primer should be fine. Just make sure the primered surface is smooth, as the quality of the final finish depends on the quality of the surface to start. Paint will show any imperfections. I think you'll be fine with Krylon, as well.AngryAsianMan said:
Last edited by a moderator:
AngryAsianMan
New Member
One last thing. Can water ruin bondo?
adventchildmatrix
Well-Known Member
can anyone talk me through on how to scale the hayabusa helmet from the wiki so i can wear it?
AngryAsianMan
New Member
I was thinking more along the lines of wiping bondo with a wet rag or towel. Not recommended?
box o crayons
Sr Member
about the hayabusa it has the top spike on it so you need to add like 4-5 centimeters to your head size. and if im not mistacken ppl will wet sand it so it should be fine
BlacRoseImmortal
Well-Known Member
AngryAsianMan said:
Wet towels are just fine, no worries with the bondo. Just smooth your bondo, primer, and paint :]
Last edited by a moderator:
adventchildmatrix
Well-Known Member
to scale the boots do you measure the shoes ur going to wear then add about a cm?
adventchildmatrix
Well-Known Member
thxtlither said:
Last edited by a moderator:
I hope this is the right spot to ask this. If not Im sorry, Ive been all over the threads and cant seem to find anything about it. I just finished my HD chest and I need to know should I be able to slide it on over my head like a shirt or does it require me to cut it after fiberglassing into two peices and use a velcro or buckle system to hold it together? Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
DreadMullet
Well-Known Member
is there a casting resin that dries Clear? or semi transparent?
Ral Partha
Sr Member
There is one by Smooth-On but it's for industrial use and not meant for home use.DreadMullet said:
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
