"Help!" for: Electronics
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Revenant1988
Active Member
I thought about that but I'd prefer not to put that much weight in my helmet. Space could also rule that out. The nice thing about doing it that way is I would just wire my LEDS into that supply with the proper resistors and a second slide switch (so lights and fan are independent) so that keeps it on the table.
What about a 2-3 small 12v batteries in parallel? My concern with the small 12v batteries is just their life span. I mean, they are so small I can't imagine them powering a fan for more than a few minuets. I just can't find a 12v battery that isn't really small or really big
Where my goldilocks battery at!?
Carpathia
Sr Member
It really doesn't add any noticeable weight to my helmet, and the battery packs are positioned in the back ridge of my MK VI helmet. Of course the space WOULD be determined by the type of helmet, so that's a factor. And the way you describe the circuit, with the fans hooked up, and the LEDs as well with the proper resistors with separate and independent switches, is exactly how I have my helmet wired; all coming off the two battery packs.
Skullptura
Member
This thread is relevant to my interests....
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Reventant, the 12V battery you are thinking of is an A23 type. Is basically some button cell batteries stacked together in a casing. Not very useful for running a fan.
Wiki gives it a lifespan of 55mAh, lame. By comparison, a 9V battery has a lifespan of 560mAh and AAA are 1200mAh.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes
If you want the BEST weight to power ratio, can pick up a lithium rechargeable pack from here. You will need a few in series to reach 12 volts. Lithium does have a tendency to burst into flames when used improperly, so... watch out for that.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9876
Edit,
Here is a ~12V battery lithium ready to go. Just add a compatible charger and wire harness connector for your helmet. Weighs 6 ounces.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/hobby-people-11-1v-2200mah-20c-lipo-battery-pack-w-t-conn.html
Wiki gives it a lifespan of 55mAh, lame. By comparison, a 9V battery has a lifespan of 560mAh and AAA are 1200mAh.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_battery_sizes
If you want the BEST weight to power ratio, can pick up a lithium rechargeable pack from here. You will need a few in series to reach 12 volts. Lithium does have a tendency to burst into flames when used improperly, so... watch out for that.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9876
Edit,
Here is a ~12V battery lithium ready to go. Just add a compatible charger and wire harness connector for your helmet. Weighs 6 ounces.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/index.php/hobby-people-11-1v-2200mah-20c-lipo-battery-pack-w-t-conn.html
SpartanT117
Well-Known Member
I had this crazy idea... speaking of arduinos again...could it be possible to wirelessly switch on all the lights in my suit with an arduino?
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Revenant1988
Active Member
Fire = bad!
Simple 12v = good!
Haha thanks for this, I wouldn't have thought about a hobby battery. I'll check them out!
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Two parts. An arduino is a bit overkill. Your system would need an input, something to detect the wireless remote, and an output, something to switch the suit lights on / off. Can use a relay to switch everything on / off.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/OUAZ-SH-105L,405
This one looks good, cheap, 5V control voltage, can switch on /off up to 1Amp. More than enough for your suit.
Now for the wireless remote. Need a detector system that runs at a reasonable battery voltage. I mean, they make 12V ones (automotive and computer usage), but I try not to recommend 12V solutions to people.
http://www.outletpc.com/c7235.html
Here we go, I found something. Has a relay built in, and runs on 5V. Perfect for switching on / off your batttery powered LEDs. The remote is labeled lock / unlock, but that is common with these little key-remotes. The description says the output is latching, that means that press button 1 for ON, press button 2 for OFF.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1CH-5V-DC-REMOTE-CONTROL-RELAY-SWITCH-5VDC-OUTPUT-/120792881811
I might pick one up for myself too, halloween is coming up. heh.
edit: scratch that, I did buy one. This looks cool
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SpartanT117
Well-Known Member
well I was thinking, how long would it take to manually turn on each and every light? that would be a butthurt, in contrast to how cool would it be to press a button on the cheek inside of your helm and turn all of your lights on at (relatively) the same time? awe-inspiring to the rubies fanatics. 8)
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all my lights are one switch
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thatdecade
Well-Known Member
The lag between pressing the buttons and lights turning on would be small. Same as using a remote to unlock your car doors. Fraction of a second lag.
SpartanT117
Well-Known Member
and still would be so totally amazing... thanks so much for your sage electronical wisdom.
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This is kind of a less specific question. I am trying to make light up eyes for a pepakura mask which has little space to work with in terms of frontal area. What I want to do is make the eyes glow but keep things visible when I wear it. I was thinking of a light silver film with leds like on these http://www.goglospex.com/ but I do not have the room to make some sort of side projection. Is there a way to illuminate from inside without basically blinding myself?
I couldn't think of where else to ask about this I think I can wire it up with 2-4 LEDs and wire the power source at the back of the neck/helm area. Just not sure on the actual construction.
Another question I have been looking into LEDs that I can use to line a "Power" Weapon but I really do not want it to have an un-even lighting along the edge. Is there some alternative to using LED string lights?
I couldn't think of where else to ask about this I think I can wire it up with 2-4 LEDs and wire the power source at the back of the neck/helm area. Just not sure on the actual construction.
Another question I have been looking into LEDs that I can use to line a "Power" Weapon but I really do not want it to have an un-even lighting along the edge. Is there some alternative to using LED string lights?
Skullptura
Member
Has anyone considered using the lights that come on a flexible strip? The led lights are tiny little squares and you can cut the strip to whatever length you need. You just solder wires onto the end of the strip to bateries and switch. They might be able to do the lighting around a visor to make it glow. Like the NCR Helmet Visor from fallout that glows red. Don't rightly know the colour range myself but the idea was suggested to me at a local electronics shop. So im looking into these light strips. I'll post my findings here. Might be a while though....
Yeah I was thinking EL Strips but that would be more for my armor itself. Not really sure about using it for lenses or something of that sort.
Here is example of a fellow 40k cosplayer's use of EL Strips.
http://z6.invisionfree.com/Obscurus_Crusade/index.php?showtopic=509&st=60
As for the directional I think I can maybe figure that out and get it to work. I might just buy a pair of GloSpex and see what I can do. If anything I can rip out the lenses and work it from there.
Here is example of a fellow 40k cosplayer's use of EL Strips.
http://z6.invisionfree.com/Obscurus_Crusade/index.php?showtopic=509&st=60
As for the directional I think I can maybe figure that out and get it to work. I might just buy a pair of GloSpex and see what I can do. If anything I can rip out the lenses and work it from there.
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
How to do iron man style light up eyes.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Iron-Man-Helmet/step9/Lighting-Up-The-Eyes/
Yes, you would be blinded a little. Like mention by others, wrap the led in black tape. In addition, use a marker or paint to black out the inside lens where your led is pointing. You want to block light from all the "hot spots" internally.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Iron-Man-Helmet/step9/Lighting-Up-The-Eyes/
Yes, you would be blinded a little. Like mention by others, wrap the led in black tape. In addition, use a marker or paint to black out the inside lens where your led is pointing. You want to block light from all the "hot spots" internally.
DrZoidberg
New Member
Hey i just found this web site and i was wondering What are your thoughts on eva foam for making armor /guns for halo stuff?
DrZoidberg
New Member
Also i was wondering if i were to use foam to make a halo 3 ar and was to put on an ammo counter, how would i go about wiring because it is very hard to cut out the inside of a whole object if i decided to carve from a whole peice. But if i do go and build it peice by peice it shouldent be a problem
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Sorry, i dont have an answer for your general questions, but for the electronics you would leave gaps between the foam to run wires, straws work well. Alternately, you can sandwich the electronics and wires early in the build, during the gluing stage of the foam.
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