"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
- Thread starter 23Magnum
- Start date
- Status
Caboose vs Grif
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S737
I suggest you take apart an old motorcycle helmet and use the inside padding to put on the inside of the helmet. Or if your a cheapskate like me (lol not really) you could use foam sponges (the kind you wash your car with).
Carpathia
Sr Member
This has been asked before, and someone tried it out with disastrous results as I recall. It's best to do what Caboose vs Grif suggested above. If you're interested, check out this post in my Mk VI build...
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33640-**Yet-Another-Halo-3-Build-Carpathia-s-Mk-VI-Armor-(Lots-of-Pics!)?p=620183#post620183
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Boys and girls - a bit of advice for you who are just starting out. I've done two helmets now and have learned heaps doing them.
A big one to remember is to STOP LOOKING FOR SHORT-CUTS and THE EASY WAY OUT!
There are a lot of guys who have tired and failed, but you can easily see on this forum the tried and tested methods that WORK. Sure, I'm all for finding better ways to do things, but if it's your first time and you're not terribly handy, then stick to the common methods.
Another thing that will save you a lot of frustration and work -
Get the Pepakura stage PERFECT before starting to resin. Support your helmet, whatever it takes - measure it, stuff it with newspaper, put an old football in it, make struts, measure it again, glue on little temporary joiner tabs to hold things while you are hardening then cut them off after. Spend as much time as you need to get the SHAPE right, even and symmetrical BEFORE you start hardening. You will save a lot of time and wastage of materials later if you get this first part right.
Trust me - I blew my first one too by taking shortcuts.
A big one to remember is to STOP LOOKING FOR SHORT-CUTS and THE EASY WAY OUT!
There are a lot of guys who have tired and failed, but you can easily see on this forum the tried and tested methods that WORK. Sure, I'm all for finding better ways to do things, but if it's your first time and you're not terribly handy, then stick to the common methods.
Another thing that will save you a lot of frustration and work -
Get the Pepakura stage PERFECT before starting to resin. Support your helmet, whatever it takes - measure it, stuff it with newspaper, put an old football in it, make struts, measure it again, glue on little temporary joiner tabs to hold things while you are hardening then cut them off after. Spend as much time as you need to get the SHAPE right, even and symmetrical BEFORE you start hardening. You will save a lot of time and wastage of materials later if you get this first part right.
Trust me - I blew my first one too by taking shortcuts.
Carpathia
Sr Member
I agree totally with this and would like to add in one more thing, and this goes along with the "STOP LOOKING FOR SHORT-CUTS" statement. If the helmet has a visor and/or support struts designed into the pep model, PEP THEM! I've seen a lot of people leave out visors and struts only to have the helmet warp, sag or otherwise go out of shape during the resin stage when leaving in the visor/supports and cutting them away later would have saved the helmet.
Skullptura
Member
Iv'e tried making a Halo Mark VI helmet that had struts built into the pep file BIG FRIGGIN MISTAKE. IT fell apart. It was also made with the standard 80gsm Paper. I Never make a helmet with anything less than 120gsm. But a few years later I can make em. Currently working on the chest piece now.
Hello everyone, I just resined my pep model about three hours ago, the resin hasn't cured yet and I need to bring it in for the night but I don't need it to stink up the house, I think I didn't put enough hardener in it I put 6 drops for roughly two ounces thinking it would give me more work time. Could I put another coat over it and bring it in later tonight? Or did I just mess up my whole helmet?
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
I would personally try just that. I was fiberglassing the inside of my armor pieces about a month ago, and the same thing happened. Another coat should do the trick. Applying hardener directly to the affected areas will not work.
HOWEVER, it may be possible that you applied the resin too late in the day. If this is a possibility, then consider that resin needs to be at a certain temperature to harden, or the catalyzing process won't happen. This happened to me as well, and a space heater or heat gun will do the trick.
HOWEVER, it may be possible that you applied the resin too late in the day. If this is a possibility, then consider that resin needs to be at a certain temperature to harden, or the catalyzing process won't happen. This happened to me as well, and a space heater or heat gun will do the trick.
Skullptura
Member
Try getting your hands on a radial heater. Like the model they use in Myth Busters when they heat up adams car for the biscuit dough experiment.
Six is not enough. It's 10 for "more work time" and 12-15 for "fast cure time". You can either hotbox it by sticking it and a heat gun/hairdryer in a box and monitoring it for a few hours, or maybe try laying a hot layer of resin (15 drops) over it and praying. I hope you didn't end up bringing it in if it smelled, because it will seep into everything.
TheSlammerss
New Member
Could someone look at my recon wip and tell me a) how badly is my bondo job stinks and how long it will be to fix it and b) what r some good techniques to apply bondo better thanks
Skullptura
Member
Thats your first build? Thats pretty damn good for your first one. It looks exactly the same as my first one did. Keep up the good work mate. My first bondo session was kind of smelly too but it went away in about 4-5 hours. But even then the scent will hang around it for a while. If you can leave it outside for a godd 24 hours. Otherwise you will wake up with a really bad headache and feeling outrageously hungry. And yes..... I'm speaking from experience....
TheSlammerss
New Member
Lol I guess I should have been clearer with the word stinks. Lol I ment it in a bad way like there's a lot glopped on and it isn't pretty any techniques to apply cleaner coats on?
A spreader is your best friend. Really you shouldn't be building OUT on the helmet, only filling in the natural gap created in the middle of each rectangle. A spreader conforms to the shape of the piece, and forces the bondo down flush with the higher parts of the piece, it's hard to explain but videos on youtube show it in action.
Some people use old credit cards, but spreaders are like 2$ for a three pack. The best part is, let the bondo dry on the spreader and then flex it, and the bondo snaps off.
Some people use old credit cards, but spreaders are like 2$ for a three pack. The best part is, let the bondo dry on the spreader and then flex it, and the bondo snaps off.
Darth Collison
New Member
I posted this in my WIP build, but I think this would be the best place to post/ask these types of questions.
Any pro-tips for the resin stage? Should I Fiberglass, then Bondo? Do I need to use fiberglass cloth or can I get away with just painting on the resin? Or should I Rondo? I just recently found out what Rondoing was... what are the benefits? Is one method better than the other in terms of quality? Is one easier to work with than the other? And lastly, is either method better in terms of casting afterwards?
Any pro-tips for the resin stage? Should I Fiberglass, then Bondo? Do I need to use fiberglass cloth or can I get away with just painting on the resin? Or should I Rondo? I just recently found out what Rondoing was... what are the benefits? Is one method better than the other in terms of quality? Is one easier to work with than the other? And lastly, is either method better in terms of casting afterwards?
Darth: Ok lets start with resin, when you goto resin the outside for the first time keep that coat light and DO NOT do the hole part. Do small areas and break the part down into sections this will stop the part from warping. When you have it totally covered in that first coat you can add another heavier coat. I usually do an extra 3rd coat as well.
Now that the outside is resined it's time to move to the inside, this is where you need to think on what you are going to do with the helm. Wear it, cast it, or what ever. If your going to wear it there are 3 methods of hardening that are good. 1) Fiberglass 2)Rondo 3)mudglassing and each one has it's pros and cons.
1) Fiberglass....you can use ether cloth or mat, cloth is good for for covering large areas and doing layers but is difficult to bend around corners with out getting air pockets. Mat is great for corners as it can be pulled apart easy. It to can be used for large areas but is messy with all it's loose strands. I recommend both, use the mat for corners and tight spots and the cloth for coverage. You'll want at least 2 layers in a part, if it's an area the might get banged around alot like a shin or around the edges of a chest peace then a extra layer or two might be a good idea.
2) Rondo...much easier to use than fiberglass, it's faster for covering the inside and takes less time and uses less product so if your on a tight budget this is a good alternative. The problem is the weight and the fact that it is brittle. Your part will weight more with rondo not a lot more but it will be noticeable if you wear the part for a long time. With being brittle if you drop it or bang it really hard there is a chance of it cracking or breaking depending on the part. Now if your going to mold the part the rondo might be the way to go, because if you sand through the paper then you sand into basically bondo so no big deal, rondo is also easier to carve in details so if molding is the end goal rondo is best.
3) Mud glassing....is both combined. You'll rondo the inside and add precut peaces to the rondo as you go thus making the rondo stronger and cutting down on the drying time. The key is to have lots of brushes and pre-cut peaces of fiberglass handy so you can work with out stopping. The down side is bondo gets hot as it dries so if you get any on your hand while inside the part and you wait to wipe it off you might get a little burn.
With any of these options think safety, make sure you have the right respirator, your work are is well vented, you have some rubber gloves to handle the fiberglass and are wearing cloths you don't mind throwing away should an accident happen.
Bondo for the outside is used to smooth out the ruff areas and correct any imperfections that might happen. The outside is totally up to you, you can paint the resin and wear it if your happy with the way the part looks. Or you can use the bondo to create the look you want. Just like resin keep you coats of bondo light and do small areas of the part at a time. This will cut down on all the sanding you have to do. If you cover the hole part or large areas (unless it's a large area your trying to fix) you'll spend a ton of time sanding most of it off.
I hope this helps and if you have any more questions drop me a pm and I'll do my best to help.
Now that the outside is resined it's time to move to the inside, this is where you need to think on what you are going to do with the helm. Wear it, cast it, or what ever. If your going to wear it there are 3 methods of hardening that are good. 1) Fiberglass 2)Rondo 3)mudglassing and each one has it's pros and cons.
1) Fiberglass....you can use ether cloth or mat, cloth is good for for covering large areas and doing layers but is difficult to bend around corners with out getting air pockets. Mat is great for corners as it can be pulled apart easy. It to can be used for large areas but is messy with all it's loose strands. I recommend both, use the mat for corners and tight spots and the cloth for coverage. You'll want at least 2 layers in a part, if it's an area the might get banged around alot like a shin or around the edges of a chest peace then a extra layer or two might be a good idea.
2) Rondo...much easier to use than fiberglass, it's faster for covering the inside and takes less time and uses less product so if your on a tight budget this is a good alternative. The problem is the weight and the fact that it is brittle. Your part will weight more with rondo not a lot more but it will be noticeable if you wear the part for a long time. With being brittle if you drop it or bang it really hard there is a chance of it cracking or breaking depending on the part. Now if your going to mold the part the rondo might be the way to go, because if you sand through the paper then you sand into basically bondo so no big deal, rondo is also easier to carve in details so if molding is the end goal rondo is best.
3) Mud glassing....is both combined. You'll rondo the inside and add precut peaces to the rondo as you go thus making the rondo stronger and cutting down on the drying time. The key is to have lots of brushes and pre-cut peaces of fiberglass handy so you can work with out stopping. The down side is bondo gets hot as it dries so if you get any on your hand while inside the part and you wait to wipe it off you might get a little burn.
With any of these options think safety, make sure you have the right respirator, your work are is well vented, you have some rubber gloves to handle the fiberglass and are wearing cloths you don't mind throwing away should an accident happen.
Bondo for the outside is used to smooth out the ruff areas and correct any imperfections that might happen. The outside is totally up to you, you can paint the resin and wear it if your happy with the way the part looks. Or you can use the bondo to create the look you want. Just like resin keep you coats of bondo light and do small areas of the part at a time. This will cut down on all the sanding you have to do. If you cover the hole part or large areas (unless it's a large area your trying to fix) you'll spend a ton of time sanding most of it off.
I hope this helps and if you have any more questions drop me a pm and I'll do my best to help.
Darth Collison
New Member
Thank you so much for that in depth reply! I greatly appreciate it!
- Status
