No Bondo will work alone. What he means is that you can use BondoGlass to create a stronger than usual Rondo.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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No Bondo will work alone. What he means is that you can use BondoGlass to create a stronger than usual Rondo.
Starvinartist80
Well-Known Member
Yep, just remember it will take a bit more material to cover the same piece of armor. But for me it is worth the extra. The strength is great.
SpartanGirl
New Member
I've heard you can substitute the fiberglass mat for old cotton tshirts, is that true? what kind of strength does that offer compared to fiberglass matting?
Roadkiller
Well-Known Member
Yes, and it's not as strong.
SpartanGirl
New Member
how much weaker is it? I was going to rondo it and add the tshirt method. would that work?
Roadkiller
Well-Known Member
You want a percentage of strength number?
It depends on the grade of fibreglass mat or cloth you are comparing it to, the amount of resin used, how many coats of each you use, etc. Then I would need a machine to test the tearing strenght
I've only ever seen the "t-shirt method" used when I was a kid and watched my uncle doing some auto-body repairs. He used a t-**** because he had one and didn't have any "glass" around. Given the price of a cotton t-shirt, it's not significantly cheaper than getting proper fibre-glass.
Use the "search" function at the upper right to see if anyone has used it around here for costuming.
It depends on the grade of fibreglass mat or cloth you are comparing it to, the amount of resin used, how many coats of each you use, etc. Then I would need a machine to test the tearing strenght
I've only ever seen the "t-shirt method" used when I was a kid and watched my uncle doing some auto-body repairs. He used a t-**** because he had one and didn't have any "glass" around. Given the price of a cotton t-shirt, it's not significantly cheaper than getting proper fibre-glass.
Use the "search" function at the upper right to see if anyone has used it around here for costuming.
The Engage
Jr Member
Another question guys lol Do I want to bondo a whole piece of armor or do I want to just bondo over certain areas (like seems and uneven areas)? Because right now I'm bondoing everything, and if I don't have to do that well, that would be awesome news.
You don't need Bondo where you don't need Bondo.
Tyefighter1
New Member
Does Bondo hold well to paper? Like paper mache?
Paper maché is probably not a hard enough base. Bondo will stick to it, but if the material underneath bends, it will crack.
Whatever your reasons are for using paper maché: Resin is better. It's well worth the extra money, and you'll have all the safety equipment because of your Bondo anyway, so no additional cost or danger there.
It sticks to paper like honey to bees. You can never separate bondo once it is dried.
Starvinartist80
Well-Known Member
If you are using paper mache, you MUST use a method to harden the interior of the piece. Rondo will stick well on the inside but the paper mache will have too much flexability. I would say that you really need the strength of fiberglass to compensate for the instability of paper mache. If you do that then yes, bondo will stick very well to the outside.
Tyefighter1
New Member
I know resin is a better hardener but I am working on ways to use paper mache to harden or something else because it's both cheaper and not dangerous to work with. But I won't waste bondo till I figure it out.
Bondo is just polyester resin with other stuff mixed in, so if you're avoiding the resin because it's dangerous, you'll have to find a replacement for Bondo as well.
Certainly, resin is more expensive than paper maché, but the increased quality, as I said, is worth it. You're at a point right now where saving money is possible, but it's also a point where doing so will irreversably lower the quality of your prop.
Resin is really not that expensive. A gallon of resin, can cost up to $25, can build a full set of armor and more. It is also not dangerous as long as you take safety precaution. A good respirator, safety glass and disposable gloves will keep you alive.
Paper mache was discussed as an alternative. Most veterans can tell you that it is not a viable option. It is quite messy and the end result is not as strong as you would hope. Applying bondo on it will not keep it any stronger because bondo will crack when you flex it.
Tyefighter1
New Member
But not every one can use it like kids or those without a work space or even people who have a tight budget, I want to try and find a way to build armor sets without resin and all the safety equipment needed. Plus there's all those people who just don't want to go through the hassle of it. I just want to find a good alternative, so I'm doing a bit of testing with it.
Roadkiller
Well-Known Member
It's great that you are willing to test, but check around the forums to check what others have done before you do. A great deal of effort has gone in to finding the most effective and least expensive methods; resin and auto-body filler has turned out to be the most cost effective that gives a superior product. Alternatives all have down sides, but ensure you study up on them: hot glue method, wood glue method, paper mache, cardboard, duct tape, eva foam, and there are likely others.
I don't want to crush your dreams here, so try whatever you think might work. Polyester resin is the material with the best cost/performance ratio and the material that I would recommend to somebody who wants to save money. The safety equipment will be relatively expensive if you only want to make one model, but the more you build the cheaper it will be in relation to the material cost. If you try to do it even cheaper - and there are a few methods for that, too - you may be disappointed by the result or simply break it after two hours of wearing, try again and again, and in the end spend more than if you had done it right the first time.
For people who don't have a workshop, there are other (more pricey) alternatives that yield about the same result. You're pretty much screwed if you don't have a place to work at all though, because that means you can't do any sanding, which in turn means you armour will look second-rate regardless of how you harden it.
Darkrider9
Well-Known Member
I am quickly approaching the hardening stage and I've read around on how to use rondo and fiberglass, but I was wondering in your opinions.
Which is less time consuming/ easier to work with?
Which is stronger?
Which is better in the long run?
I have the materials to do both but I don't know what to pick as both methods seem to have their positives and negatives, so I'm wondering what you guys think.
Which is less time consuming/ easier to work with?
Which is stronger?
Which is better in the long run?
I have the materials to do both but I don't know what to pick as both methods seem to have their positives and negatives, so I'm wondering what you guys think.
I've completed 2 MK VIs and in the process of finishing 2 ODSTs. I think I can provide some objective opinions.
Which is less time consuming/ easier to work with?
Fiberglass is harder to work with. It is very difficult to apply fiberglass covering all areas. In order to get a strong piece, you have to cover every area with fiberglass. Depends on what fiberglass you have, you may have to apply two layers, which double the trouble.
Rondo is very easy. Mix the right amount and flush it around. Don't mix too much because rondo tends to set a lot quicker than resin alone.
Which is stronger?
Definitely fiberglass. If you mix rondo too thin, rondo will not be able to handle the stress. It will crack easily. If you mix it too thick, your armor will be too heavy. You won't see fiberglass cracking.
Which is better in the long run?
Fiberglass. I suggest you combine both. The shins of my kids' ODSTs are done with both. I mix rondo not too thick. After the rondo is dried, I apply fiberglass on large areas to prevent them from cracking. Not all edges are glassed. To prevent the edges from cracking, I apply thicker rondo on these areas.
Hope this helps.
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