"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[Roadkiller]

Don't know about the tape stuff.

On the other matter, IHMO leaving the visor out is an error. When you apply the resin it adds weight to the paper and, prior to curing, makes it wet. Therefore the during the drying process there can be a tendancy for the paper to warp into unwanted shapes. Putting the visor in helps add to the structural rididity of the helm and will lessen warping during the resin stage.

 

[cobe656]

Those were my thoughts exactly Roadkiller. I was thinking of ways to get around this but I think in the end I'll just put in the few extra pieces and cut it out with the dremel tool after wards. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Critifur]

I saw an IndyMogul video on building Halo Armor, which is what got me here, and it was mentioned quickly that the pep should be waterproofed using a clear coat before the first AquaResin coat. What sort of clear coat should be used?

I am not building Halo Armor, just armor of my own design for an alien costume. The 405th site is awesome and very helpful.

 

[llNomadll]

Greetings Elites of the 405th Community!

I am wondering if I could use Polyester Resin with Talcum Powder mixed in 1:1 ratio to get a putty to be used for smoothing out my pep work.

So instead of making rondo, Polyester Resin + Bondo (Super expensive in Singapore),
I'll just use Ralcum and start applying on the face of my plates, wait for it to harden then start filing/sanding/smoothening!

What is your advice kind sirs?

 

[Swift]

Now, I KNOW you're not really meant to keep anything that's been fiberglasse-covered, but well... my fiberglassing equipment came with a measuring cup for the fiberglass, and I'm ASSUMING there is a way to clean it, but I havn't yet discovered how. This would also be useful for the paintbrush, as I am not exactly... loaded.

Also, is there any use I can put the leftover (hardened) resin remaining in the bottom of my mixing cup?

 

[ventrue]

Greetings Elites of the 405th Community!

I am wondering if I could use Polyester Resin with Talcum Powder mixed in 1:1 ratio to get a putty to be used for smoothing out my pep work.

So instead of making rondo, Polyester Resin + Bondo (Super expensive in Singapore),
I'll just use Ralcum and start applying on the face of my plates, wait for it to harden then start filing/sanding/smoothening!

What is your advice kind sirs?

I don't know about talcum, but you can definitely make your own body filler if you mix the resin with microballs sor something like that. Shops that sell materials for making reinforced plastic usually have something like that.

Now, I KNOW you're not really meant to keep anything that's been fiberglasse-covered, but well... my fiberglassing equipment came with a measuring cup for the fiberglass, and I'm ASSUMING there is a way to clean it, but I havn't yet discovered how. This would also be useful for the paintbrush, as I am not exactly... loaded.

Also, is there any use I can put the leftover (hardened) resin remaining in the bottom of my mixing cup?

You can dissolve resin with Acetone as long as it's not hard. After that, it can only be removed mechanically.

 

[llNomadll]

Greetings Elites of the 405th Community!

I am wondering if I could use Polyester Resin with Talcum Powder mixed in 1:1 ratio to get a putty to be used for smoothing out my pep work.

So instead of making rondo, Polyester Resin + Bondo (Super expensive in Singapore),
I'll just use Ralcum and start applying on the face of my plates, wait for it to harden then start filing/sanding/smoothening!

What is your advice kind sirs?

I don't know about talcum, but you can definitely make your own body filler if you mix the resin with microballs sor something like that. Shops that sell materials for making reinforced plastic usually have something like that.

You can dissolve resin with Acetone as long as it's not hard. After that, it can only be removed mechanically.

After much much digging the internet (very hard to find) I found out a few things.

Quoted from http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=25219
"... I think the typical filler in bondo is talc so you can essentially tailor it to your needs by adding more talc or resin."
"... Talc is one of the fillers it is considered a premium filler. A premium product with 100% talc typicaly cost 4 times as much as regular bondo ... ... However for filling small inferfestions it is well worth the extra expense it cures fast 5 minutes as apposed to 20 and it sands easily with less loading of the sandpaper. A premium bondo such as evercoat would be excelent for filling inperfections in fabricated steel assemblies that are being painted."

Quoted from http://www.bodyshopbusiness.com/Article/4098/fill_in_the_blanks_correctly_using_fillers.aspx
"Talc - The original body fillers that replaced lead are filled with talc. Talc is hard clay that often has a fancy name like "magnesium silicate" ... ... Filler with talc isn’t waterproof because the talc wicks the moisture right through the repair... "

Quoted from http://www.homekb.com/Uwe/Forum.aspx/repair/65958/Bondo-vs-Latex-Putty
"Bondo is talc (and other minerals) added to *polyester resin* ... ...
It cures when a catalyst is added. When cured it is reasonably hard but not
as hard as plain polyester resin ... ... polyester resin isn't affected by water."

SUMMARY
From what I gather, BONDO is a two-part filler composed of 1) Talc and other minerals and 2) Polyester Resin (PR). If not for the Polyester Resin, the composite would wash away with water. In other words, I guess I'm getting CHEAP BONDO by adding 1:1 ratio of PR & Talc?

Can anybody confirm this?

P.S. Wow its been so long since I learnt so much in a day!

 

[Swift]

I don't know about talcum, but you can definitely make your own body filler if you mix the resin with microballs sor something like that. Shops that sell materials for making reinforced plastic usually have something like that.



You can dissolve resin with Acetone as long as it's not hard. After that, it can only be removed mechanically.

Much thanks my friend

 

[noble 1]

is there a way to clean resin off brushes when you are done with the resin

 

[ventrue]

SUMMARY
From what I gather, BONDO is a two-part filler composed of 1) Talc and other minerals and 2) Polyester Resin (PR). If not for the Polyester Resin, the composite would wash away with water. In other words, I guess I'm getting CHEAP BONDO by adding 1:1 ratio of PR & Talc?

No idea about the ratio (in any case, you'd have to decide on either volume or weight ratio), but basically that's right. Those microballs you mentioned are made from glass, so I guess that falls under "other minerals" ;-)

is there a way to clean resin off brushes when you are done with the resin

Just look at my last post...

 

[noble 1]

Thanks for the help

 

[Captain Hillman]

Hey all,

Just a quick question, I'm currently in the process of making a replica Guilty Spark (the annoying floating robot from Halo 3). I've used pepakura to make the middle section and I'm almost ready to resin it up. Because the centre section is essentially a closed sphere, do I just coat the cardboard in resin and that's it? This is my first build, hence why I didn't got for a whole armour set, so nice simple answers would nice

- Hillman

 

[Blaq Sin]

Apologies if this has been asked already ... i have tried searching for the answer but had no luck.

When using chopped fibre glass matting what thickness should i be using?

I am working on an iron man mark 3 build and was thinking about using the 450gram matting and then adding a second layer if required.

This armour will be used for LARP and needs to be able to withstand being struck with a foam weapon and also possibly me falling over in it

Thanks in advance.

Peace,

Q.

 

[I Heart ODST]

I made a Halo 1 Marine helmet and i cant see how to fiber glass the inside. I used double sided tape on and put all the cloth down every where. Then i dumped the resin inside and started swishing it around, but the resin was too thick and didnt move around much so i had to add from the bucket to the places i need to. I had now brushe (didnt think i needed one) so im afraid i may have warped it. Anyone have a better way to fiberglass the inside?

Also the parts where the overhang started to angle back in i couldnt get resin in there, anyone have a tip on how to get inside the pockets?

 

[eldritch2k4]

There was something I wanted to add to the safety measures from the beginning of the thread. If you are not using a full face respirator when working with resin, do NOT wear contact lenses. Soft lenses are made of porous materials that absorb stuff floating around in the air. This includes the toxins from fumes. Not only are those toxins harmful to your lungs, but also, kinda obviously, to your eyes. If you don't have a full face mask, wear glasses if you need corrective lenses. If you don't have glasses, immediately discard the contact lenses you used while doing the work. Don't attempt to clean them. Throw them out as soon as you are done working.

 

[Skullking888]

What kind of oil do you recommend?

 

[ventrue]

What kind of oil do you recommend?

What do you need oil for?

 

[Chantelle]

Pretty much anything that isn't mineral oil based. On large pieces boating oils can be cheap and easy, but on small pieces you can get away with cuticle oil.

 

[Hickeydog]

I made a Halo 1 Marine helmet and i cant see how to fiber glass the inside. I used double sided tape on and put all the cloth down every where. Then i dumped the resin inside and started swishing it around, but the resin was too thick and didnt move around much so i had to add from the bucket to the places i need to. I had now brushe (didnt think i needed one) so im afraid i may have warped it. Anyone have a better way to fiberglass the inside?

Also the parts where the overhang started to angle back in i couldnt get resin in there, anyone have a tip on how to get inside the pockets?

Easiest way to harden a helmet is to use the slush method. There's a video tutorial on slushing in the video section. http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/22923-How-To-Make-A-Helmet-From-Pep-To-Finish

Basically, you mix up Bondo Auto Filler and resin (aka, Rondo). It makes a slushy mixture with about the consistency of melted chocolate ice cream. You then add the Bondo hardener and the resin hardener, mix it up really good, and then pour the mixture into your helmet. Roll it around so you coat the entire inside of the helmet. Do a few layers of Rondo and you'll have a VERY hard helmet.

The advantages of slushing is that it's VERY fast (takes about 10 minutes to slush a helmet vs 1 hour + for fiberglass) and it gets into all the little nooks and crannies. Disadvantage is that it's a lot heaver that fiberglass.

 

[I Heart ODST]

If you look at the H-1 Marine helmet there are small hooks near the bottom if i try to slush there most might fall out andi tried slushing with only resin on fiberglass but the substance was to think and didnt slide. ill try that on my next helmet project but thanks

i also saw one about spray adhesive fiberglass and the pour the resin in the middle and fan it out with abrush.