"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[Digitalist]

2 questions
1. will fibreglass work on top of packing tape?
2. will a fibreglass spray work just as well as the cloth?

I wouldn't recommend on top of "packing tape" (or any plastic tape) - masking tape (or any paper tape) shouldn't be a problem though. I have no experience with the spray, so I have to leave that one for someone else.

Good luck with your build.

 

[Pipinacan]

I wouldn't recommend on top of "packing tape" (or any plastic tape) - masking tape (or any paper tape) shouldn't be a problem though. I have no experience with the spray, so I have to leave that one for someone else.

Good luck with your build.

you might run into a problem with tape, typically the fiberglass curing will cause the glue on the tape to heat up, and slip slide all over the place, ruining your entire work :/

 

[Digitalist]

you might run into a problem with tape, typically the fiberglass curing will cause the glue on the tape to heat up, and slip slide all over the place, ruining your entire work :/

Correction...

http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/15241-Duct-Tape-And-Fiberglass?p=247917
Basic rule with fiberglass. If you want it to hold onto something it needs to soak in. tape doesn't soak anything.
Resin works with fiberglass, cloth, nylons (the stuff that makes them ladies legs look even nicer) spandex, glass tape used in drywall joints, tennis racket grip tape....

It does NOT work with duct tape, masking tape, scotch tape, packing tape, cassette tape, VHS tape...

Get the idea?

 

[ventrue]

Hey, I'm having trouble finding a respirator. I'm not entirely sure what type I need other than that I need one that is rated for vapors. The Noob lists say that I should be able to find one for 6-10 bucks but the only ones I found that weren't just dust masks were at Lowe's for $30 and $40!! Am I looking at the wrong kind? Can anyone help clear up what kind I need? Please help me 405th!!

You'll need a respirator with organic vapour and particle combination filters.

Read this: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33426-Prop-Making-Safety-Guide

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-Medium-D..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item4aa9f29e52
(link used for example purposes only, not advertising)

This is the kind I got (harbor freight - 16 bucks) - works like a champ.

This one works, but the filter cartridges can't be exchanged, which means less flexibility for you (just in case you ever need a different filter type for something) and most likely higher costs in the long run (because you'll need a new mask once the filters need to be replaced).

2 questions
1. will fibreglass work on top of packing tape?
2. will a fibreglass spray work just as well as the cloth?

Yes, but some resins will dissolve the tape and/or the sticky stuff on it. This means: If you have some tape on top of a metal plate and you wish to add a layer of fibreglass-reinforced plastic on top, you can go right ahead with any resin you have. If you want to reinforce a paper model, however, and the tape is the only thing holding it together, you have to at least use a tape-friendly resin.

What's a fibreglass spray?

 

[Slins]

I have a real quick question, I read on other forum threads and posts that the fiber glass that is to be used is 1.42 oz for most models. Would a 3/4 oz or 2 oz fiberglass do the trick just as well? Or would these be to thin or too thick?

(I tried reading through 10-15 pages of this thread to find an answer so as to not make a nuisance of my self but I got lost... )

thanks

 

[carlino]

I have a real quick question, I read on other forum threads and posts that the fiber glass that is to be used is 1.42 oz for most models. Would a 3/4 oz or 2 oz fiberglass do the trick just as well? Or would these be to thin or too thick?

(I tried reading through 10-15 pages of this thread to find an answer so as to not make a nuisance of my self but I got lost... )

thanks

Since the fiberglass is done on the inside of the model, it doesnt matter how thick it is. The thickness will give you your durability. I think you would have to layer up the 3/4oz and 2oz to get the desired strength you would be looking for. I believe under 2oz is used for models, as in RC model cars/planes/boats since its lightweight and ok for the strength they need.

The fiberglass I ordered online is actually 8oz, I wouldnt say it's too thick at all (for armor building) and I even doubled up in some spots to get that extra strength. The fiberglass cloth you would buy in an Autozone is somewhere around that weight, maybe 6oz, but not 100% sure on that.

 

[Digitalist]

What's a fibreglass spray?

I think they are referring chopped fiberglass...
like this...

 

[plusspartan]

Wait...so do you resin the outside and then put fiberglass on the inside, then resin over the fiberglass?

 

[Pipinacan]

Wait...so do you resin the outside and then put fiberglass on the inside, then resin over the fiberglass?

yes, resin on outside to keep the shape, then fiberglass + resin the inside to harden it

 

[Naughty Lemur]

So I have a question and not sure entirely where to put it because it pertains to bondo, pepakura, and visor installation.

I want to make the MK VI helmet (is this master chiefs helmet?) and model it in the ways of steampunk. But instead of it having a visor I thought it would look more steampunk with having a visor that looks like medal (bronze is steampunk, right?) with what looks like goggles bolted or screwed onto the visor about where my eyes would be on the inside of the helmet.

placed sorta like this

Would it be easiest to make the goggles out of pep and add them in during the pepping stage or should I use goggles that are already made and just bondo over them after put into the pepped helm?

 

[plusspartan]

so as I see it...paint resin on the outside, let it dry, then put fiberglass on the inside and smear resin on it to glue it down.

Correct?

Also, what can I do if my printer can't print cardstock? Should I use regular paper? I'm afraid the helmet might collapse...

 

[Naughty Lemur]

so as I see it...paint resin on the outside, let it dry, then put fiberglass on the inside and smear resin on it to glue it down.

Correct?

Also, what can I do if my printer can't print cardstock? Should I use regular paper? I'm afraid the helmet might collapse...

You are correct. Painting the resin on the inside seals the fiberglass down.

If you're printer can't handle cardstock i would highly suggest getting a new printer or having a friend print it out for you. Regular paper is far to weak and will warp beyond belief.

 

[DenDen]

Fiberglassing Resin and Resin

Ok guys im completely lost,
Ive recently been watching Ben Streepers videos on youtube (icagonakilya) and may i just say that he is awsome, however i am a bit confused and need somebody to clear this up for me.
Up until this point i thought fiberglass and resin where the same thing, in some of his videos, Ben uses fiberglassing resin to brush the outer side of his pep model before moving on to the rondo.
Can somebody please clear this up for me. Whats the difference between fiberglassing resin and this other resin you all speak of.

 

[DR4296]

Say, I was wondering how you experienced people handle the sanding of the exterior of your resined-on-the-outside, fibered-on-the-inside peps?

Specifically, I'm wondering how many times you sand it and just "how low do you go" with your final grit #?

(It's crunch-time now for Halloween. I'm building Iron Man Mk 6. And I HATE the sanding part. But thankfully, I'm using less Bondo this year... only using it on my helmet and to round certain areas. So far, sanding once at 80-grit and then a second time at 120-grit. Wondering if I should even bother with going lower ? If the pay-off of doing that little bit extra is gonna be worth the effort ?)

 

[Draakjuh]

is there an alternative for bondo? i kinda started to hate it D:

 

[ventrue]

Whats the difference between fiberglassing resin and this other resin you all speak of.

"Fibreglass resin" is another word for polyester resin, which is just one of the many resins out there and the one most commonly used here. All of these are liquids that can permanently harden into some sort of plastic, many of them can be used for fibreglassing and none of them actually contain any glass, fibres or otherwise.

"Fibreglass" can either mean glass fibre reinforced plastic or plain glass fibres. Either way, nothing liquid.

 

[TheGimpMaster01]

I have a quick question. Apologies if it has already been asked... Here is a quick background:

I noticed that, during the summer when the temperatures were 90 deg F and up, I didn't have to use nearly as much hardener in my resin (the instructions on the brand I have is 12 drops per ounce of resin). I was using anywhere from 4-6 depending on the temperature, and that worked just fine. Now that the temperature is hovering mostly around 70 deg F and below, I am using 6-8 drops per ounce. The reason I used less than the recommended amount of hardener is because it gives me more time to work with the resin before it hardens.

My question is this: What do I do if the resin doesn't actually harden? Obviously, the future solution is to use more drops of hardener, but what is the immediate fix for not enough hardener?

Thanks

EDIT: I would just like to note that my post is the 1337th post, which is pretty 1337 if I may say so myself

 

[CoolC]

...I am using 6-8 drops per ounce. The reason I used less than the recommended amount of hardener is because it gives me more time to work with the resin before it hardens...

I would never recommend using less catalyst as recommended. You run the risk that the resin never hardens. Fixing it becomes more trouble than you need. When the temperature drops below 70 degree, you need to add more catalyst not less. To avoid having the resin hardens too quick and go to waste, you might want to mix small batches.

If the resin never hardens, I recommend that you apply another layer of resin with more catalyst to help the hardening process.

 

[TheGimpMaster01]

I would never recommend using less catalyst as recommended. You run the risk that the resin never hardens. Fixing it becomes more trouble than you need. When the temperature drops below 70 degree, you need to add more catalyst not less. To avoid having the resin hardens too quick and go to waste, you might want to mix small batches.

If the resin never hardens, I recommend that you apply another layer of resin with more catalyst to help the hardening process.

Would throwing it in the oven at the oven's minimum temperature (250 deg F) work to harden it? I know the resin hardens with temperature and paper lights up at around 420 deg F (I assume resin starts on fire at a much higher temperature...). Wait... what is this "flammable vapors" warning??? Haha. I'm only half-kidding, though.

Also, I just checked out your builds... very good work. I aspire to be as good as you at this

 

[ventrue]

I would never recommend using less catalyst as recommended. You run the risk that the resin never hardens. Fixing it becomes more trouble than you need. When the temperature drops below 70 degree, you need to add more catalyst not less. To avoid having the resin hardens too quick and go to waste, you might want to mix small batches.

If the resin never hardens, I recommend that you apply another layer of resin with more catalyst to help the hardening process.

Two additional thoughts in that direction: First, there are inhibitors that you can buy and (according to the instructions!) add to your batch to prolong its pot life without changing the amount of hardener you need. But these are rather specialised products that you will probably not find at your local Wal-Mart - you'd have to get them at a specialised store. The internet and FedEx are your friends here.

Also, Adding another layer on top obviously is not a perfect solution. It only works when you really have done nothing but brush on a faulty layer of resin. Once you add fibres or even cast something with such a batch, you're almost definitely creating trash.

Would throwing it in the oven at the oven's minimum temperature (250 deg F) work to harden it? I know the resin hardens with temperature and paper lights up at around 420 deg F (I assume resin starts on fire at a much higher temperature...). Wait... what is this "flammable vapors" warning??? Haha. I'm only half-kidding, though.

Also, I just checked out your builds... very good work. I aspire to be as good as you at this

Don't put chemicals in your oven, fridge or anywhere else where foods are stored, prepared or consumed (read: kitchen, home). Light, heat and time help polyester resin cure even without catalyst, but you probably don't want to wait that long. Don't even try to wait it out with any other type of resin, this won't work with the two-component ones.