No you don't have to use fibreglass with rondo, but you can. AceNat has done it in her Kat suit, for example. I have never seen anybody use plain Bondo with fibreglass though.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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No you don't have to use fibreglass with rondo, but you can. AceNat has done it in her Kat suit, for example. I have never seen anybody use plain Bondo with fibreglass though.
guitargod546
New Member
I'm making a pep magnum. What is the best strategy when fiberglassing the inside? Do I fiberglass it it a few parts and hot glue them together after?
Is it possible? Or would it probably look like a pile?
Never done a weapon, but my idea for when I do is to aqua-resin the outside. Then once that is dry, leave one end of it open and fill it entirely with fiberglass resin mixed with extra hardener so it dries quicker and is more solid. Would be heavy but the heavyness might make it seem more realistic.
I have no idea
I can imagine that body filler doesn't contain enough resin to fully penetrate and enclose the fibres. What you can definitely do is add chopped fibres, to some degree at least.
Adding more hardener doesn't make the finished product harder, it just speeds up the reaction, resulting in shorter curing times and more heat. Thick parts can't dissipate that heat as easily, which can cause problems.
Hello! So i've just pepped my first helmet and breastplate. In the midst of sanding my chest, it broke! Only the tape is holding it together. I have fiberglass and the resin. Should i resin/rondo it as is or mend the break? The break occured in the middle of one of the rib supports.
guitargod546
New Member
How would you go about strengthening weapons?
I've encountered breaks and tears a couple of times. I typically just tape the two pieces together (both sides) and then go over it with rondo. On one piece recently, I put fiberglass down first on the inside, for extra strength, let that dry and THEN I rondo'd over that. You can always sand a bit of it back down again, especially on the outside.
WandererTJ
Well-Known Member
Now this is assumed that your weapon will be decoration only and wont fire.
Resin your pep - do it in sections, and divide the gun up as if you were an assassin who caried his gun around in a briefcase to be assembled on location.
From here, you want to act as though there was a barrel piece that went through the entire weapon, and you want to line everything up right.
Get some pvc that will fit throughout the weapon.
Starting at the front of the gun, secure the pvc so that it lines up as stated above, and fill the first section of your gun (this will secure the pvc like a flagpole).
Then take the next resined section, and connect it to the first, and fill this section as well.
Keep doing this until you reach the end of your weapon and lastly add on the very back(the gun's butt) which should be 1 Pep piece that covers the opening.
I havent made any weapons, but this is what I would try...
WandererTJ
Well-Known Member
Bending should be fine, but if it's flimsy enough that if you were to pour liquid into it and it would cause it to mishape, then it's not good and I'm not sure what to tell you.
guitargod546
New Member
Fill with what? Resin?
I assume you play halo games, so you know what a magnum is. It doesn't have a butt and the front of the barrel is smaller than the opening. Also, "connect it to the first". Does that mean hot glue?
WandererTJ
Well-Known Member
You could fill it with Resin, I would use rondo though. The magnum is different in the fact that you should just make it all 1 piece. I was assuming you were talking about an smg, ar, br, or anything else. You'll just need to find a nice place on the gun to leave open until you are finished filling it up.
And yeah, hot glue. My method might be a little strange since it divides the weapon up, but you should be able to get it to work.
If all else fails, ask someone else or wait for someone else to reply
MetalChicken351
New Member
I have been ready to begin the fiberglassing/ bondo stage for some time now however I have been to busy, I read most of the stickies about two months ago. I heard something new however, and I am wondering if there is any validity/danger in the claim. Is it true the hazards of the fiberglass resin last even after it is cured and that chemicals can leach out into the user's skin if it is not cured properly? If so how long should I wait and how can it be cured properly to avoid this?
Hey guys i'm starting a grey knight costume and i have gone through the pep and fibreglass process and am on to body filler as i'm in the uk, i have applied the body filler it's just i'm having trouble with how much to sand. The pep file is quite angular with alot of ridges so i applied body filler to all save the backpack support. How far do i sand down to? is it till i have got a smooth body fill layer or until i hit the fibre glass ridges and eliminate them showing with the body filler all the low areas or sagged areas on my armour? Any help from this fantastic community would be appriceated.
WandererTJ
Well-Known Member
As above, You dont truly dont need to use body filler everywhere. In fact, there are instances in which you dont want to do it, like on detailed faces in which you dont want anything to change. However, if you have a large piece that is flat, but instead want it slightly rounded, then adding bondo onto it and slowly sanding it to the shape you want is the way to go.
Since you've already bondoed it, sand it down to how you like the way it looks. This is your build, it's important that you like it. After you sand it down to the shape you want, get some finer sandpaper and smooth it out as though it were a piece of sheetmetal or whatever else is really smooth. That way you dont have any rough textures when you paint, cuz they will show up in the paint.
Since you've already bondoed it, sand it down to how you like the way it looks. This is your build, it's important that you like it. After you sand it down to the shape you want, get some finer sandpaper and smooth it out as though it were a piece of sheetmetal or whatever else is really smooth. That way you dont have any rough textures when you paint, cuz they will show up in the paint.
livinthedream
New Member
I will be starting my build soon so I have been researching alot about all areas of this process. I found a tip in a couple places from an auto body guy. He mixes plastic honey in with his bondo and seems to have almost no air bubbles of holes when he begins to sand. Has anyone ever tried this in our application and does it work? Thanks for any input!
If it's not fully cured, it is still toxic. The resin will cure eventually, but it could take a while if you didn't add enough hardener.
Probably a gallon and a half, maybe 2 gallons.
Rondo will give that same result. It's a mixture of resin and Bondo. I've gone completely over to using rondo for shaping because it doesn't give the air bubbles. Rondo is GOD when it comes to armor building.
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