SergantTinkers
Jr Member
I'll keep my eyes open for such a deal! Thanks for the heads up.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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SergantTinkers
Jr Member
I have yet another question: I am currently fiberglassing, and have resined the outside of a piece only. My question is how strong a piece is when it is resined. I simply need to be sure if I have applied enough on the outside before I start applying layers of fiberglass matting on the inside.
Carpathia
Sr Member
The resined piece will be strong enough to hold its shape, but will be very brittle. Usually one coat of resin is sufficient, but I always err on the side of two coats, three for larger pieces like a torso.
To add, with just resin, it is still also prone to crumpling. If you put pressure or crush it in resin stage, it will retain that crush damage and usually be ruined. Once it's fiberglass/rondo, any damage will be in the form of breaks, which can be patched since the shape is intact.
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
That helps a lot. Thing is, a certain piece of mine (a fairly large piece) is still able to indent when you apply small amounts of pressure to it. I suppose I didn't add enough resin, or just need to touch up with a second coat with those larger parts. Thanks for the tip!
Quick question. Am I able to apply fiberglass resin + cloth to a plastic surface? I'm currently building a Deadmau5 head (see signature link), and for strength, I want to fiberglass the inside. However, the surface is acrylic, and I worry that applying fiberglass would not work. Thanks in advance!
Big appleton
New Member
Question to those who used Aqua Resin before. How durable is it when compared to original fiberglass resin. Also, I notice that they offer a thickener that can go with Aqua Resin, making it a consistancy similiar to Bondo/body filler. Will this be an adequate subsitute?
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
@Scrub: I believe it will still work on plastic. Fiberglass work is often used on fairly slick surfaces, so it should be fine. If not, the only reason I can think of is that the surface is too smooth, which I do not forsee happening. However, if anyone hears differently, please say so!
@Big appleton: Aqua resin is a common substitute for fiberglass resin. When used properly, aqua resin is very useful. The reason it exists is to provide a non-toxic solution to fiberglass resin. However, here are some things to keep in mind:
-Aqua resin is more expensive than fiberglass resin, though also more safe.
-Aqua resin is not as readily available, and often has to be ordered and shipped. Not always, but far more so than fiberglass resin.
-Fiberglass resin is sometimes more waterproof than aqua resin, though that is not always the case and if so, it should not matter too much.
If you have taken these factors into consideration and still want to go with aqua resin, remember that the reason resin is used is to harden the piece provide the foundation for fiberglass. The surface application is merely meant to prevent warping for when the actual fiberglass is applied on the inside. As for the consistency, this doesn't really matter, as bondo is used over this on the surface of the piece to smooth harsh edges on pep models, so the texture shouldn't matter. The choice between aqua and fiberglass resins should really be decided on which is more convenient to you. Good luck out there!
@Big appleton: Aqua resin is a common substitute for fiberglass resin. When used properly, aqua resin is very useful. The reason it exists is to provide a non-toxic solution to fiberglass resin. However, here are some things to keep in mind:
-Aqua resin is more expensive than fiberglass resin, though also more safe.
-Aqua resin is not as readily available, and often has to be ordered and shipped. Not always, but far more so than fiberglass resin.
-Fiberglass resin is sometimes more waterproof than aqua resin, though that is not always the case and if so, it should not matter too much.
If you have taken these factors into consideration and still want to go with aqua resin, remember that the reason resin is used is to harden the piece provide the foundation for fiberglass. The surface application is merely meant to prevent warping for when the actual fiberglass is applied on the inside. As for the consistency, this doesn't really matter, as bondo is used over this on the surface of the piece to smooth harsh edges on pep models, so the texture shouldn't matter. The choice between aqua and fiberglass resins should really be decided on which is more convenient to you. Good luck out there!
Raziel Azarak
New Member
Yes, you should be able. I've used fiberglass/resin on plastic/rubber type material. It was the shifter trim cover for a Jeep. Worked good for it. Just make sure you clean & sand the part you want to use the fiberglass/resin on.
Polyester resin contains styrene, which is a relatively aggressive solvent and can simply dissolve some plastics, so be careful and try it out on a sample first.
IPv6 Subnet
Member
Ok I made a master chief suit and I either rushed it to much or didnt put enough resin on it. I was hurrying up because I was going to Disney World and it was during Haloween and I was going to wear the suit in the park. Because of this I put in the fiberglass cloth and painted all of it in only one week. Now that I did this the suit is very flimsy, and It started falling apart in some weak places like the arm straps. I was not able to wear the suit at Disney World =( but I did wear it to a gamestop and bought me halo 3 odst 
I also wore it around the game room that was at the condo. My ideas in how to fixing this is to take out all foam first to make it easier to work with and also I need to for re resining. Then patch all minor cuts with bondo filler. After I do this I would paint it with silver paint and give it a battle damage look. After I have all those things fixed I had an Idea that I put seran rap over all the painted parts of suit and tape it so that resin wouldnt get over it and ruin it. I have a couple of other qeustions to. When I resin the suit do I need to do it once or twice? Also dose anyone have any good ways to putting on either belts and buckles or velcro to the suit, because I used velcroe and It worked horibly when I did it. Answers to my qeustions would be apriciated.
I also wore it around the game room that was at the condo. My ideas in how to fixing this is to take out all foam first to make it easier to work with and also I need to for re resining. Then patch all minor cuts with bondo filler. After I do this I would paint it with silver paint and give it a battle damage look. After I have all those things fixed I had an Idea that I put seran rap over all the painted parts of suit and tape it so that resin wouldnt get over it and ruin it. I have a couple of other qeustions to. When I resin the suit do I need to do it once or twice? Also dose anyone have any good ways to putting on either belts and buckles or velcro to the suit, because I used velcroe and It worked horibly when I did it. Answers to my qeustions would be apriciated.
Carpathia
Sr Member
A few detailed pictures of the problems spots of your armor, or the armor overall, would go a long way to help us answer your questions.
For resin, I always err on the side of two coats of resin on the outside of the armor, but it's up to you.
As far as buckles/velcro, I've always had success with attaching them with hot glue, but you have to make sure that the surface you're attaching them to is not too smooth, otherwise there will be nothing for the glue to hold onto.
For resin, I always err on the side of two coats of resin on the outside of the armor, but it's up to you.
As far as buckles/velcro, I've always had success with attaching them with hot glue, but you have to make sure that the surface you're attaching them to is not too smooth, otherwise there will be nothing for the glue to hold onto.
Why do you want to first paint and then resin it? Considering the amount of rework you want to do (obviously I can't see it, but it sounds like a lot), I would take everything off the thing that is removable (buckles, padding, visor, etc.) and then go through all the steps again from the beginning. Since it's already wearable to some deree, you can probably skip the resining, so start with fibreglassing instead, then move to Bondo and sanding and at the very end, repaint it.
In general, when resining, how many coats you need to do depends on how thick you brush it on. I'd start with a really light coat, then do a medium one. If you use heavy cardstock, thats enough, otherwise you need at least a third coat.
IPv6 Subnet
Member
My bad I didn't meen a complete new paint job of silver to the whole suit. I just ment a new paint job on the minor cuts and stuff were I would put bondo filler to act as a glue. And I will be thinking of your idea, I also skipped the bondo part last time due to time and it dosnt look as good as it could look so I might consider that.
SergantTinkers
Jr Member
Bondo is always good to use. While it requires more work, it is definately a much more detailed look in the long run, and worth it.
Sangheilli106
New Member
Hello,
I just created my pep Helm, its the Mark IV and its coming along pretty well. Now i have to apply resin but this is the part im confused on, i know that im suppose to use fiberglass resin... but im stuck on specifics, there is polyester molding resin, polyester laminating, isophthalic polyester, Vinyl ester, etc. which one should i use for my cardstock pep Helm? all suggestions welcome and appreciated.
I just created my pep Helm, its the Mark IV and its coming along pretty well. Now i have to apply resin but this is the part im confused on, i know that im suppose to use fiberglass resin... but im stuck on specifics, there is polyester molding resin, polyester laminating, isophthalic polyester, Vinyl ester, etc. which one should i use for my cardstock pep Helm? all suggestions welcome and appreciated.
3M's "fibreglass resin" is a polyester laminating resin. But you can use (almost) any resin you want, completely different types of resins as well, like epoxy.
Anything marine grade is good, if it has a picture of a boat on the front, it's good stuff... and polyester.
This is the go-to stuff most people use, any auto-zone, o'reilleys, wal-mart, or home depot will have this:
Remember, a coat of resin ONLY (no cloth) on the outside, then an option two coats on the inside for extra strength. THEN you either rondo or fiberglass (resin + cloth) the inside.
This is the go-to stuff most people use, any auto-zone, o'reilleys, wal-mart, or home depot will have this:
Remember, a coat of resin ONLY (no cloth) on the outside, then an option two coats on the inside for extra strength. THEN you either rondo or fiberglass (resin + cloth) the inside.
Raziel Azarak
New Member
Anything marine grade is good, if it has a picture of a boat on the front, it's good stuff... and polyester.
This is the go-to stuff most people use, any auto-zone, o'reilleys, wal-mart, or home depot will have this:
Remember, a coat of resin ONLY (no cloth) on the outside, then an option two coats on the inside for extra strength. THEN you either rondo or fiberglass (resin + cloth) the inside.
Yup, that's the stuff! Depending on what you are making. If you plan on making a whole suit. I recommend buying a gallon of this stuff. Should cost about 45-50 bucks for it. The quart size runs about 15-20 bucks. So it's cheaper to buy the gallon. Also, the bondo is cheaper in the gallon too, about 20 bucks. So depends on how much you are making. And, of course, if you got the money to spend on it.
If you can find a place that sells fiberglass in big rolls, that might be cheaper then buying the small package from the store.
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