"Help!" for: Foam
- Thread starter Carpathia
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That's the type of foam he uses, I don't know what else to tell you. There are thicker (and thinner) variants but that is the foam that DaFrontlineTrooper uses. As he's mentioned in one of his videos he calls it "styrofoam" simply because it's easier to say and takes less time to say, but this is what he uses. For wider projects you could just as easily get two pieces, glue them together, and work from there, I don't know what else to tell you.
DoctorFang
New Member
go to your local Walmart or Lowes (or Menards, or ace, or whatever you have around you) and look for shop/gym floor mats. its best if you cut it with a heat knife, but i've cut it with hunting knives before. it will be really sturdy, and pretty bulky. the bulk can be good or bad, depending on what you want. Best of luck!
Hey Guys, first time poster, long time creeper. I've been looking for information on Plastidip as I'm a little confused. I've searched around but have not found an answer to my question so here it is.
A few tutorials cover Plastidip as a sealer/stability coating and some say it is sand-able to create a smoother finish. All of the Plastidip products I can find are rubber coating and would not be able to be sanded. Am I not looking at the right product, or am I just misunderstanding the use for it.
Thanks for any help.
A few tutorials cover Plastidip as a sealer/stability coating and some say it is sand-able to create a smoother finish. All of the Plastidip products I can find are rubber coating and would not be able to be sanded. Am I not looking at the right product, or am I just misunderstanding the use for it.
Thanks for any help.
Bigbearwayne
Jr Member
I get my foam from micheal's or hobby lobby. Hobby lobby had foams that are 2mm. Micheals has both 2mm and 6mm. Hope this helps.
CinnamonMiko
New Member
Hello,
I've been lurking for a long time and piecing together as much research from these forums as I can before I get started on my adventure in foam building. I've developed a couple of questions that I haven't really found answers to so...here goes!
1) Do people actually have a problem with EVA/hot glue seams separating over time? If so, how is this problem addressed?
-I ask this because it was mentioned as a passing concern in several foam threads, it seems like a 'ghost' problem that is talked about but never experienced.
2) What glue do you prefer for bonding layers of EVA together?
- I see this technique used most often in shoe pieces where builders want a little extra height under their heel and choose to layer a stack of EVA. Is it just spray adhesive, or is there a liquid glue that is foam safe and trustworthy enough for that sort of responsibility?
Thank you for your time!
I've been lurking for a long time and piecing together as much research from these forums as I can before I get started on my adventure in foam building. I've developed a couple of questions that I haven't really found answers to so...here goes!
1) Do people actually have a problem with EVA/hot glue seams separating over time? If so, how is this problem addressed?
-I ask this because it was mentioned as a passing concern in several foam threads, it seems like a 'ghost' problem that is talked about but never experienced.
2) What glue do you prefer for bonding layers of EVA together?
- I see this technique used most often in shoe pieces where builders want a little extra height under their heel and choose to layer a stack of EVA. Is it just spray adhesive, or is there a liquid glue that is foam safe and trustworthy enough for that sort of responsibility?
Thank you for your time!
Carpathia
Sr Member
Unfortunately, I cannot answer the first question since I haven't delved too far into foam building, but I can offer my own answer for the second question.
When I built my boots, I did add a second "tread" layer to the bottom of the boot. The glue I used to adhere those pieces was a shoe adhesive called Shoe Goo. You can find it just about anywhere they sell shoes (usually right next to the shoe polish and shoe strings). Thus far, the treads have not shown any signs of coming loose.
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
Since Carpathiavh99 did a good job at answering #2, I might shoot for #1. I don't know of any reason why the hot glue would separate over time. Maybe if someone left the armor in a really hot car, like in a parking lot or something, it could come loose. I haven't heard of hot glue just deteriorating over time for no reason. One theory could also be that over time the stress on the seams rips them. Ie, someone is really rough on their armor and over time it could theoretically weaken. But I still would believe the foam would rip before the glue ever failed.
sarlume
Member
I haven't been working with foam as long as most of the great builders on this site, but I have found in my short experience that if a piece is built too small it will definitely tear before the glue separates. Usually in the seam area, but it tears the foam around the glue rather than the glue itself. Repair in such cases makes for pretty ugly seams, so in the future I need to be sure to err on the side of "too big" rather than "too small" to be sure the foam doesn't tear at its weak points after wear.
Jackablade
New Member
Hey chaps
I'm pretty green so bare with me here. I've had a good read of this thread and looked over a few videos but haven't quite gotten a clear idea of what I'm attempting yet.
I've more or less just begun experimenting with foam construction. I'm currently trying to get a better handle for precise, sharp joins. I've got some good knives and can get a nice clean angled cut without too many issues, but I'm still left with a fairly sizable seam. I made an attempt to sculpt a nice crisp corner using hot glue and then sanding it back down and while it kind of worked, it was pretty messy and I wound up scuffing up the surface of my foam pretty badly. There's sure to be a better (and probably pretty obvious) technique for dealing with this.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I'm pretty green so bare with me here. I've had a good read of this thread and looked over a few videos but haven't quite gotten a clear idea of what I'm attempting yet.
I've more or less just begun experimenting with foam construction. I'm currently trying to get a better handle for precise, sharp joins. I've got some good knives and can get a nice clean angled cut without too many issues, but I'm still left with a fairly sizable seam. I made an attempt to sculpt a nice crisp corner using hot glue and then sanding it back down and while it kind of worked, it was pretty messy and I wound up scuffing up the surface of my foam pretty badly. There's sure to be a better (and probably pretty obvious) technique for dealing with this.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
All I can really say is practice. Make sure the angle of the cut doesn't shift throughout the cut, unless you intended it. Also, stay true to the lines you have marked. Zig zagging back and forth over the line will make for some pretty ugly seams. It's really all about precision and consistency. Even the smallest change in your cut can make a huge difference in the way the pieces meet.
Additionally, don't just mindlessly cut your template, then cut your foam, and expect a great seam. You should really inspect each piece and see how it connects with every other piece around it. Taking some time and planning ahead will make a huge difference. I generally have pepakura designer open right in front of me as I'm planning my cuts.
If you do these things, just keep at it. You'll figure it out.
Jackablade
New Member
Thanks N8Four.
I'm wondering if there's a better technique for making my angled cuts. I'm currently placing my ruler 5mm or so back from the edge and then run the blade against it with the tip slicing right along the lower corner of the foam. This results in a slice which looks straight to the naked eye but still leaves 1mm or so seam along the join. I toyed with the idea of somehow clamping a second ruler underneath so that I could get a perfect cut, but couldn't quite work out how to achieve it.
Perhaps it is just a matter of getting more used to wielding the knife. It's been a while.
Cheers.
I'm wondering if there's a better technique for making my angled cuts. I'm currently placing my ruler 5mm or so back from the edge and then run the blade against it with the tip slicing right along the lower corner of the foam. This results in a slice which looks straight to the naked eye but still leaves 1mm or so seam along the join. I toyed with the idea of somehow clamping a second ruler underneath so that I could get a perfect cut, but couldn't quite work out how to achieve it.
Perhaps it is just a matter of getting more used to wielding the knife. It's been a while.
Cheers.
Ahh, I see what you mean. My advice would be to make the angled cut when you first cut it. I have a square piece of foam, about 50cm x 50cm, that I lay out a lot of template pieces. I pin them to the foam and space them out to optimize the foam as best as possible. When I cut it here, I make my angled cuts. Cutting the piece out and then making the angled cuts causes you to have less resistance and the foam is prone to shifting and making these angled cuts ugly and painful. When cutting from a larger piece of foam, the foam shifts less, is more rigid, and leads to a better angled cut.
Hope this makes sense.
Spartan 420
Member
[QUESTION] Are there any alternatives to a heatgun for bending foam?
It's one of the most expensive tools left on my "To-Buy list", and quite frankly I don't want to spend £30 on something that blows hot air.
I've heard of people using lighters for heating up foam but there's no way that's safe or practical for an entire suit.
So far I have 2 ideas, the first one is the most obvious one:
The Hair-dryer. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a hairdryer as a heatgun alternative? I'm unsure of the temp needed to soften foam, or if a hairdryer can reach it. Can someone test this for me if they have some scrap foam please?
My second idea is to use a portable heater. Such as this:
It might not blow the air but it should certainly be hot enough to soften the foam. This also has a potential second use in melting sheet plastic for vacuum forming.
So has anyone tried using an alternative such as these? Do they work?
Thanks
-S420
It's one of the most expensive tools left on my "To-Buy list", and quite frankly I don't want to spend £30 on something that blows hot air.
I've heard of people using lighters for heating up foam but there's no way that's safe or practical for an entire suit.
So far I have 2 ideas, the first one is the most obvious one:
The Hair-dryer. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a hairdryer as a heatgun alternative? I'm unsure of the temp needed to soften foam, or if a hairdryer can reach it. Can someone test this for me if they have some scrap foam please?
My second idea is to use a portable heater. Such as this:
It might not blow the air but it should certainly be hot enough to soften the foam. This also has a potential second use in melting sheet plastic for vacuum forming.
So has anyone tried using an alternative such as these? Do they work?
Thanks
-S420
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
You could just get a heat gun for$15 from harbor freight. This is the one I have and use. It works great.[QUESTION] Are there any alternatives to a heatgun for bending foam?
It's one of the most expensive tools left on my "To-Buy list", and quite frankly I don't want to spend £30 on something that blows hot air.
I've heard of people using lighters for heating up foam but there's no way that's safe or practical for an entire suit.
So far I have 2 ideas, the first one is the most obvious one:
The Hair-dryer. I was wondering if anyone had tried using a hairdryer as a heatgun alternative? I'm unsure of the temp needed to soften foam, or if a hairdryer can reach it. Can someone test this for me if they have some scrap foam please?
My second idea is to use a portable heater. Such as this:
It might not blow the air but it should certainly be hot enough to soften the foam. This also has a potential second use in melting sheet plastic for vacuum forming.
So has anyone tried using an alternative such as these? Do they work?
Thanks
-S420
http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html
That isn't that expensive. Certainly cheaper than most foam mats.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Considering Spartan-420 lives in the UK, shipping from Harbor Freight might negate the lower cost; but it's worth a look.
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