"Help!" for: Foam

[Zaff]

I'm new to the concept of armor modeling and was wondering what the easiest material is to use as a beginner. Should i use foam or pepakura?

Really it all depends on your personal strengths. Foam is faster in many ways, but good quality requires a steady hand for clean cuts, and once a piece is put together you're pretty much stuck with it if it's a bit off. Pepakura is slower and is slightly easier and more forgiving in the initial building process, but it comes at the price of a heavier piece and having to deal with the reinforcement process to make it sturdy enough to wear without cracking to pieces. Pepakura is also a bit better for detailed pieces, but creative use of craft foam can make up for the lesser detail of foam building. You're on the right track asking for advice. I'd recommend checking out as many tutorial videos as you can get your hands on, see the different building processes in action, and determine which one appeals to you more, which one fits your own style better.

 

[Pawing Sloth]

So i'm new to this whole foam thing but where is the best place to get the foam? I've been looking around and i see that EVA foam is used a lot of different buillds but that is really expensive. that's when i found that EVA foam is just Closed cell foam and i found a place called foambymail and was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this site or if anyone has gotten foam from them and have any tips on what kind to get. here's a link
http://www.foambymail.com/VA/polyethylene-foam-roll.html
I feel like this is the kind of stuff i'd be needing but i'm not sure what density i should go for or what thickness i should get. Any ideas??

 

[FLYzilla]

#1 when print the files should i use paper or cardstock.

#2 after printing on some of the foam files there are fold flaps should i just cut them off

 

[EVAkura]

So i'm new to this whole foam thing but where is the best place to get the foam? I've been looking around and i see that EVA foam is used a lot of different buillds but that is really expensive. that's when i found that EVA foam is just Closed cell foam and i found a place called foambymail and was wondering if anyone has ever heard of this site or if anyone has gotten foam from them and have any tips on what kind to get. here's a link
http://www.foambymail.com/VA/polyethylene-foam-roll.html
I feel like this is the kind of stuff i'd be needing but i'm not sure what density i should go for or what thickness i should get. Any ideas??

Depending on where you are. If you have them where you are, just go to a Harbor Freight, or any major hardware store. If not, yes, 12mm EVA closed cell puzzle style foam mats are what you need to start. Also, to enhance and give you better options when it fits, 6mm and 2mm craft foam are a powerful medium to have as well. They can be found at most craft stores or online as well. If you are looking for them online, the brand "Foamies" works well for me.

#1 when print the files should i use paper or cardstock.

#2 after printing on some of the foam files there are fold flaps should i just cut them off

Personally, I will only use cardstock because it is easier to trace around with accuracy and tends not to buckle or move like paper... but it is personal preference (usually cost-wise)

Yes, fold flaps are not needed in foam work. However, you need to be flexible with foam. Sometimes you will need to make slight alterations from time to time, but there is no rule for that... that knowledge just comes with experience when or when not to do it.

 

[Pawing Sloth]

Thank you very much for the help! It's greatly appreciated!

 

[FLYzilla]

Personally, I will only use cardstock because it is easier to trace around with accuracy and tends not to buckle or move like paper... but it is personal preference (usually cost-wise)

Yes, fold flaps are not needed in foam work. However, you need to be flexible with foam. Sometimes you will need to make slight alterations from time to time, but there is no rule for that... that knowledge just comes with experience when or when not to do it.

Thanks for the info

 

[Mr Wilson]

So my first build endeavor I have chosen foam. i live in an apartment so it is a lot more viable. I will be living on this thread for a while I am definitely excited though. After the whole foam thing, I will eventually do a full pep but for now, I think I could make foam look pretty awesome if I take my time I think my biggest concerns will be scaling and skinning it so it looks smooth. I do larping and we do a similar process to make our shields so it is not completely new to me. Expect my successes and frustrations to be forthcoming!

 

[Mr Wilson]

One down side I've noticed with elastic that it will also get turned around and shift if it doesn't have an anchor. To expand on that (or stand alone I guess?) I have an idea that I've used on sewing and lighter projects but should still work on armor. Or it might work better with armor? Keep in mind that I haven't used this method on armor builds before but I intend to use this when I start on my build. Basically, elastic rope (like small rubber bands) or the stretch jewelry thread and buttons. If your under suit is form fitting, it'd be better as it won't shift as much as loose shirts. If you use rubber bands, keep extras handy as it could snap. Elastic rope like hair ties would work well since it is covered in fabric and less likely to snap.

Sew buttons to your under suit at strategic places. Good examples would be at both sides (left/right) of the knees or joints. Use black buttons or clear ones so it isn't as noticeable and at the right places it could even blend in with your suit well enough to look like its part of the suit. These will act as your anchors for your pieces. More doesn't necessarily mean better since you'll need to be able to loop the elastic around each button. However, put as much as you think is necessary to hold it in place. Then simply attach a loop of elastic to the corresponding spot of the armor. I imagine hot glue will work well to hold the loop in place. Keep in mind that this is a hook/eye method so don't place tack where you'll be attaching the loop to the underside of your armor too close to the button. Try to make the loop small enough where it won't fall off the button too.

Plus, it is very interchangeable!

I'm pulling from sewing experience here so it may not work as expected with armor builds. The theory sounds about right though. Thoughts? Suggestions? There could be some problems I'm overlooking with this so let me know.

I am very curious about this, it sounds like a good idea. So what do you mean by 'look elastic around'? I sort of was picturing maybe putting a slit in the elastic in a place where the armor covers then putting the button through the slit. You could zig zag the edges of the slit so that it does not split or fray... Are you meaning more like how one of those accordion files closes? Where you take a string and wrap it around several times?

 

[orbital J]

hi i want to start a new project out of foam, this will be an odst set of armour anyone got any ideas what foam to use ???

 

[Flynney]

hi i want to start a new project out of foam, this will be an odst set of armour anyone got any ideas what foam to use ???

Most people use EVA floor mats that are 10mm thick such as these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLACK-INTERLOCKING-EVA-SOFT-FOAM-EXERCISE-FLOOR-MATS-GYM-GARAGE-HOUSE-OFFICE-MAT-/200821078755?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Exercise_Fitness_Fitness_Accessories_ET&var=&hash=item2ec1de7ae3

There are other thicknesses, but the other common foam used is 2mm thick usually referred to as foamies.

For ODST most people use hugh holder files as well. Have fun!

 

[blackout11c]

As Flynney said, 10mm EVA foam sheets are the way to go, with thinner sheets (foamies) generally used for extra detail.

For ODST most people use hugh holder files as well. Have fun!

Arguably, that depends on the game. But Hugh's ODST foam conversions are quite a good start.

 

[Bacoose]

Heya, I got a few questions, and I'm sure a few were answered somewhere in here, but I can't seem to find them. So first off, when using plasti-dip (or layers of PVA for that matter) will I have to get a primer paint to go on top of that, or would regular spray paint on top be just fine, and should I do a clear coat on top of that, or would it be okay as is? And then is there any specific type of spray paint I should use in the first place? I've heard automobile paint works well, but that's a little out of my budget for now.
And one last thing (which I guess isn't really related to foam but I thought I'd ask anyways), I'm not really sure what I should do about my visor, I'm planning on getting just a motorcycle visor in the colors that I need, should I attach it while making the helmet itself, and just tape over it and paint, or should I do the painting and what not first and cut the visor to shape and insert it.

OH! And adhesives! I've heard that using hot glue, or gorilla glue works well, but I just want to know what everyone prefers

 

[EVAkura]

So first off, when using plasti-dip (or layers of PVA for that matter) will I have to get a primer paint to go on top of that, or would regular spray paint on top be just fine, and should I do a clear coat on top of that, or would it be okay as is? And then is there any specific type of spray paint I should use in the first place? I've heard automobile paint works well, but that's a little out of my budget for now.

Any paint can go over PVA (or wood glue for that matter). Plasti-dip is used to help prevent the PVA from cracking and to give a better surface. I, personally don't use spray paint on Plasti-dip because I am worried of long term chemical reaction between the two. I always use water based acrylic over my plasti-dip. The only time you will need a clear coat is if you use a water based paint like acrylic. Other than that, a clear coat is not required.

And one last thing (which I guess isn't really related to foam but I thought I'd ask anyways), I'm not really sure what I should do about my visor, I'm planning on getting just a motorcycle visor in the colors that I need, should I attach it while making the helmet itself, and just tape over it and paint, or should I do the painting and what not first and cut the visor to shape and insert it.

This is a tough one. If you are making the helmet out of foam, it is wise to make your visor first, fit it with a mounting bracket (I intend on using 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide aluminum stock to form to the shape of the helmet and then attach the crafted visor to that. This will help the visor keep it's shape. I will then attach only the aluminum to the inside of the helmet because I know it will slightly alter the shape of the helmet. THEN, I will paint. Once all of that is done, I will then reinstall the visor. By doing it this way, I am sure not to cause any damage to the visor, nor crack the paint when the visor is installed[/QUOTE]

OH! And adhesives! I've heard that using hot glue, or gorilla glue works well, but I just want to know what everyone prefers

I use both High Temp hot glue (I stopped using multi-temp once I realized there is a drastic performance difference) and super glue. I primarily use the hot glue for just about everything, but super glue comes in handy from time to time... especially very small pieces/detail work or a place where I know I can not get my glue gun into.

I hope this answers your questions.

 

[The magic pie]

So I want to eventually get into making more foam armor. My overall goal is to have a set of Halo Spartan armor. My main question is, is there any sort of simple armor around that I could use to practice on? Which is a better tool, a regular Xacto knife, or a heat knife? Are there any other alternatives to cutting angles other than the Xacto angle tool?

 

[EVAkura]

So I want to eventually get into making more foam armor. My overall goal is to have a set of Halo Spartan armor. My main question is, is there any sort of simple armor around that I could use to practice on? Which is a better tool, a regular Xacto knife, or a heat knife? Are there any other alternatives to cutting angles other than the Xacto angle tool?

DFT has some easy to build templates. Do a search and find his files if you want the "jump right in" method.

XActo is far superior to heat knife. But I would suggest a surgical scalpel handle #3 and #11 blades instead. Available through Amazon, you will save a ton of money in the long run (it costs about $15 for a handle and 100 blades) and the handle is far superior at preventing rolling or drifting due to its shape as compared to the barrel style handle of XActo.

As far as angles go, foam is very forgiving in that aspect. You need to come semi-close, but a perfect match is not necessary. Check out my videos link in my signature for some quick instructional clips and you can always PM me if you have additional questions.

 

[Whisp]

Complete noob when it comes to armor building, but have been reading a lot and want to do foam for my first build. Can anyone direct me to the best complete set of mark VI armor patterns for foam? Also, wondering how to go about adjusting for height and size. I'm only 5'10" but fairly thick in the chest and thighs. Any suggestions from those who are experienced? Thanks, can't wait to get started!

 

[Demogorgon]

Complete noob when it comes to armor building, but have been reading a lot and want to do foam for my first build. Can anyone direct me to the best complete set of mark VI armor patterns for foam? Also, wondering how to go about adjusting for height and size. I'm only 5'10" but fairly thick in the chest and thighs. Any suggestions from those who are experienced? Thanks, can't wait to get started!

As far as I'm aware, there aren't very many foam templates out there for the Halo 3 MkVI armor. As for scaling, use HaloGoddess' scaling guide to scale your pieces (for the chest I recommend measuring armpit to armpit and add an inch or two and you should be fine). If the thighs are too narrow but the height is perfect, split the inside seem, note how much extra space you need, and add foam with the extra length that you need. This should open up the thighs so that they fit around your thigh yet retain the proper proportion to the rest of the suit. I did this with pepakura in my H3 'Busa build if you want to see what I'm talking about. Good luck on your build.

 

[Whisp]

Thanks much for the advice. Now that I'm looking more into the details I'm switching to pep for my first attempt...looks like it's more complicated to get started but the details really come out sharper in the end. Maybe I'll give foam a try another day

 

[Zalrohg Lekkolo]

This is EGG-CELL-LENT!!!

This is fantastic advice and very much appreciated. I just started working with foam and im really glad I have a lot of stuff to go off here on this forum to assist my attempts.

 

[Searra 117]

I have a plan to make ODST armor. I was planning on using EVA foam for the entire body but I am not sure what to use for the helmet. Do pepakura files work best? where can I get one?