"Help!" for: Misc...

[xBeaver Feaver]

Im tossing around different ideas for making a visor for my MK VI helmet. We use a process for dyeing the plastic heads of our lacrosse sticks by placing them into water and RIT fabric Dye. Does anybody know if this process would would with plexi glass? If possible, I would like to dye the visor colour and then apply a mirrored widow tint. Has anybody tried this or have any experience?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Hedgietto]

I've noticed that many of the helmets constructed here (BTW - you guys rock my world) have some tubing on either side, below the mouth. Is this for breathing, or is this some part of the helmets that I've overlooked? Thanks!

 

[xBeaver Feaver]

Hedgietto
I've noticed that many of the helmets constructed here (BTW - you guys rock my world) have some tubing on either side, below the mouth. Is this for breathing, or is this some part of the helmets that I've overlooked? Thanks!

Hello,

I am also very new at this so I may be wrong. Somebody please correct me if I am.
The tubing below the mouth on either side in a 100% real operating helmet (that doesnt exist) I believe would be for breathing. On the replica helmets you see here, it is only for cosmetic reasons, and to keep the helmet looking authentic.

I hope that helps.

 

[halo95]

is there anyway you could do an EVA helmet? I know that you can put a motorcycle into a pepped visor, but is there anyway to do a full visor like that?

 

[Ral Partha]

I've noticed that many of the helmets constructed here (BTW - you guys rock my world) have some tubing on either side, below the mouth. Is this for breathing, or is this some part of the helmets that I've overlooked?

It's part of the Mark VI helmet and others. We use something called wire loom or cable manager in the build and can be found in the electrical section of a hardware store.

 

[sik1276]

Is there something that is similar to bondo,etc. that is: Non-toxic (Does not require a respirator) and will help smooth over any noticeable edge/ledge, etc.?

 

[Ral Partha]

Is there something that is similar to bondo,etc. that is: Non-toxic (Does not require a respirator) and will help smooth over any noticeable edge/ledge, etc.?

Try Aqua Resin. There are a few threads about it so search the boards. It's harder to find, more expensive and from what I've seen, does not produce the same result as the regular resin/bondo combination. At least it's safer since it's water-based.

 

[sik1276]

Try Aqua Resin. There are a few threads about it so search the boards. It's harder to find, more expensive and from what I've seen, does not produce the same result as the regular resin/bondo combination. At least it's safer since it's water-based.

Hmm, I'm looking for something that could be found locally, like in Michaels, Walmart, etc. Do you need a respirator for Bondo Spot Putty? How about epoxy or drywall?

 

[ventrue]

Hmm, I'm looking for something that could be found locally, like in Michaels, Walmart, etc. Do you need a respirator for Bondo Spot Putty? How about epoxy or drywall?

The only Bondo spot putty I can find on 3M's web page is "Bondo® Glazing & Spot Putty", and the MSDS for that recommends a respirator.
Epoxy is more dangerous by skin contact than by breathing, but wearing a respirator is still a good idea.

 

[sik1276]

hmm, guess i'm screwed. I'll just go with my original plan of using paper clay

 

[xBeaver Feaver]

I guess depending on the amount of material needed, or the job you need completed, I have heard of people using wood glue and saw dust, or wood putty. You could probably get away with not using a respirator while working with these materials. However, if there is alot of sanding required, a dust mask may not be a bad idea.

Hope it helps.

 

[Roadkiller]

I've been having great success working with "Apoxie Sculpt" as a replacement for the auto-body filler (i.e. "Bondo"). You can find a description at the link as well as information about similar products:

http://www.avesstudio.com/index.php...ion=com_virtuemart&Itemid=4&vmcchk=1&Itemid=4

This may be available locally at an art or hobby store.

 

[Agent Texas]

Perhaps I am wrong...but I have been through most of the tuts and stickies in all of the forums and so far I have not found any questions like this. I am not even sure whether this is possible or not, without sacrificing the quality of the acrylic pieces.

Is it possible to fuse two sheets of *transparent and colored acrylic* without sacrificing the quality of the sheets for the visor? If so, will the colors properly combine and remain transparent?

 

[ventrue]

Is it possible to fuse two sheets of *transparent and colored acrylic* without sacrificing the quality of the sheets for the visor? If so, will the colors properly combine and remain transparent?

I remember somebody using green and orange transparent foil in layers of two and three sheets to simulate different colours, but as usual, I forgot who it was and where :-(

Anyways, I wouldn't try to use the whole surface area to glue them together. It should be sufficient if you put them on top of each other and glue the edges, preferably in a way that hides the glue in the finished helmet. Make sure to go all the way around, to prevent water or vapour from getting in between the layers.

 

[Agent Texas]

Ah...okay. So I first shape both of them- etch the one on top, and then glue them both together. Thank you for that! It's one great solution that is good for the situation at hand.

I was also thinking- perhaps I could heat them on top of each other before vacuforming them both? Would that also fuse them together? Or will it cause problems?

 

[halo95]

does anyone have a tutorial or thread on vacuforming?

 

[Agent Texas]

does anyone have a tutorial or thread on vacuforming?

I have not see one yet thus far, but if you look in the Elite Forums, many of the WIP threads have vacuforming sections on them. They do a lot of vacuforming. If you don't want to look in those forums, just Google "vacuforming". It should come up.

 

[muppetsman]

Ok, so i scalled my pepekura pieces to my height, and most of them are turning out fine, however, the chest piece i find it hard to get my arms and head into at the same time, and my c.o.d piece is just to skinny for me to get into. Could i cut one of the underarms of the chest and the side of the codpiece so it folds open, and then just not resin the fold so it will bend when hardened? or is there a better way to make these pieces fit me better, and i am able to get in them? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Roadkiller]

You don't fit your head through the hole, it's a "neck hole", not a "head hole". During construction you will seperate the chest into a 'front' and 'back'. Then you need merely clip them together to wear it. The hole need only be big enough to fit your neck, not your head.

Here's where I seperated my Mk VI chest at the top, also cut the pieces joining under the armpit. Click image to see the blue lines representing where the cut would be:

 

[muppetsman]

That makes way more sense than what i was doing. I cut the hole way larger so i could almost get my head through. Hopefully it'll still turn out with a larger neck hole now. Thank you for your advice.