How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

Status
Not open for further replies.
OXM_Chase said:
lol take that Mother Nature. Bazinga! Yeah I've been using both sides. Are the visors set to a specific size of helmet or will I have to cut it to fit which I hope isn't the case haha.





Hey Ben, which of these stir sticks would be stable enough to withstand stirring bondo and the mold chemicals, etc? coffee sticks but I'm thinking maybe these bamboo sticks



I would go with the bamboo, as for the visors, sorry to say you'll have to trim them for some helmets





Trigger said:
Ditto I'm also curious as to how the visors work in most helmets like vac formed visors and such do they recommend a certain sized helmet or are they like a one size fits all kinda deal?



Also for my models I'm thinking about resining the outside then glassing the inside, then a thin layer (or possibly thicker if I'm mounting things inside of the helmet) of rondo to smooth out the inside and just giving the piece more "meat" for screws or whatnot to bite into. Does this sound like a good plan? I've had bondo and resin in my bedroom for like half a year now... pepping is painfully slow.



sounds fine, but remember to add a bit of extra bondo, or even fiberglass where you plan to screw.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah Trigger it's definitely a long process. Now imagine if you mess up ;)



How would I cut the visors to fit my helmet Ben?
 
OXM_Chase said:
Yeah Trigger it's definitely a long process. Now imagine if you mess up ;)



How would I cut the visors to fit my helmet Ben?



after the helmet is made, then put the visor inside , mark where it needs to be cut, then place masking tape over the cutting area of the visor. to cut use a dremel. using masking tape helps to prevent visor flaking.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey Ben quick question,



Is it possible to use Smooth-on's Universal Mold Release with Rondo?



Also, great series of video tutorials, its helping a lot of people out there. Your efforts for helping the members of the 405th are tireless, and we all greatly appreciate that!
 
Hey Ben, you are such a great guy :D. I used your rondo method last night for the first time and my ODST helmet is rock hard with just one layer. It was quick and pretty easy. Thank you so much man!
 
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
Hey Ben quick question,



Is it possible to use Smooth-on's Universal Mold Release with Rondo?



Also, great series of video tutorials, its helping a lot of people out there. Your efforts for helping the members of the 405th are tireless, and we all greatly appreciate that!



Yes it is



Neoproks said:
Hey Ben, you are such a great guy :D . I used your rondo method last night for the first time and my ODST helmet is rock hard with just one layer. It was quick and pretty easy. Thank you so much man!



np, a lot of us have been using this method for years, it's easy, its great, and its fairly cheap (wow did I just describe myself ;p).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Holy crap.. I jsut realized something. I have an Xbox live friend named jack, and for some reason I call him Ben and I couldnt figure out why. I realize now that I was on here while I was talking to him and saw your name and thought "Ben" so now I'm stuck with calling him Ben and it really annoys everyone.
 
hey ben I am/will use your rondo method to harden the inside of the helmet. I noticed that when I use the same amount that you use, the stuff is still thick and pasty. Do I just keep adding resin until it is the same consistency that you have in your video?
 
Iron Mang said:
hey ben I am/will use your rondo method to harden the inside of the helmet. I noticed that when I use the same amount that you use, the stuff is still thick and pasty. Do I just keep adding resin until it is the same consistency that you have in your video?



correct add resin until it reaches the consistency you want. However it also helps to stir up your bondo first, or get the guys at walmart/ homedepot to use a paint shaker on it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

I will be working on helmets again today so expect another marathon of videos either late tonight, or early tomorrow ;p
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ben,



1. When you said to add more interior layers of Roto, Rondo, Smooth-Cast, etc how many layers is probably enough so you don't sand completely through the pep? I never would've guessed that one wasn't enough.



2. Is Flex It 5 only for helmets that will be molded because I thought you used it before as a substitute for the interior instead of Roto, Rondo, and Smooth-Cast?
 
OXM_Chase said:
Ben,



1. When you said to add more interior layers of Roto, Rondo, Smooth-Cast, etc how many layers is probably enough so you don't sand completely through the pep? I never would've guessed that one wasn't enough.



2. Is Flex It 5 only for helmets that will be molded because I thought you used it before as a substitute for the interior instead of Roto, Rondo, and Smooth-Cast?



1. Don't worry about sanding through the pep file. It's gonna happen, it's natural. This part of the process is to show you how easy it is to patch a hole. Don't be afraid to sand, if you make a hole, then add some tape and rondo the back a bit, then continue sanding. It's a slow process I know, but it uses much less material than trying to plan that far ahead.



2. I only recommend it for molding helmets due to its expansion. You can use this on wearing pieces (I use it to back helmets with in my castings), however, I don't recommend this until you familiarize yourself with its use, expansion, curetimes, etc. Basically you'll get there but when you rush that's when accidents happen, and all the hard work you put into the piece goes out the window.



Aaron said:
What's up with the busa helmet? Where are the spikes :unsure



Spikes are coming as a second piece. This will make it easier to mold, as well as giving me the option to vac-form the spikes (which will save on the overall weight of this helmet)



Here is the file thread if you guys want to make it this way too
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Dark Fang said:
how did you detail the vents on the reach helm



yeah sorry I didn't video that part, but I video taped doing similar work on the busa today, I will be uploading that late tonight or sometime tomorrow. Basically I used a round, flat grinding head on the dremel to grind a straight line on both the top, and bottom of each vent. then I took out the middle part using a tapered grinding head.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BenStreeper said:
1. Don't worry about sanding through the pep file. It's gonna happen, it's natural. This part of the process is to show you how easy it is to patch a hole. Don't be afraid to sand, if you make a hole, then add some tape and rondo the back a bit, then continue sanding. It's a slow process I know, but it uses much less material than trying to plan that far ahead.



2. I only recommend it for molding helmets due to its expansion. You can use this on wearing pieces (I use it to back helmets with in my castings), however, I don't recommend this until you familiarize yourself with its use, expansion, curetimes, etc. Basically you'll get there but when you rush that's when accidents happen, and all the hard work you put into the piece goes out the window.



1. Since holes are almost inevitable, how many layers would suffice to create as little holes as possible? I'd imagine 2...



2. Are the other solutions (Roto, Rondo, Smooth-Cast) suitable for lining the helmet's interior when wanting to make a mold because they seem more user friendly for a noob haha, but I don't know if they could withstand the weight of the mold liquid
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OXM_Chase said:
1. Since holes are almost inevitable, how many layers would suffice to create as little holes as possible? I'd imagine 2...



2. Are the other solutions (Roto, Rondo, Smooth-Cast) suitable for lining the helmet's interior when wanting to make a mold because they seem more user friendly for a noob haha, but I don't know if they could withstand the weight of the mold liquid



1. the solution here is to plan ahead, adding more to the areas of the helmet you think you will be detailing deeper, or sanding down a a lot.



2. roto, rondo, and smoothcast are only more suitable do to the fact that they do not expand. This makes them a bit easier to manage for beginners. All of the solutions however are suitable for molding.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top