How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

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BenStreeper said:
1. the solution here is to plan ahead, adding more to the areas of the helmet you think you will be detailing deeper, or sanding down a a lot.



2. roto, rondo, and smoothcast are only more suitable do to the fact that they do not expand. This makes them a bit easier to manage for beginners. All of the solutions however are suitable for molding.



1. Will do ;)



2. Thanks, I want to go for the cheaper side and use the rondo method so just wanted to double check
 
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Hey Ben, I see you are from Beaumont. I actually live not too far from there. :p



I'm actually new to creating armor and such. I created my Pep of my helmet in December and today I finally got to working on it using fiberglass. I honestly wish I had seen your videos earlier before I bought my fiberglass. Your video on Rondo was very helpful and seems like a great alternative to fiberglassing the inside of the helmet. I didn't want my fiberglass cloth to go to waste so I decided to do that instead than to try the Rondo method. Now I wish I did the Rondo method instead because it was extremely messy working with the fiberglass and resin, lol. Next time I create another helmet, I'm more than likely going to use the Rondo method because it seems much easier, quicker, and over all more efficient to use than fiberglass. You have amazing videos and I'm more than likely going to watch all of them to learn everything I can for further armor and helmet making. Thanks for making such insightful videos. :)
 
These vids are Super incredibly helpful.

Few questions:

For the foam, do you absolutely NEED it?



Like, would a helm be okay with just Rondo inside?
 
Broli said:
Hey Ben, I see you are from Beaumont. I actually live not too far from there. :p



I'm actually new to creating armor and such. I created my Pep of my helmet in December and today I finally got to working on it using fiberglass. I honestly wish I had seen your videos earlier before I bought my fiberglass. Your video on Rondo was very helpful and seems like a great alternative to fiberglassing the inside of the helmet. I didn't want my fiberglass cloth to go to waste so I decided to do that instead than to try the Rondo method. Now I wish I did the Rondo method instead because it was extremely messy working with the fiberglass and resin, lol. Next time I create another helmet, I'm more than likely going to use the Rondo method because it seems much easier, quicker, and over all more efficient to use than fiberglass. You have amazing videos and I'm more than likely going to watch all of them to learn everything I can for further armor and helmet making. Thanks for making such insightful videos. :)

nice to see some more southeasttexas folk, newspartancreator lives in Orange and visits from time to time. you should stop by the shop if you are ever in Beaumont, we should be open in about a week and a half-ish



Stevieboy7 said:
These vids are Super incredibly helpful.

Few questions:

For the foam, do you absolutely NEED it?



Like, would a helm be okay with just Rondo inside?



nope don't need it I just like the foam cause it's faster
 
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BenStreeper said:
nice to see some more southeasttexas folk, newspartancreator lives in Orange and visits from time to time. you should stop by the shop if you are ever in Beaumont, we should be open in about a week and a half-ish







nope don't need it I just like the foam cause it's faster





Wait a sec. Do you foam instead of rondo when using for casting? I thought you did both, I guess I need to finish watching the vids



Give me the addy to your shop, I'm just in Houston and I'll come by sometime.
 
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Hawk77 said:
Wait a sec. Do you foam instead of rondo when using for casting? I thought you did both, I guess I need to finish watching the vids



Give me the addy to your shop, I'm just in Houston and I'll come by sometime.



I use both



Xcon Gaming: Extreme Console Gaming

4169 Dowlen Rd

Beaumnt, Tx 77706



xcongaming.com
 
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I've learned that it matters what kind of glue you use. I'm using Elmer's Carpenter's glue which seems to saturate it too much and in the end warp the pieces in such a way that piecing them together ultimately leads to a warped helmet. What do you guys use that works the best?
 
OXM_Chase said:
I've learned that it matters what kind of glue you use. I'm using Elmer's Carpenter's glue which seems to saturate it too much and in the end warp the pieces in such a way that piecing them together ultimately leads to a warped helmet. What do you guys use that works the best?

From what I've heard, hot glue is definately the best.

Doesn't saturate into the paper, and dries incredibly fast.
 
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Stevieboy7 said:
From what I've heard, hot glue is definately the best.

Doesn't saturate into the paper, and dries incredibly fast.



It seems to be that with something like hot glue if you don't get the tabs lined up perfectly and it dries up really fast, you're out of luck and have to ripped the tab off.
 
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OXM_Chase said:
It seems to be that with something like hot glue if you don't get the tabs lined up perfectly and it dries up really fast, you're out of luck and have to ripped the tab off.



Regular Elmer's glue works best for me, I spot a little on my finger tip and spread a thin layer on the tabs. I actually cheat a little and use masking tape to line up the outsides, usually taping entire sections at once, that way they're easier to glue. With hot glue you could always heat it back up with a blowdryer and shift the tab back into place, but seems like a pain.
 
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sid485 said:
Regular Elmer's glue works best for me, I spot a little on my finger tip and spread a thin layer on the tabs. I actually cheat a little and use masking tape to line up the outsides, usually taping entire sections at once, that way they're easier to glue. With hot glue you could always heat it back up with a blowdryer and shift the tab back into place, but seems like a pain.





I use hot glue, when I first ran into the problem with the hot glue gun I was ticked, then it dawned on me, just run the tip of the glue gun back and forth over the area that you just glued and it will release without tearing up the paper. Re apply glue and don't mess up again. Also, I use the low heat, that way when I press the to peices together and the glue oozes out it only burns for a second and doesn't blister. While it's still warm rub off the excess.



My two cents worth...now I'm broke
 
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Thanks guys. I think I realized my issue. When gluing the tabs, I'm forcing the tabs together and not necessarily bending the mountain and valley folds into their corresponding tab. In essence, it makes it so the numbers don't match up and you get an unaligned helmet. Is there any trick to getting perfect alignments? I wouldn't think you had to be perfect in your cuts, but so far I've had to start over twice so what do I know haha
 
OXM_Chase said:
Thanks guys. I think I realized my issue. When gluing the tabs, I'm forcing the tabs together and not necessarily bending the mountain and valley folds into their corresponding tab. In essence, it makes it so the numbers don't match up and you get an unaligned helmet. Is there any trick to getting perfect alignments? I wouldn't think you had to be perfect in your cuts, but so far I've had to start over twice so what do I know haha





I score my mountains and valley's with a utility knife lightly so that they bend easy and in the direction they bend. Score the mountains on the print side and score the valley's on the non printed sign. Draw you a line with a ruler on the back side so that it lines up. In order to draw my lines, I cut a very very very small nitch at the end of the line so that I know where to align my ruler and then draw my line on the back. After a while you will be able to do it without the lines once you get your technique down. Also lining up the lines will give you perfect alignment.
 
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ok I know these are pictures, but I'm having trouble with the video camera (Don't worry I ordered a new one that is hd, should be here on Monday-ish)

Here is an example of a "Hey that could be" moment. Walking around in the newly laid out Walmart I stumbled across These are faucet filters. Each cots a grand total of $1.49 ans save a bunch of work. Aerator's are their proper name.



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Here is a follow up tip on smoothing. 1st I sanded through the paper to the smoothcast 320 beneath, then on top I used fiberglass jelly to smooth. This process will be completed with 2 to 3 coats of Lacquer to finish.



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Looking great Ben! Oh no Hayabusa went bald. :pSeriously though, I like seeing Hayabusa helmets WIP since you don't see them that often.
 
Shade said:
Looking great Ben! Oh no Hayabusa went bald. :pSeriously though, I like seeing Hayabusa helmets WIP since you don't see them that often.



Thanks I like in-progress pics too, to me they are more interesting than the finished products. And hopefully it shows others that these things don't magically happen, and they all look equally bad at times.
 
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Hawk77 said:
I use hot glue, when I first ran into the problem with the hot glue gun I was ticked, then it dawned on me, just run the tip of the glue gun back and forth over the area that you just glued and it will release without tearing up the paper. Re apply glue and don't mess up again. Also, I use the low heat, that way when I press the to peices together and the glue oozes out it only burns for a second and doesn't blister. While it's still warm rub off the excess.



My two cents worth...now I'm broke





I use the same trick, and it really works well for me too
 
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Hawk77 said:
I score my mountains and valley's with a utility knife lightly so that they bend easy and in the direction they bend. Score the mountains on the print side and score the valley's on the non printed sign. Draw you a line with a ruler on the back side so that it lines up. In order to draw my lines, I cut a very very very small nitch at the end of the line so that I know where to align my ruler and then draw my line on the back. After a while you will be able to do it without the lines once you get your technique down. Also lining up the lines will give you perfect alignment.





I use a pen to score my folds, a red for valley and a blue one for mountains
 
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But do the scores have to be spot on perfect? Towards the middle of the assembly the numbers don't match up against each other and I'm not sure if that has to do with my scoring or bending or cutting or what haha.
 
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