How To Make A Helmet From Pep To Finish

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DYSTORTED INC said:
this is great ben, i'll def be using this for my undersuit castings.



ditto, I'm really looking forward to my ultimate iron man build now.
 
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BenStreeper said:
I'll just say this, if you can get that to work you are a better man than me. Getting a casting out of a mold is one thing, getting it to sit back in the mold perfectly is like repacking a computer...... somehow when you put it all back in it just doesn't look the same.

Good point, I'll trust your experience. I will still probably always consider this a challenge, so I might just try in the future anyways...
 
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Hey Ben, I found out what my issue was with my pep warping. Apparently it's only 65lb. I was feeling the difference between 65lb and 110lb cardstock, and didn't notice any differences. Am I suppose to see any difference between the two?





Where can you purchase the pepakura license key since the free download doesn't allow you to save?
 
BenStreeper said:
Here is a follow up tip on smoothing. 1st I sanded through the paper to the smoothcast 320 beneath, then on top I used fiberglass jelly to smooth. This process will be completed with 2 to 3 coats of Lacquer to finish.



just a quick clarification question when you say you sanded through the paper, do you just mean in spots or did you just basically sand away all the paper? I'd imagine that'd be easier to smooth, then trying to smooth over the papers somtimes annoying ridges and less *ondo/plastic/blah
 
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amancue said:
just a quick clarification question when you say you sanded through the paper, do you just mean in spots or did you just basically sand away all the paper? I'd imagine that'd be easier to smooth, then trying to smooth over the papers somtimes annoying ridges and less *ondo/plastic/blah



I only sanded through the parts that needed to be lower, the rest I fiberglass jellied over
 
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OXM_Chase said:
What's the difference between 65lb and 110lb cardstock?



110lb is thicker and less prone to warping, when coating it w/ resin

one solution if you absolutely MUST use 65lb is to double layer the parts

but honestly 110lb is just easier
 
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amancue said:
110lb is thicker and less prone to warping, when coating it w/ resin

one solution if you absolutely MUST use 65lb is to double layer the parts

but honestly 110lb is just easier



Ok, just double checking. Thanks! I'm sure Ben already covered this, but is using a pep file where the helmet has less sharpness to the edges better than a file where every corner is to a point? Thinking ahead to sanding and how exactly it matches up to the real thing comes into play, but is it just personal preference?



Sharper corners



Rounded corners
 
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Church: wow.

Cabose: phhhb, thats nothing compared to my store......... of teddy bear zombies.

Church: .......shut up.

Cabose: Okay!



wow. that deserves a world wide award for the best F******ng arcade in the history of freaking ARCADES!!!!!!!!!! GO BEN!!!!!!!!!!!! THE NEXT ARCADE(maker) LEGEND!!!!!!!
 
That isn't just a store. ITS A COMPLETE GAME PALACE. And its soo huge you can get lost there too. In The Netherlands you cant play for one hour for just one token. We dont even have these playable consoles. Out here its al behind glass.



BTW Love your movies. Still wondering what the tool was to make these sharp corners with though.
 
jurgenp1 said:
That isn't just a store. ITS A COMPLETE GAME PALACE. And its soo huge you can get lost there too. In The Netherlands you cant play for one hour for just one token. We dont even have these playable consoles. Out here its al behind glass.



BTW Love your movies. Still wondering what the tool was to make these sharp corners with though.



Dremels, sand paper, and emery boards (nail files) or small files
 
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BenStreeper said:
Rondo Hardening method:





[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBQhDAzLzgM[/media]



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxl-VC8YzcY[/media]



Ok, so I was wondering, can you sand rondo or is it too hard. Thanks
 
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