Soft Parts MarkVII undersuit attempt (WIP with pictures)
- Thread starter eckoe17
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BDUB
Sr Member
It still looks a little bit too wide around the hips. It will be super uncomfortable to wear if it's too wide. The belly part is not the issue.
Right now, your torso is digging into your arms in the model. I understand it's digital, but it will be nearly impossible to rest your arms comfortably. Scale it down 3-4% and it should fit nicely.
also, what construction method are you going to use for the armor?
Right now, your torso is digging into your arms in the model. I understand it's digital, but it will be nearly impossible to rest your arms comfortably. Scale it down 3-4% and it should fit nicely.
also, what construction method are you going to use for the armor?
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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- S2424
I agree w/ @mblackwell1002 on the digging in to arms issue. Can you trim that section only?
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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- S2424
Before you do so, I would check w/ whatever con you are going to and see if this is ok w/ their security. Some cons do not allow propellants. It didn't register in my brain that you were using a CO2 cartridge.....That, in of itself, may not be allowed. Now you didn't mention a con so then this may not apply.....but it is a cool idea.
eckoe17
New Member
I have two versions of the backside attachements. One for Cooling only and one for the CO2 jets. I checked with all the cons I want to attend. A few of them dont allow anything (including 3d printed weapon props) but the others told me its ok. They only prohibit "pyro-propellants or effects".
They were more concerned about the dry-ice cooling system and that I could smuggle my own beverages/alcohol in them.
They were more concerned about the dry-ice cooling system and that I could smuggle my own beverages/alcohol in them.
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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Oh yeah we thought of those cooling systems........unfortunately they would need constant refilling........keep drinking the tank dry........*hick* ....and then overheat......*hick*
eckoe17
New Member
Tonight I try the first batch of the chest with the Kraftplex material. Tried to bend it today... Hard like sheet metal, but if it soaks water it gets soft like butter till it is dry again. Seems like heaven to me.
Only downside: It needs to be cut with a lasercutter. Pepakura and dxf are not the best friends.
Ill call my system the "boozecooler" complete with a 10 gallon keg in a carrycart to pull along. Every con will be like:.
Only downside: It needs to be cut with a lasercutter. Pepakura and dxf are not the best friends.
Ill call my system the "boozecooler" complete with a 10 gallon keg in a carrycart to pull along. Every con will be like:
.
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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- S2424
Got to call in for a fly-by refueling. The Kraftpelx sounds very unyielding.....how do you attach the components? Rivets?
eckoe17
New Member
ok first experiments with the kraftplex done. Works like charm and it can be glued (with a liquid glue).
1. Soak it in water
2. Bend it to desired shape
3. Let it dry (5-10 min)
4.Glue it together.
Only letdown. I used 1.5mm material which is way too thick for the smal "flaps" to be bend in a sharp angle. I need to use 0.8mm for the smaller parts.
After a part is glued together I plan to reinforce the body side of the material with special 2 component expanding foam (which is as hard as epoxy/glassfiber after curing).
Next step is to soak the hardened structure with slow curing very liqid epoxy. The result should be a metal hard like outer finish and a rigid but not brittle inner strukture to give additional strength.
Only thing I still need to work out is how i could apply a real metal outer layer for the optic/colouring/scratches.
Here a picture of a bend part:
1. Soak it in water
2. Bend it to desired shape
3. Let it dry (5-10 min)
4.Glue it together.
Only letdown. I used 1.5mm material which is way too thick for the smal "flaps" to be bend in a sharp angle. I need to use 0.8mm for the smaller parts.
After a part is glued together I plan to reinforce the body side of the material with special 2 component expanding foam (which is as hard as epoxy/glassfiber after curing).
Next step is to soak the hardened structure with slow curing very liqid epoxy. The result should be a metal hard like outer finish and a rigid but not brittle inner strukture to give additional strength.
Only thing I still need to work out is how i could apply a real metal outer layer for the optic/colouring/scratches.
Here a picture of a bend part:
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
You could use contact cement. Most cabinet makers use that to adhere metal trim to melamine sheets (pressed composite wood) or MDF, and it holds very well. The kraftplex sounds like something the would take the adhesive very well and if the kraftplex is stiff enough the edges shouldn't pull off. The metal would have to be contoured exactly to the piece for it to fit properly and to stay adhered together. This si sounding more and more expensive. How much does this stuff cost?
eckoe17
New Member
The foam is very siilar to cantact cement. Expect its verly liquid first and then "foams up" which should work very well with the kraftplex. If that doesn't work ill try the contact cement.
Costs:
hmm...
The materials for the undersuit alone about 250€
The materials für the cooling system 250€
The heads up dsiplay, electronics valves co2 system inclusive material I bought for figuring out the correct way.. ~600€
The material for the armor itself. paint, deatil parts 3D print material....1.2k€
With error marging and things I have to buy 2 times it surely sums up to about 3k.
If I calculate the time I spent and will be spending it is surely a 10k+ piece when finished, but the sentimental worth for me is much much higher (one reason for the excessive amount of time I spend and details I consider)
I also make other costumes which take much shorter
I attached one of my post-apocalyptic costumes for reference (3 day build):
Costs:
hmm...
The materials for the undersuit alone about 250€
The materials für the cooling system 250€
The heads up dsiplay, electronics valves co2 system inclusive material I bought for figuring out the correct way.. ~600€
The material for the armor itself. paint, deatil parts 3D print material....1.2k€
With error marging and things I have to buy 2 times it surely sums up to about 3k.
If I calculate the time I spent and will be spending it is surely a 10k+ piece when finished, but the sentimental worth for me is much much higher (one reason for the excessive amount of time I spend and details I consider)
I also make other costumes which take much shorter
I attached one of my post-apocalyptic costumes for reference (3 day build):
eckoe17
New Member
Progress again.
Tried the 0.8mm Kraftplex material....
Works. not perfekt but reasonable. mainly because its 0.8mm which is creating gaps between the edges. But its crazy rigid after glueing together. I definetly need a new glue (something very fluid and very fast curing) which is not crazy expensive like 2 component glue...
Any suggestions for the glue or how i can process the edges after completing prepping to make it look awesome?
Tried the 0.8mm Kraftplex material....
Works. not perfekt but reasonable. mainly because its 0.8mm which is creating gaps between the edges. But its crazy rigid after glueing together. I definetly need a new glue (something very fluid and very fast curing) which is not crazy expensive like 2 component glue...
Any suggestions for the glue or how i can process the edges after completing prepping to make it look awesome?
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
Well, seeing as this material is very stiff.....you could try using a joint compound...aka spackle. It is easily sanded and takes paint very well. Once all the gaps are filled, you would need to seal up the entire thing.....I would suggest using vivalablake89's method of sealing foam for this material just to be on the safe side. You can find it HERE.
Hey guys! As this is a REALLY great demonstration of how to do an undersuit, I've moved the thread to the Soft Parts area. Don't worry about continuing on with your armor build as well. That's totally fine. I just want people to find this for the undersuit info! Amazing job!
eric draven
Member
This is an awesome build. Cant wait to see the end result.
eckoe17
New Member
SOON... Only 6 more piec es to finish the foam part of the undersuit. YEAHAA After 4 years....
For demonstration purposes I attached a picture of the inside. If anyone is masuchistic enough to consider this type of undersuit prepare yourself for serious fingerpain and countless hours of lonely sewing^^ I myself figured out a dozen better ways to make this while I was sewing but changing the product midway would make everything worse... I think.
Ill post (hopefully) very soon pictures of me with the complete undersuit and actually wearing it. (for a very short time since the cooling is still not finished).
Update on the cooling part also, but I think ill make a whole new thread only for the cooling technice as it is similar complex to the suit itself.
For demonstration purposes I attached a picture of the inside. If anyone is masuchistic enough to consider this type of undersuit prepare yourself for serious fingerpain and countless hours of lonely sewing^^ I myself figured out a dozen better ways to make this while I was sewing but changing the product midway would make everything worse... I think.
Ill post (hopefully) very soon pictures of me with the complete undersuit and actually wearing it. (for a very short time since the cooling is still not finished).
Update on the cooling part also, but I think ill make a whole new thread only for the cooling technice as it is similar complex to the suit itself.
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