MLC's journey to becoming MC!

[Halo 1]

We did actually, but the slight thickness of its screw head might leave us a small gap between the visor lens & the helmet.
I think this would work well integrated in the design whereas you can have these installed by boring a hole outside the helmet, recessing it & covered by bondo so nothing can be seen outside.
Of course, finding a good height for these screws are paramount as long ones may hit you in your face.

Nice work on your fett helmet, BTW

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

G'morning bro,

Actually, I drilled the inside of my helm, just deep enough for the Chicago Screw head to sit in and glue. To the fans just joining us, the Chicago Screw heads are flat, about 0.1mm thick [I'll post pics in awhile]. Once the glue was set, I mounted the lens, pre-drilled, slotted it onto the screws, slipped a rubber washer to 'press' it flush against the mainbody of the helm and screwed in the other end of the Chicago Screw. Viola!

Hope this helps somehow. And thanks for the good word on my Helm bro.

Stay safe,

Tim.

P.S. You got PM bro!

 

[mlcallanta]

Update 11/22/07

Finally opened up my new 10MP cam last night & played around with it, so this morning I thought I'd put it to better use:

Torso/body armor has started and preliminary work begins. Check out the last 3 pics in page 3 of my photo album:

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?use...6&curpage=3

I also did some work on the bicep armors by adding some minor details.

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

 

[SPARTAN II]

Awesome job there, Mardon! The level of detail you're putting into your MJOLNIR armour is just what I plan to do with mine, once I get that far along with my build. Keep up the good work! Love the pics!

 

[mlcallanta]

Awesome job there, Mardon! The level of detail you're putting into your MJOLNIR armour is just what I plan to do with mine, once I get that far along with my build. Keep up the good work! Love the pics!

Thanks bro. There are times when I dont know what I'm doing but still slaving away with "interpreted" details. Sometimes, I just combine halo2 & 3 details in my mind and envision what/how I would execute it. While we do have some references here & there, I'd still incorporate some 'artistic freedom' to the mix

BTW- it seems weird, but I always print one right piece Pep file, make it to check scaling before I proceed to print the left side. I started making the right forearm file of Slyfo and it was good for the scale I choose it to......but when we printed the left at the same scale........it produced a smaller one.
We checked, but it was indeed smaller.
It took us about 15 bond papers to print a page of a specific piece just so i could compare the sizing to the right forearm that I recently completed.......and one that I would not want to make again.

One more thing: I know it'll be awhile till I tackle the MA5C AR, but some of the Pep details of the "complicated" AR file seems to be eating more than one page - what did you guys do?

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

 

[Nicktendo]

Hey Mardon,

About your scaling issue, I think what I'm going to do (since I scale each piece and resize them to a page before ever printing them) is save myself some time and use the "Flip Faces" button in Pepakura Designer. That should give you a reversed build of the same object. You'll have to fit them on the page again, but that way you'll at least know they'll be exactly the same scale. It's less work than doing the whole thing again, but not by much.

And as far as the AR, yeah, I think the model you're using is the Robogenisis model seen here. There should be an option in the "Print and Paper Configuration" box for alignment marks for pieces that run onto multiple pages. Once they're printed, just paste those two papers together along those marks. I think that's the only way to do it.

EDIT: Actually, I just checked Robogenisis' AR model, and as it is, it doesn't run onto multiple (letter-size) pages. I don't know if the scale is good, since the barrel isn't a part of the model, but the MA5C specs are on HaloWiki.

EDIT AGAIN: I just checked the thread for the AR, and Robo says this:

Full scale is 86 (MC's height in inches). This gun is scaled to 76 (for a 6' 4" tall person)

So if you scaled it up to MC (true) size, then yeah, you'll be running on to multiple pages.

 

[mlcallanta]

Update 11/27/07

Added 3 pics to page 4 of my photo album:

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?use...6&curpage=4

Torso/body armor still being bondoed and I also took a pic of the development I'm making on the thigh armors. I also went back & reworked some details on the belt but didnt take any pics of that.

Let me know what you think.

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

 

[BishopX]

"Silicone molds dont last forever. They will tear, you will curse, and you might make another depending on how you feel about spending more money on silicone. plain and simple."

There are many ways to make silicone molds and they do hold up for a while. The type of silicone you use will greatly determine how many parts you can produce before remolding. 50 parts from a good silicone mold is quite common. The benefit to a silicone mold is that on very complex parts, your mold will flex to release your parts and can generally produce a part with better detail. Other benefits are that remolding is very quick.

 

[Nicktendo]

Looking awesome! Those thigh pieces especially grab my attention, since me and my roommate were discussing how to get that paneled look. Might I ask how you achieved that? I can only guess it's more illustration board, but how do you get it curved without warping the rest of the thigh?

 

[Acr1d]

What'd you use to apply the bondo? You should make a short tut cause the bondo parts looks nice. I just dump bondo on a piece and slather it around with a pop sickle stick.......

 

[BishopX]

Dang Mardon....you're an animal. Your stuff looks great as always.

 

[mlcallanta]

Looking awesome! Those thigh pieces especially grab my attention, since me and my roommate were discussing how to get that paneled look. Might I ask how you achieved that? I can only guess it's more illustration board, but how do you get it curved without warping the rest of the thigh?

Yup, illustration board. Curve your cardboard first before gluing it on the Pep......naturally, you cant curve anything around the pep as it would magle it
Try to massage the cardboard details and if its a big piece, do it by adding small cards till they complete your panel. They could be bondoed to look as one anyway.
At the bottom of the thigh, I used a 6" diameter round thick card to hold the shape of the Pep before I did all the modififcations.

What'd you use to apply the bondo? You should make a short tut cause the bondo parts looks nice. I just dump bondo on a piece and slather it around with a pop sickle stick.......

That'll work!
A knife or pallette will do the job as well.

Dang Mardon....you're an animal. Your stuff looks great as always.

Thank you sir - hope you're enjoying the mods.


Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

 

[mlcallanta]

Beautiful helms eh?

 

[Ruze789]

Beautiful helms eh?

Impressive. Most impressive.

You can probably start yourself a new thread in the Molded Armor Discussion for these sweet molded helms, or ask a Mod to move this there. Just seems out of place to have your thread in the Noob forum still.

As always, awesome work, I'm always excited to see your updates, Mardon.

 

[drgon47]

I guess i could be an @$$ and point out the double posting But nah. Im really impressed with your work. Everything looks top notch.

(for the record, i am joking about the double posting )

 

[mlcallanta]

Impressive. Most impressive.

You can probably start yourself a new thread in the Molded Armor Discussion for these sweet molded helms, or ask a Mod to move this there. Just seems out of place to have your thread in the Noob forum still.

As always, awesome work, I'm always excited to see your updates, Mardon.

Thanks Ruze
Yeah, some members told me that I should transfer or atleast make a new thread over at the molding section but dunno if I will be allowed by the mods or continue with this current thread - I dont have a problem either way

I did notice that I have a limit in attaching pics in one thread and I am now down to only 3.21k left
I guess I cant attach anymore pics in this thread.
You guys let me know and I can start a new one over at the molded section.

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com

 

[mlcallanta]

Hi guys,

Some members have suggested that I continue my thread here (from the noob section) since now it involves molding.
For starters, my original noob thread:

http://405th.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5984

So far, we have molded the helmet and have a finished a product pulled from the molds - my personal copy.
We are now currently finishing the bondo work on the torso/body armor and will be molded in a few days.

I'm enclosing a pic below which shows the 'progressive' shot of our helmet project - from Pep to a finished product.
Starting on the left - the Pep Helm, the mock-up (reinforced pep), helmet mold, a pulled fiberglass copy and last is the finished painted product (my personal copy).

LMK what you guys think

Mardon (MLC)
mlcallanta@gmail.com


p.s. oopps.....it seems I am down to my limit in attaching pics, so I uploaded the pics to my photo album instead. Kindly check out the last 2 pics in page 4 of my halo pic album:

http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbum.asp?use...6&curpage=4

 

[thoren]

thats pretty sweet. i would be getting started on making my helm to but i have yet to get a vacuum table or any silicon stuff for that kind of molding i just don't have the cash at the moment =/ i just bought a 360 and now i only have like 30$

 

[franklx2]

Looks awesome, very nice job.

 

[Ze Royal Viking]

I must say, this is one of the best pep helms ive seen. You're up there with Spase :]

Add some battle damage.

 

[sk8er4life]

Are the 2 ones on the right molded? The look like it. And what variant is in the middle?