Muddy Secrets Tutorial
- Thread starter Sigma LS
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Marty Falco
Member
do you have to do one little area at a time? Or can you just do the whole helmet/ piece at a time? and then when does carving in detail come into play?
WinchesterX1000
New Member
if anyone in the UK is wondering i'm 99.9% positive you cannot get liquid hardener here, only the red cream/paste hardener, but don't panic, this works completely fine and can even be used with fibreglass resin by itself, trust me (its why all the iside of my Mk VI is totally red) just use slightly more of it so it will harden a teensy bit faster especially if you're just going to pour it in to get some depth for detail, as you can afford to as it anly takes a second to slosh around
WarHead9705
Member
This is an alright technique! But its runs a lot!! Many guys use this technique to repair their fiberglass bumpers after bottoming out. The only thing i dont like about this is it cracks like fiberglass resign and hard to spread like bondo.
Just my Input
Just my Input
Rondo works fine for me. I often use a brush to smooth the thinner layers out. Haven't tried the dipping and pouring technique, though. As for casting, I use Rondo for the first (outer) layer and then reinforce that with fiberglass mat and resin. The rondo gives a much smoother surface than fiberglass and resin alone. I normally use the hardener for the bondo (twice the normal amount) in the mix. Lately, I have also added resin pigment into the rondo mix and the result is a pre-colored mix. Black pigment works best with the rondo mix I'm using.
Just can't figure out why my rondo tends to have tiny air bubbles... is it due to the mixing technique? Ratio?
Thought become things...
~Red
Just can't figure out why my rondo tends to have tiny air bubbles... is it due to the mixing technique? Ratio?
Thought become things...
~Red
Just a little heads up on this old (but excellent) thread. Thanks to Sigma_LS for taking the time.
Here in the UK I use both Polyester and Polyurethane resins and fillers. If your going to do a lot of mud work then it's probably better to use Cab-O-Sil or some other (cheaper) filler, but I use the 'Rondo' type mix all the time. Mostly because I nearly always have supplies of resin and filler in the workshop and it's very quick and simple. For the UK based members I use 50% - 50% Davids Fastglas resin and Davids Isopon P38 Easy sand, both readily available at Halfords so easy to get hold of to experiment with.
You can do a decent slush cast using this formula at a pinch too.
Anyway, back to the subject. One of the difficulties I found using the tape fence method was getting the tape to stick where I wanted it. Especially on fine edges etc.
Since we are generally using thin layers to smooth outer surfaces heat isn't such a big issue. So I tried using Plasticine as a fence instead. Hey presto! It holds back the Rondo without problems and can be formed into more complex and intricate shapes than the tape. Even edges are easy with this stuff, I found that if the Rondo did get a little hot, a tiny amount of oil leaches from the Plasticine acting like a mould release agent. Win, win!
I found that the Polyester 'Rondo' mix works a little better with the Plasticine than the Polyurethane stuff, so I just add double the amount of the red paste catalyst which is pretty forgiving of measurements anyway.
Quick simple and effective.
Here in the UK I use both Polyester and Polyurethane resins and fillers. If your going to do a lot of mud work then it's probably better to use Cab-O-Sil or some other (cheaper) filler, but I use the 'Rondo' type mix all the time. Mostly because I nearly always have supplies of resin and filler in the workshop and it's very quick and simple. For the UK based members I use 50% - 50% Davids Fastglas resin and Davids Isopon P38 Easy sand, both readily available at Halfords so easy to get hold of to experiment with.
You can do a decent slush cast using this formula at a pinch too.
Anyway, back to the subject. One of the difficulties I found using the tape fence method was getting the tape to stick where I wanted it. Especially on fine edges etc.
Since we are generally using thin layers to smooth outer surfaces heat isn't such a big issue. So I tried using Plasticine as a fence instead. Hey presto! It holds back the Rondo without problems and can be formed into more complex and intricate shapes than the tape. Even edges are easy with this stuff, I found that if the Rondo did get a little hot, a tiny amount of oil leaches from the Plasticine acting like a mould release agent. Win, win!
I found that the Polyester 'Rondo' mix works a little better with the Plasticine than the Polyurethane stuff, so I just add double the amount of the red paste catalyst which is pretty forgiving of measurements anyway.
Quick simple and effective.
helljumper13
New Member
hey dude nice work but i got a question can plaster of paris work on it?
grifandsargert
Member
So I have a pep piece that I need to finish am I suppose to do it in these steps
Resin
rondo
Bondo
Primer
Paint
Resin
rondo
Bondo
Primer
Paint
shwarzwald
Member
Woah necro from hell.
Also yes thst sounds about right. Just be super light when putting on the bondo. Small sections! Dont make the same error I did!
Also you forgot sanding. Sanding should be in there. Loads of it.
grifandsargert
Member
thanks
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