Noble Seven
New Member
mini spartans... future generation of 405th'rs 
My daughters Halo armor
- Thread starter Liq
- Start date
- Status
N
Night Fury
Guest
Her suit looks better than mine
Good job and first rate. Will win first prize if she goes to one of the halloween costume competition. I agree with you that scaling is not difficult. What I found the most difficult is prep the details. When things are small, details are much more difficult to make. Then there is the part fiberglassing the inside of the pieces. Inside is so tight that it almost impossible to get all the details.
_________________________________________________________
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/28682-2-Master-Chief-VI-Almost-Done
_________________________________________________________
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/28682-2-Master-Chief-VI-Almost-Done
yeah, I knew fiberglassing most of the armor would be very difficult, so i went with smoothcast 320 on everything but helmet and chest. For pieces like the cod I would run a line of 2 inch blue painters tape across the model so I wouldn't lose much plastic when I slushed it around. For parts like the arms and legs it was easier because I could simply mask off one end completely. It was a learning process, and I feel like I didn't waste much plastic at all really.
I'll never go back to using fiberglass after pouring smoothcast in pep. I can get pieces done in a fraction of the time, plus I like the durability of the plastic. My daughters armor has a good solid, thick feel to it.
I agree wholeheartedly with this statement! Not that I have huge amounts of experience with fiberglass (only used it for one suit, and I never really liked the stuff anyway), but I did some experimenting with SmoothCast instead of fiberglass resin on my most recent pep helmet. I'm not even using Bondo, I just painted on about five coats of SmoothCast, slushed the inside with it, and started sanding. I'm only about a third of the way done with the sanding part, but I'm getting fantastic results so far! The SmoothCast soaked into the cardstock pretty nicely, too. Using a nice thick application, I even sanded right through the paper, and the inside and outside layers meet up rather nicely!! It may take a little longer, and might be be a little less easy to sand, but I'm really liking it.
Are you using Smoothcast 321 on the outside? I've tried using 320 on the exterior of pieces, but it just sets too quickly. I think the set time of 321 is like double that of the 320. I want to try and do away with using any toxic stuff at all while maintaining good durability.
Yes, definitely, 321 on the outside, as 320 and 300 set far too quickly for brush-on applications. Hmm... that gets me thinking... Sorry, I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I just this second had an idea that may be worth trying, rather than using paintbrushes...
1. Take your finished pep piece and place it in such a way so as to expose the open end (for a helmet, just lay it on its side)
2. Mix the SmoothCast and pouring it into a large, shallow pan (paint roller pan, wide bowl, or something similar)
3. Dip strips of cheese cloth into the resin, getting them nice and soaked
4. Gently lay the resin-soaked cloth on top of the pep piece
5. Let it sit for approximately 30 seconds, allowing some of the resin to transfer to and permeate the cardstock
6. Remove the strip and place it inside the pep piece, being sure to lay it in nice and flat
The idea is that using strips instead of brushes could yield a more even coverage with potentially less dripping, plus you're not wasting a brush, and you get double usage out of the strip. Obviously you'll want to wear gloves, and work as quickly as possible, and it may be a good idea to pre-slush the inside, as well. With 321 you should have about 5-10 minutes of working time. Also, I'm not terribly sure how well the inside and outside layers will meet up using cloth instead of pure SmoothCast. Like I said, I just thought of this, and I'm in the middle of other projects, so if you try this before I get around to it, let me know how it works out!
1. Take your finished pep piece and place it in such a way so as to expose the open end (for a helmet, just lay it on its side)
2. Mix the SmoothCast and pouring it into a large, shallow pan (paint roller pan, wide bowl, or something similar)
3. Dip strips of cheese cloth into the resin, getting them nice and soaked
4. Gently lay the resin-soaked cloth on top of the pep piece
5. Let it sit for approximately 30 seconds, allowing some of the resin to transfer to and permeate the cardstock
6. Remove the strip and place it inside the pep piece, being sure to lay it in nice and flat
The idea is that using strips instead of brushes could yield a more even coverage with potentially less dripping, plus you're not wasting a brush, and you get double usage out of the strip. Obviously you'll want to wear gloves, and work as quickly as possible, and it may be a good idea to pre-slush the inside, as well. With 321 you should have about 5-10 minutes of working time. Also, I'm not terribly sure how well the inside and outside layers will meet up using cloth instead of pure SmoothCast. Like I said, I just thought of this, and I'm in the middle of other projects, so if you try this before I get around to it, let me know how it works out!
I've read smoothcast barely and I was afraid to try it. Isn't it more expensive? For 2 big gallons of resins and 2 big rolls of 2 inch fiberglass, I spent $110 dollars. I still have half gallon of resin and almost a roll of fiberglass left. I don't want to spent too much on a costumes that at the end my kids only wear them for 1 halloween.
That keeps me thinking. I may build a full-size suit that I can use and last for ages. I may try smoothcast. Thanks.
PhantomSG13
Jr Member
Not to add one more nail to the coffin, but I think the days of fiber-glassing are done. Between rondo and smoothcast it's just far far too time consuming and a pain in the arse (still feel those phantom burning sensations on my forearms from brushing against lip of helmet reaching in to lay FG strips.)
Spartan D211
Jr Member
She looks quite badass.Great job my friend.Must have been a pain to pep.
I spent $75 on a gallon kit of 320 which is 2 gallons of product really. I was able to do everything in the kid size suit except helmet, which was already done. I have enough product left to do a full sized helmet, or a couple of child sized parts.
thank you! I have some new ideas for what I want to build next that are in several different genre of movie, and games so my videos and stuff will be updated after a little break from this last build I did.
thank you as well! She was a hit at a party last night with it with her first real night out in it. I have a few things to work out this week before Halloween, but nothing major. The pep was EASILY the hardest part of anything I've done in either of my suits so far. I did almost give up a couple times.
hate to double post, but if you could and havent already please toss a vote my daughters way for Medieval Times tickets! The thread is in general here is a link...
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/29041-help-my-daughter-win-a-costume-contest!
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/29041-help-my-daughter-win-a-costume-contest!
I AM J0HN RAMBO
Member
great work man! armor can be very time consuming! glad to see you got it done in time for Halloween.
saohgionweoi
New Member
agreed. toobad i live in canada. i now have to wait until sring to fiberglass.
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
same here but my 8 month old for some reason just loves my grunt ultra figure
- Status
