Hey thorn696! With the Viewer (Designer might be slightly different) you can find the modifier for the edge ID font size in the settings window (follow below).
(Setting) > (Other Settings) > (General Settings) tab
I actually have a quick question for you if you have a moment. I recently picked up some smoothcast toward my attempt at molding/casting but was brainstorming the use of the plastic to harden pepakura pieces. Once the sloshed plastic is cured on the inside of a paper piece would you be able to remove the paper from the plastic (if not, maybe a sealant layer between the paper and plastic might help to release the two). My intent is to get rid of the paper before shaping the piece. With your familiarity with the material (evidenced by this great build of yours) I would appreciate your opinion.
All is looking well with your build. I feel the helmet is really going to cap off the armor (pun). Godspeed.
Thanks for the intell. As for you're concept I found that a light coat of smooth cast on the out side of paper held everything together then all other work was done on the inside of the paper.
Now for the bad part, every time I sanded and/or ground down below the paper lev Is when I ended up with that oily secretion problem. I was able to find a work around for this and fix my build but I'm not sure how well this would work with you're molding concept.
All that said I think (I was never able to confirm this) That I did two things wrong. One was that 321 has a 10 min work time max, but a 30 min. cure time. Ordering another type of smooth cast would fix that for you. The next Part is going past the the Skin which in this case was at the paper lev. SO yes you would need a a sealant/mold release for that to work.
Now I ask you this Why would you want to us pep as a Temp mold? Yes that question sound harsh but I had to ask it before I could give my opinion. I myself would leave the paper on. Why. Because for each part were I sanded down to the paper lev came out very smooth. Yes sir the paper adsorbed the smooth cast perfectly and made the perfect skin for my project, everything else was added to that skin.
Ok. All that said. If I was to do this all over again what would I do differently? Well using the same style materiel's I would 1 coat smooth cast on the inside and out for the perfect shell and Then I would use Bondo Glass mixed up into a rondo on the inside. That mixture give both strength and ease of use...( It is still as heavy as Reg. Rondo)
I only used the smooth cast because of the low toxic and/or low smell, and it was winter in MI.
Well I hope this gives you enuff info to come up with a good concept. Just start small Smooth Cast cost allot.
Oh!! By the way nice Pun. The new size of 270 (and hay I can read this one)is printed and sitting on my desk.
Your armor is beyond inspiring. I just seen your photobucket link and wow...
Just wow.
Amazing. I bow to thee.
Why thank you PSberetta. for the support.
Every comment helps either as encouragement or as a means of knowing I need to change something.
Edit: I just wanted to add something here. I feel the need to explain What Smooth Cast 321 is to those other readers whom have never worked with this type resin. Smooth Cast 321 is a Casting resin....What dose this mean to the layman well This product is designed to be poured into a mold and cast. When used properly it will turn out a perfect to near perfect part every time. How ever it is NOT designed to be Worked, Tooled, or overly sanded. This resin needs to skin in order to come out right. Skin...what is that? Well the best way for me to describe that would say look at a loaf of bread. notice how you have the nice hard, smooth crust on the outside. That would be the skin and the soft sponge part would be like.... Well the inside. Even though Smooth Cast is not soft per say it is sponge like. This is why working/tooling it causes problems. And as to the horror of any one whom has used a casting resin and not had it skin right, that is when you get that really bad looking surface. So remember to mix it well and agitate you're mold when pouring a casting resin to remove all the air bubbles and get a nice smooth skin.
Now with that in mind if you are looking to work/tool a resin, Smooth-On products dose have other resins. And then their is Fiberglass resin, Bondo, Rondo,and some Epoxy resins all will work/tool nicely for detail work and ARE designed as finish product. Finish products can be used by them self or with other products to create almost any thing, But they for the most part a high density product. ( Weigh allot.)
I hope this help those of you whom are looking at all the different ways and/or resins out there to make you're armor the best that you can. Till the next update....build on.