thorn696
Sr Member
I'm starting to see the term "wet sand" more and more So I want to clear clear up something with my build.
(1.) I started with sanding the plastic (smoothcast 321.) Then I primer coated the part. I then sanded that with 100 grit sand paper, and primer coated it again.
(2.) After that I used a protective enamel to seal the primer coat and sanded that with a 400 grit sand paper.
(3.) Then added the card stock parts and sealed it again. Now that I had 4 coats of paint on the part I needed to "wet sand" the part with 600 grit sand paper to get rid of the orange peel and/or runs, and to smooth the part out.
(4.) Next will be the brushed metallic silver only sanding any runs. I will then add my mask/p. jelly over spots on the metallic silver for the bare metal effect.
(5.) After that will be the Flat cameo color, and if needed to remove runs and/or to remove anything that gets into the paint I will sand that with a 100 grit sand paper before 2nd coat.
(6.) Then I will use a rag to remove any p. jelly revealing the Brushed metallic silver.
(7.) From there I will sponge paint high lights and black wash the whole part and add fine details with fine point brush.
(8.) Finely I will clear coat it with a flat clear coat. As you can see I will be using allot of paint so sanding each part on each step of it will make a big difference in keeping each coat thin and free from runs and/or to remove anything that gets into paint being I'm painting this outside.
I hope this clears up the confusion on Why,What,Were and/or When I'm "Wet sanding"
And finely this weekend. It will not be doing much because I'm still really sore and/or tired from the last 2 weeks of work so I will be posting next week.
Try this for painting. He explains it better than I could.
marshon Tutorials are some of the best
Tutorial-Painting-systems-for-realistic-results
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33236-Tutorial-Painting-systems-for-realistic-results
(1.) I started with sanding the plastic (smoothcast 321.) Then I primer coated the part. I then sanded that with 100 grit sand paper, and primer coated it again.
(2.) After that I used a protective enamel to seal the primer coat and sanded that with a 400 grit sand paper.
(3.) Then added the card stock parts and sealed it again. Now that I had 4 coats of paint on the part I needed to "wet sand" the part with 600 grit sand paper to get rid of the orange peel and/or runs, and to smooth the part out.
(4.) Next will be the brushed metallic silver only sanding any runs. I will then add my mask/p. jelly over spots on the metallic silver for the bare metal effect.
(5.) After that will be the Flat cameo color, and if needed to remove runs and/or to remove anything that gets into the paint I will sand that with a 100 grit sand paper before 2nd coat.
(6.) Then I will use a rag to remove any p. jelly revealing the Brushed metallic silver.
(7.) From there I will sponge paint high lights and black wash the whole part and add fine details with fine point brush.
(8.) Finely I will clear coat it with a flat clear coat. As you can see I will be using allot of paint so sanding each part on each step of it will make a big difference in keeping each coat thin and free from runs and/or to remove anything that gets into paint being I'm painting this outside.
I hope this clears up the confusion on Why,What,Were and/or When I'm "Wet sanding"
And finely this weekend. It will not be doing much because I'm still really sore and/or tired from the last 2 weeks of work so I will be posting next week.
Try this for painting. He explains it better than I could.
marshon Tutorials are some of the best
Tutorial-Painting-systems-for-realistic-results
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33236-Tutorial-Painting-systems-for-realistic-results
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Some may think your process it long but from experience I know it will pay off big time. I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
