Non Toxic Way To Harden Cardboard?

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MrTiKi

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Ok so I dunno if the site is still having problems or I'm going against the rules by asking this( my tread keeps disappearing) But I wanted to know if anyone has tried hardening cardboard using nontoxic materials??
 
Like I posted in your previous topics (The site is acting up-that is why the topics are being deleted) There isn't really any way to harden cardboard without toxic materials.
 
Thanx the replys. I didn't want to go paper mache cause of all the unevenness . I have covered a piece of cardboard to test with water putty mixed with titebond 2 woodglue. Hard as a mofo rock problem is, it is almost impossible to sand.
 
easy, smooth-ons foam it, not flex foam it, it expands hard as a rock and its sandable. and according to ben streeper its completely safe to be around. u just need somthing to spot certain areas as it is pourous
 
As previously mentioned THERE IS a non toxic way to harden armor.



Xtreme, for someone with as much experience as your self I am surprised you didn't mention the following:





AQUA RESIN



Its just like the other stuff just not toxic.
 
Lord Devious said:
As previously mentioned THERE IS a non toxic way to harden armor.



Xtreme, for someone with as much experience as your self I am surprised you didn't mention the following:





AQUA RESIN



Its just like the other stuff just not toxic.



Largest problem with resin alone is its not strong enough. Only 1 coat of resin should be used because only the first coat can go into the cardboard. After 1 coat, any more coats are useless.



If you used my cereal box board method, possibly resin alone would work, but again, 1 coat isn't enough. Also, after attempting to sand the resin to make it smooth, you will hit the cardboard faster then you would think.



Like I said in his previous topic, I have experimented with resin, and it simply is a no.
 
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Xtreme I understand what your saying but I'm not looking for something that is hard as nails at least not right now. We I do go for strength I will most likely be tring your rondo method. (bookmarked it)



Appreciate all the comments.
 
I used oil based paint on my cardboard armor, it not only sealed it and waterproofed it, it shrunk just slightly to really toughen it up. Likely you could do the same with acrylic or latex paint (both water-based). Thompson's Water Seal would have been my first choice, but I was overseas and had none available. Rather than paper mache, there are clays mixed with paper pulp that dry very hard, but are also flexible. This is what I used, sort of a mix of paper mache and hard clay. It sands very easily. In the end, this material was just slightly more brittle than I would have liked. I think a vinyl or latex spackle would give you the right ratio of strength and flexibility, but will cost more. Part of your challenge is also in the cardboard you choose. Haunt a TV and appliance store and get triple-wall cardboard. You'll probably end up building your armor in several layers. Each successive layer should be cut and applied with the opposite grain (direction of the corrugations) as the previous layer. Rub each layer with a damp cloth. This will loosen the glue in the corrugations, allowing them to slip and conform. When they re-dry, they'll be set to the shape you molded them into rather than constantly trying to come apart. There are more details in my old thread that might help.



Redshirt
 
Redshirt said:
I used oil based paint on my cardboard armor, it not only sealed it and waterproofed it, it shrunk just slightly to really toughen it up. Likely you could do the same with acrylic or latex paint (both water-based). Thompson's Water Seal would have been my first choice, but I was overseas and had none available. Rather than paper mache, there are clays mixed with paper pulp that dry very hard, but are also flexible. This is what I used, sort of a mix of paper mache and hard clay. It sands very easily. In the end, this material was just slightly more brittle than I would have liked. I think a vinyl or latex spackle would give you the right ratio of strength and flexibility, but will cost more. Part of your challenge is also in the cardboard you choose. Haunt a TV and appliance store and get triple-wall cardboard. You'll probably end up building your armor in several layers. Each successive layer should be cut and applied with the opposite grain (direction of the corrugations) as the previous layer. Rub each layer with a damp cloth. This will loosen the glue in the corrugations, allowing them to slip and conform. When they re-dry, they'll be set to the shape you molded them into rather than constantly trying to come apart. There are more details in my old thread that might help.



Redshirt



Thanx for the comment. Most of the stuff you mentioned has toxic materials/chemicals in them. I decided to just go the toxic route for it would be easier. But a question, you sealed your cardboard before you added anything onto it?
 
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These two work well together.



rqvon8.jpg
 
MrTiKi said:
Thanx for the comment. Most of the stuff you mentioned has toxic materials/chemicals in them. I decided to just go the toxic route for it would be easier. But a question, you sealed your cardboard before you added anything onto it?



I added all of the details in cardboard, sculpted and blended using the paper pulp clay, sanded it to be exactly what I wanted before brush painting with a very thick oil paint. Water-based house paint would likely accomplish the same result with much less toxicity and more tolerable odor. I was deployed to the Middle East, so I had to use materials available. Go through my profile and look up my work in review thread, it's loaded with pictures showing how I sealed the cardboard. The aqua resin advocates are right, that product would work, but you may be able to achieve the same result with common paint. Beware that too wet of a water-based paint will cause your cardboard to delaminate.



Redshirt
 
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