ThreeEvening158
Jr Member
Looking really good! Rakshasa is one of my favorite Infinite armor cores, so I'm excited to see how this turns out.
CallumWinree
Jr Member
- Member DIN
- S255
This is going to be SICK. my favorite core
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I thought it was alright when it first came out, but then a lot of the armor attachments really started to grow on me and I love it
CallumWinree
Jr Member
- Member DIN
- S255
I just love the modern 21st century inspired stuff. My spartan I’ll do after odst will be rakshasa core for sure
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I decided I wanted to try a new post processing method that was suggested by DeltaAlphaZulu. Delta suggested I first test this on a small part that's easy to reprint, so I tested it on the chest piece! The top half of the chest piece will be almost entirely covered up by the AAP/Kard Plate, so even if this messed up, I could still use it. This is also the one part where I have rough support residue on the outside of the print, so if this method works for this part, it should work on the rest.
(Side note: I purposely printed at a 0.1mm layer height, knowing i wanted to try this post processing method.) To start off, I sanded off the rough areas, such as where the supports were, then I cleaned off any dust with rubbing alcohol. After that, I painted on a coat of UV curing resin onto the raw print and cured it with a UV flashlight. Once the UV resin was cured, I sanded it in a circular motion with 320 grit sandpaper. The below image is after sanding.
I then used rubbing alcohol again to wash away any uncured resin and dust from sanding. After that I applied filler primer.
I waited for the filler primer to fully cure then I applied Bondo spot putty to the deeper imperfections. (Mainly where the supports were.)
Once the Bondo spot putty is fully cured tomorrow, I'll begin the 2nd pass of sanding!
(Side note: I purposely printed at a 0.1mm layer height, knowing i wanted to try this post processing method.) To start off, I sanded off the rough areas, such as where the supports were, then I cleaned off any dust with rubbing alcohol. After that, I painted on a coat of UV curing resin onto the raw print and cured it with a UV flashlight. Once the UV resin was cured, I sanded it in a circular motion with 320 grit sandpaper. The below image is after sanding.
I then used rubbing alcohol again to wash away any uncured resin and dust from sanding. After that I applied filler primer.
I waited for the filler primer to fully cure then I applied Bondo spot putty to the deeper imperfections. (Mainly where the supports were.)
Once the Bondo spot putty is fully cured tomorrow, I'll begin the 2nd pass of sanding!
- Member DIN
- S970
It turned out great so far, I can't wait to see it painted!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
This morning I got to wet sand the filler primer.
Then I painted white primer on to see the imperfections. The roughest areas are where the supports and Bondo spot putty are. I could go back and reapply more spot putty, but it will be covered anyway. I at least know I will be happy with the results of this method for the rest of the suit!
ThreeEvening158
Jr Member
That's looking really clean! I'm actively following this thread for nuggets of information for my build as well haha. Unrelated, but how cool would a Halo spinoff be where you're a Spartan with Rakshasa armor stranded on Zeta Halo? You could go around rescuing other Spartans and Marines to your fireteam and collect armor that actually makes a difference in your stats.
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Big update time! I've been getting a bunch done these past couple weeks!
First off, I used UV resin on all of the parts I've printed (except the thighs) and sanded them with 320 grit.
I put the finger armor and greebles on upside down tape for brushing UV resin on and curing them.
Today I used filler primer on all of the parts that I've started sanding!
All of my boots I currently own are desert tan and I needed black boots for this build. I stopped by Walmart and was able to grab these boots for about $40. I made sure to find ones with a side zipper to make putting on/taking off the armor easier.
First off, I used UV resin on all of the parts I've printed (except the thighs) and sanded them with 320 grit.
I put the finger armor and greebles on upside down tape for brushing UV resin on and curing them.
Today I used filler primer on all of the parts that I've started sanding!
All of my boots I currently own are desert tan and I needed black boots for this build. I stopped by Walmart and was able to grab these boots for about $40. I made sure to find ones with a side zipper to make putting on/taking off the armor easier.
- Member DIN
- S149
Silly Tahu, didn't you know? Rak City is the best because it looks awesome and is a breeze to print, sand, and assemble!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Today I retouched up the right shoulder and chest attachments with some more Bondo spot putty.
I got those parts wet sanded.
Then I got them and the rest of my printed armor parts primered with white primer. I go with white since I've found it to be a great base for the red I like.
I got those parts wet sanded.
Then I got them and the rest of my printed armor parts primered with white primer. I go with white since I've found it to be a great base for the red I like.
Legend 113
Member
- Member DIN
- S331
Being able to sit down will be a blessing for you later, trust me.
