tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I was surprisingly able to sit in my last suit lol. This one should be more comfortable though
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Painted most of the armor red today!
I used the same red as my last grenadier, but they changed the bottle. This was actually a pretty nice nozzle system because I could change the intensity of the spray. That let me lower the spray when trying to get tight corners and I wouldn't overspray the surrounding area. This was by far my smoothest painting experience!
I used the same red as my last grenadier, but they changed the bottle. This was actually a pretty nice nozzle system because I could change the intensity of the spray. That let me lower the spray when trying to get tight corners and I wouldn't overspray the surrounding area. This was by far my smoothest painting experience!
Legend 113
Member
- Member DIN
- S331
Nice mate, how do u go with the gloss finish afterwards? I know I've had to do a heavy black wash on my suit to try and dull it down, or are you aiming for that kind of finish?
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I'm planning on doing the same thing I did with my last suit where after painting I did weathering and black wash, then a gloss finish. I only do 1 maybe 2 layers of gloss finish so the paint is protected but it's not too reflective. With the way I think of it, metal usually looks reflective/shiny so a bit of a gloss finish helps with that. I will be documenting my weathing and finishing process again once I get there!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Did more painting. For my painting method, I go from the lightest color to the darkest color, with a layer of tan masking tape in between each layer, then I do one final peal at the end.
This is the metallic black I use for my secondary color
These are the colors I used for the AAP/Kard Plate. Titanium was used for the top, bottom, and hoop, Soft Iron for the middle, and I used Rub n Buff on the bolts.
This is the metallic black I use for my secondary color
These are the colors I used for the AAP/Kard Plate. Titanium was used for the top, bottom, and hoop, Soft Iron for the middle, and I used Rub n Buff on the bolts.
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
The boot plates were printed! eSun was out of Fire Engine Red so I instead went with Red.
I also ordered 4 pouches from Amazon. These were recommended to me by SigmaProps and they look almost spot on to the ones in game.
I also ordered 4 pouches from Amazon. These were recommended to me by SigmaProps and they look almost spot on to the ones in game.
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Legend 113
Member
- Member DIN
- S331
Nice mate, I got on of those pouches for my odst suit as a sort of tactical hip pouch. They work great for holding important items like your wallet and keys.
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
The only thing stopping me from working on it today is the high winds not letting me paint lol. I did order some more supplies for the gloves. I'll male sure to post links for them once they come in and I make sure everything works!
The undersuit won't be done in time for C2E2 so I plan on reusing my current MK V b undersuit along with my grenadier helmet. I do want to eventually learn how to sew and make a rakshasa undersuit!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I painted the details on the handplates and glued the greebles on them. I also got tubes for the fingers!
Here is the entire suit painted!
Amazon links for the pouches, gloves, and tubes.
IronSeals Tactical Cell Phone Holster Pouch, Tactical Smartphone Pouches Cellphone Case Molle Gadget Bag Molle Attachment Belt Holder Waist Bag for 4.7"-6.7" with US Flag Patch Amazon.com
Unigear Running Gloves, Touch... Amazon.com
Beadalon Rubber Tubing 4.0mm... Amazon.com
Edit: I added Rub n buff to my hand plates.
Here is the entire suit painted!
Amazon links for the pouches, gloves, and tubes.
IronSeals Tactical Cell Phone Holster Pouch, Tactical Smartphone Pouches Cellphone Case Molle Gadget Bag Molle Attachment Belt Holder Waist Bag for 4.7"-6.7" with US Flag Patch Amazon.com
Unigear Running Gloves, Touch... Amazon.com
Beadalon Rubber Tubing 4.0mm... Amazon.com
Edit: I added Rub n buff to my hand plates.
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tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
For assembling the Millwood gloves, the first step was putting a disposable glove on, then the actual glove. This was so I could place armor on the gloves while wearing them and not get adhesives on my hands.
The next step was to use shoegoo to attach the knuckles and hand plate closest to the knuckles.
After carefully removing the glove and letting the shoegoo dry for about 2 hours, the tubes and wire were attached to the knuckles with superglue. The ends of the wires had to be stripped to fit.
After letting the super glue cure, the 6 tubes/wires were taped together on each glove. Then they were taped down to the glove while my hand made a fist, so they would be at their maximum stretch distance.
The final step was to use shoegoo to adhere the 2nd section of the handplate ontop of the tubes/wires. A clamp was used on each glove to hold the handplates down.
After 24 hours of the shoegoo curing, the clamp was removed and the gloves were done!
Movement test
The acrylic blackwash process was also started for weathering the armor. The armor pieces I'm the bottom right have been black washed with the unweathered pieces next to them as comparison.
The next step was to use shoegoo to attach the knuckles and hand plate closest to the knuckles.
After carefully removing the glove and letting the shoegoo dry for about 2 hours, the tubes and wire were attached to the knuckles with superglue. The ends of the wires had to be stripped to fit.
After letting the super glue cure, the 6 tubes/wires were taped together on each glove. Then they were taped down to the glove while my hand made a fist, so they would be at their maximum stretch distance.
The final step was to use shoegoo to adhere the 2nd section of the handplate ontop of the tubes/wires. A clamp was used on each glove to hold the handplates down.
After 24 hours of the shoegoo curing, the clamp was removed and the gloves were done!
Movement test
The acrylic blackwash process was also started for weathering the armor. The armor pieces I'm the bottom right have been black washed with the unweathered pieces next to them as comparison.
SPARTIANRATH
Member
This is going to look sweet, can’t wait to see the finished work
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Today the loops for the back piece were super glued together then welded with a 3d pen.
The full armor set was washed with brown acrylic paint (burnt sienna), but the brown is subtle. Here are some parts where it is more visible.
The ends of the wires on the gloves were tapped together with electrical tape, then trimmed for a more organized fit.
The full armor set was washed with brown acrylic paint (burnt sienna), but the brown is subtle. Here are some parts where it is more visible.
The ends of the wires on the gloves were tapped together with electrical tape, then trimmed for a more organized fit.
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
With my current schedule, right now was the only time I had to add the clear coat. It's night, but there's no wind and I have a head lamp!
This is the clear coat I used. I only applied 1 layer. This is just enough to protect the armor without making it too glossy. I still want a little gloss to get the shiny look of metal.
This is the clear coat I used. I only applied 1 layer. This is just enough to protect the armor without making it too glossy. I still want a little gloss to get the shiny look of metal.
