Raw Build Start

[Exia]

Hi!

Got interested in some Pla/Pla+ cosplay armor. My Vale Helmet Broke. So, I ended up buying a whole new different raw set of armor. Will stop by the store to buy sandpaper to start. Feels exciting, but hopefully I won't ruin anything.

Though I have a small feeling inside that I could just spray paint over it and the lines wouldn't be visible... Maybe..

 

[SgtSaint]

> Got interested in some Pla/Pla+ cosplay armor.

Its always a bit of a charged debate but... PLA(+-*/) has a lower glass-transition temperature, meaning it will be susceptible to warping at summer temperatures.

Seeing as you are just starting out on your suit its worth considering moving up to a more robust material like PETG or ASA before you get much more printed.

 

[Exia]

> Got interested in some Pla/Pla+ cosplay armor.

Its always a bit of a charged debate but... PLA(+-*/) has a lower glass-transition temperature, meaning it will be susceptible to warping at summer temperatures.

Seeing as you are just starting out on your suit its worth considering moving up to a more robust material like PETG or ASA before you get much more printed.

I sorta.... shot the arrow and already bought the rest of the set.... from Etsy with the same creator. Just they haven't finished due to not having all the measurements. I feel like it's too late to back out now. Looked more into it and it states PLA+

 

[Emp Frosty]

I sorta.... shot the arrow and already bought the rest of the set.... from Etsy with the same creator. Just they haven't finished due to not having all the measurements. I feel like it's too late to back out now. Looked more into it and it states PLA+

Pla and pla+ for 3d printed armor works just fine.there are steps you can take to mitigate any potential warping in the heat. The main thing is just don't be standing out in the sun for 3+ hours wiyhout moving or leave your armor in a hot car during heat waves.

Pla and pla+ are honestly what most people use since It's easier for people new printing armor so don't feel like you made a bad choice.

 

[KeithGamma077]

As a printer myself I agree with the above. Heat mitigation is key. Pla and pla+ are great cost effective materials as long as you mitigate how much heat it is exposed to. Most cons are indoors so it’s not too much of an issue there. It comes down to storage. Husky makes great wheeled totes that a lot of Star Wars 501st guys use. Can keep it in there when not worn but be sure to not leave it in your car if you aren’t gonna wear it.

 

[Exia]

As a printer myself I agree with the above. Heat mitigation is key. Pla and pla+ are great cost effective materials as long as you mitigate how much heat it is exposed to. Most cons are indoors so it’s not too much of an issue there. It comes down to storage. Husky makes great wheeled totes that a lot of Star Wars 501st guys use. Can keep it in there when not worn but be sure to not leave it in your car if you aren’t gonna wear it.

Ty for advice. I'll check Husky totes out. I have Sterlite wheeled totes at the moment.

 

[BHE Photos]

When it gets warmer out I plan on running some fairly controlled tests using basic PLA with UV Resin coating for post processing, because I suspect that the resin adds a ton of protection against warping. I recently tried to hot staple some resin printed parts and all it did was burn the surface. I suspect that PLA + resin will meet or exceed the capabilities of the "better" filament types while still maintaining all of the PLA benefits for ease of printing and low cost.
I am a "PLA all the way" guy and wore my Mark IV (entirely printed in basic Overture PLA and post processed with UV Resin) to walk in the DragonCon parade with the 405th, which involved standing in a parking lot with two skyscrapers acting as focusing dishes for sunlight directly onto us for about 45 minutes before walking a mile on blacktop for the parade in mid-90s temperatures without any signs of warping.

Specifically in regards to your broken armor, do you have photos of the break? If it was PLA, you can probably glue it back together and use bondo/resin/a 3D pen to fill the seams and then sand it away and then you'll have another viable helmet (because who doesn't want more helmets?).

Don't worry too much about ruining anything with sanding. Unless you're going ham on it with a power sander, it's pretty tough to over sand. It's annoying enough just getting below the crests of the layer lines (which is why I post process with resin).
Buy more sandpaper than you think you need, there is always room for more sanding. I am a big fan of orbital sanders for flat surfaces. I wet sand everything (hate dust) and usually start with 180 grit, filler primer, then do another round of 180 grit and then move up to 220. For parts that nobody will inspect very closely, I usually stop at 220. For other parts (helmets, chest/shoulder armor), I will move up to at least 320, with some helmets going as high as 600 grit.

 

[KeithGamma077]

When it gets warmer out I plan on running some fairly controlled tests using basic PLA with UV Resin coating for post processing, because I suspect that the resin adds a ton of protection against warping. I recently tried to hot staple some resin printed parts and all it did was burn the surface. I suspect that PLA + resin will meet or exceed the capabilities of the "better" filament types while still maintaining all of the PLA benefits for ease of printing and low cost.
I am a "PLA all the way" guy and wore my Mark IV (entirely printed in basic Overture PLA and post processed with UV Resin) to walk in the DragonCon parade with the 405th, which involved standing in a parking lot with two skyscrapers acting as focusing dishes for sunlight directly onto us for about 45 minutes before walking a mile on blacktop for the parade in mid-90s temperatures without any signs of warping.

Specifically in regards to your broken armor, do you have photos of the break? If it was PLA, you can probably glue it back together and use bondo/resin/a 3D pen to fill the seams and then sand it away and then you'll have another viable helmet (because who doesn't want more helmets?).

Don't worry too much about ruining anything with sanding. Unless you're going ham on it with a power sander, it's pretty tough to over sand. It's annoying enough just getting below the crests of the layer lines (which is why I post process with resin).
Buy more sandpaper than you think you need, there is always room for more sanding. I am a big fan of orbital sanders for flat surfaces. I wet sand everything (hate dust) and usually start with 180 grit, filler primer, then do another round of 180 grit and then move up to 220. For parts that nobody will inspect very closely, I usually stop at 220. For other parts (helmets, chest/shoulder armor), I will move up to at least 320, with some helmets going as high as 600 grit.

I’ve seen similar results of the resin top coat idea. I’ve not don’t it yet myself but in research I’ve seen tests that show yes it keeps it from warping pretty well in heat but should there be blunt force trauma that damage the resin layer it reveals that the pla underneath still gets soft. It just can’t deform inside it’s hard shell of resin unless the resin itself gets deformed or damaged

 

[Exia]

Is there a specific sand paper brand or any works?

 

[Exia]

When it gets warmer out I plan on running some fairly controlled tests using basic PLA with UV Resin coating for post processing, because I suspect that the resin adds a ton of protection against warping. I recently tried to hot staple some resin printed parts and all it did was burn the surface. I suspect that PLA + resin will meet or exceed the capabilities of the "better" filament types while still maintaining all of the PLA benefits for ease of printing and low cost.
I am a "PLA all the way" guy and wore my Mark IV (entirely printed in basic Overture PLA and post processed with UV Resin) to walk in the DragonCon parade with the 405th, which involved standing in a parking lot with two skyscrapers acting as focusing dishes for sunlight directly onto us for about 45 minutes before walking a mile on blacktop for the parade in mid-90s temperatures without any signs of warping.

Specifically in regards to your broken armor, do you have photos of the break? If it was PLA, you can probably glue it back together and use bondo/resin/a 3D pen to fill the seams and then sand it away and then you'll have another viable helmet (because who doesn't want more helmets?).

Don't worry too much about ruining anything with sanding. Unless you're going ham on it with a power sander, it's pretty tough to over sand. It's annoying enough just getting below the crests of the layer lines (which is why I post process with resin).
Buy more sandpaper than you think you need, there is always room for more sanding. I am a big fan of orbital sanders for flat surfaces. I wet sand everything (hate dust) and usually start with 180 grit, filler primer, then do another round of 180 grit and then move up to 220. For parts that nobody will inspect very closely, I usually stop at 220. For other parts (helmets, chest/shoulder armor), I will move up to at least 320, with some helmets going as high as 600 grit.

Part of the helmet is made out of a rubber neck seal type of deal. Otherwise, it would be difficult to put on. However, that is falling apart and extremely brittle and prone to tearing. Tried to fix it with glue but found out that was a bad idea.
So I retired the helmet.

I watched a sanding tutorial and the dude was sanding by hand with a vacuum. I was going to buy a bunch of sandpaper on amazon and sand the entire top helmet down to the feet armor by hand. I suppose I should invest in a power sander. I'll do more research on bonding.

 

[Emp Frosty]

Is there a specific sand paper brand or any works?

Any will work. Everyone has a different process for sanding raw print but generally sand with low grit at the start (60/80 grit) until layer lines are pretty much gone. Then personally I do a layer of filler primer followed by any spot putty touch ups and sand again at 220 a couple of times till everything is smooth.

 

[Exia]

Any will work. Everyone has a different process for sanding raw print but generally sand with low grit at the start (60/80 grit) until layer lines are pretty much gone. Then personally I do a layer of filler primer followed by any spot putty touch ups and sand again at 220 a couple of times till everything is smooth.

Ah I see. I bought some 180 grit, 240 grit, and then for the finishing I bought 3M's 400 grit from what one dude said. I'll buy some 60/80 now.

 

[KeithGamma077]

Ah I see. I bought some 180 grit, 240 grit, and then for the finishing I bought 3M's 400 grit from what one dude said. I'll buy some 60/80 now.

View attachment 359394

Yeah start with low grit and move up. i personally do spot putty on seams then up to 220. then ill do a coat of filler primer and then sand that at 220 and recoat with filler primer as needed. once im happy with it ill wet sand at 1500 before final paint. this is a mando bucket i did last year