CPU64
Well-Known Member
Shame I didn't write anything here yet huh?
Ok, a few tips to help you guys avoid the headaches (in both sense of the word)
First, what mask to use?? When in doubt try it out, if you can take a wif of the resin and still smell it, the mask isn't ok to use.
Mat vs Cloth:
Use mat on the inside for strength, use cloth on the outside to keep your details.
Mat doesn't go around corners at all without bubbling around the crease, use cloth, and always in small sections.
If you are using card or mat board, you "could" soak enough resin on the outside to have a hard enough surface without any glass and keep all your details. But you need a "flawless" shell/base to work with.
Application:
Don't use brushes, it will soak up most of your resin, pull strands off the cloth, and you can only use it once unless you wash it after each use with lacker thinner.
I actually cut a bunch of little "spatulas" out of the same mat-board i use for my shells. Its good for mixing resin, for applying resin, and great for smoothing out the resin over the cloth/mat. And when you're done with that mix, if you're using the mixing container included with the can of resin, just leave the spatula in the leftover and once its hard in a few minutes, just pull the while thing out and the can is clean again for a new batch.
If you're using mat, and the strands are standing up, you need more resin, its a bit dry.. It soaks up a lot of resin but its hella strong.
To go around corners easier, you can "score" a bend line with a metal spatula to "break" the fibers helping it bend around a corner.
Gloves...
I tried to use latex gloves before but they don't last long enough since the resin will melt it in a few minutes. I haven't tried vinyl gloves but I think it wolds up better. I like to apply the resin and cloth/mat with my fingers instead of a tool.
Its faster and i can get into every little spot.. Its more fun getting your hands in it.
If its a small spot, I don't mind using my bare finger-tip then just "peel" out the resin shell once its dry.
Heat:
When its curing, resin gets hot, but not enough to burn you... Well, unless you over hardened a gallon of the stuff and you leave you hand in it. then again, if you do that, I think the heat will be less of a problem than getting your hand out from a block of hard resin
Temperature:
If you're working outside, and its sunny, resin will gel up in about 5 minutes after being mixed. I like to add more hardener so i get about 1.5 to 2 minutes.
If its cool/cold, it will take longer to harden.
If its really cold and humid, bust out the hair dryer. You'll need it. NOT a heat gun! Those can set your project on fire.
Finishing:
After your parts are glassed, you'll need to sand them and now more than before, you need a respirator to keep your lungs from the little pieces of glass floating around you.
And you'll have to Bondo the surface with body filler, sand some more, prime it, and sand some more, before you are ready for paint.
I had lots of people ask me if my armor was vacuum-formed when they see the parts in gray primer ready for paint. It has to look THAT smooth for a sweet paint job!
Cleanup:
If you get drops on any hard surface, wipe it up right away and you're good to go.
If you get it on your skin as a drop, let it harden than easily just peel it out. It doesn't stick to skin well.
If you get it smeared on your skin, you can wipe it with acetone, or lacquer thinner.
If you get it on your clothes, get ready to have it on there for as long as you own that piece of clothing
Just remember, it won't eat chunks out of you, don't be afraid of fiberglass, but do RESPECT it for what it could do to you if you play around with it, and you'll do fine
Wear a mask, pre-cut your pieces, mix little resin at a time, use spatulas instead of brushes, cloth outside/mat inside, and it should be a fun experience
Ok, a few tips to help you guys avoid the headaches (in both sense of the word)
First, what mask to use?? When in doubt try it out, if you can take a wif of the resin and still smell it, the mask isn't ok to use.
Mat vs Cloth:
Use mat on the inside for strength, use cloth on the outside to keep your details.
Mat doesn't go around corners at all without bubbling around the crease, use cloth, and always in small sections.
If you are using card or mat board, you "could" soak enough resin on the outside to have a hard enough surface without any glass and keep all your details. But you need a "flawless" shell/base to work with.
Application:
Don't use brushes, it will soak up most of your resin, pull strands off the cloth, and you can only use it once unless you wash it after each use with lacker thinner.
I actually cut a bunch of little "spatulas" out of the same mat-board i use for my shells. Its good for mixing resin, for applying resin, and great for smoothing out the resin over the cloth/mat. And when you're done with that mix, if you're using the mixing container included with the can of resin, just leave the spatula in the leftover and once its hard in a few minutes, just pull the while thing out and the can is clean again for a new batch.
If you're using mat, and the strands are standing up, you need more resin, its a bit dry.. It soaks up a lot of resin but its hella strong.
To go around corners easier, you can "score" a bend line with a metal spatula to "break" the fibers helping it bend around a corner.
Gloves...
I tried to use latex gloves before but they don't last long enough since the resin will melt it in a few minutes. I haven't tried vinyl gloves but I think it wolds up better. I like to apply the resin and cloth/mat with my fingers instead of a tool.
Its faster and i can get into every little spot.. Its more fun getting your hands in it.
If its a small spot, I don't mind using my bare finger-tip then just "peel" out the resin shell once its dry.
Heat:
When its curing, resin gets hot, but not enough to burn you... Well, unless you over hardened a gallon of the stuff and you leave you hand in it. then again, if you do that, I think the heat will be less of a problem than getting your hand out from a block of hard resin
Temperature:
If you're working outside, and its sunny, resin will gel up in about 5 minutes after being mixed. I like to add more hardener so i get about 1.5 to 2 minutes.
If its cool/cold, it will take longer to harden.
If its really cold and humid, bust out the hair dryer. You'll need it. NOT a heat gun! Those can set your project on fire.
Finishing:
After your parts are glassed, you'll need to sand them and now more than before, you need a respirator to keep your lungs from the little pieces of glass floating around you.
And you'll have to Bondo the surface with body filler, sand some more, prime it, and sand some more, before you are ready for paint.
I had lots of people ask me if my armor was vacuum-formed when they see the parts in gray primer ready for paint. It has to look THAT smooth for a sweet paint job!
Cleanup:
If you get drops on any hard surface, wipe it up right away and you're good to go.
If you get it on your skin as a drop, let it harden than easily just peel it out. It doesn't stick to skin well.
If you get it smeared on your skin, you can wipe it with acetone, or lacquer thinner.
If you get it on your clothes, get ready to have it on there for as long as you own that piece of clothing
Just remember, it won't eat chunks out of you, don't be afraid of fiberglass, but do RESPECT it for what it could do to you if you play around with it, and you'll do fine
Wear a mask, pre-cut your pieces, mix little resin at a time, use spatulas instead of brushes, cloth outside/mat inside, and it should be a fun experience
