Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Wooh! Nice to see the cardboard build done, and I can't wait to see how it translates onto aluminium! It'll look fantastic (plus having an actual metal iron man suit will be pretty cool, I'm sure).
Thanks man.
SB.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thank you sir!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
G'day guys. I have a question.
I printed off jfcustom's modified robo3687's mkIV files and made an entire suit in cardboard. I am 186cm tall and have used the default scale. Most of it looks pretty good. The legs fit perfectly but the hips are a little narrow. So far the arms are just fine.
I used sharkhead7854's helmet at the default scale as well. I cut the back away to get my head in and it fits VERY snug with a bit of a bulge in the cardboard. Would increasing the scale of the helmet by 10% be too much, too little or about right?
If I do print it at 10% bigger and don't increase the scale of the suit, will a 10% bigger head look proportionally too big?
I can increase the scale by 10% over the whole suit, or simply add in a couple of widening strips into the cod so I can get my hips in. Would 10% bigger on the whole suit equal too much room?
I printed off jfcustom's modified robo3687's mkIV files and made an entire suit in cardboard. I am 186cm tall and have used the default scale. Most of it looks pretty good. The legs fit perfectly but the hips are a little narrow. So far the arms are just fine.
I used sharkhead7854's helmet at the default scale as well. I cut the back away to get my head in and it fits VERY snug with a bit of a bulge in the cardboard. Would increasing the scale of the helmet by 10% be too much, too little or about right?
If I do print it at 10% bigger and don't increase the scale of the suit, will a 10% bigger head look proportionally too big?
I can increase the scale by 10% over the whole suit, or simply add in a couple of widening strips into the cod so I can get my hips in. Would 10% bigger on the whole suit equal too much room?
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
It'll look like this:
Borderline on the goofy-looking side isn't it? Might be a bit too much. How did you achieve the scale increase on the photo? That's handy.
Instead of scale increase by 10%, I'm going to try increasing the scale factor by 15mm. That should give me a fraction more room inside without blowing it up too much.
Hmmm... I wonder how similar a 15mm scale factor increase is to 10% scale factor increase....
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Got the helmet finished today. It fits, it works and now I can trace these new templates onto aluminium and start the metal build.
Using Sharkhead7854's Iron Man helmet Pepakura file, I've noticed that when finished, the hole in the bottom of the helmet is too small to get any normal human head in. Many others make a hinged flap, but I thought it would look better if the back flap slid inside the helmet to allow head entry and exit.
I added a couple of extra flaps inside to guide the panel in and out, but also to make sure it stops before fully pulling out. I've left a hole at the back open for the purposes of this video so you can see the stopper.
The panel is actually attached to the ears so they rotate to open and close it. This has good potential for a servo to operate it later.
This cardboard design is now ready to transfer to aluminium.
Using Sharkhead7854's Iron Man helmet Pepakura file, I've noticed that when finished, the hole in the bottom of the helmet is too small to get any normal human head in. Many others make a hinged flap, but I thought it would look better if the back flap slid inside the helmet to allow head entry and exit.
I added a couple of extra flaps inside to guide the panel in and out, but also to make sure it stops before fully pulling out. I've left a hole at the back open for the purposes of this video so you can see the stopper.
The panel is actually attached to the ears so they rotate to open and close it. This has good potential for a servo to operate it later.
This cardboard design is now ready to transfer to aluminium.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. Prototype three now a bigger fit by 15mm. Much more comfortable. I've modified it so that the bottom plate at the back of the head now swivels up inside the helmet to allow room to put the helmet on, then swivels back down into position behind the head.
2. Resized helmet on the left 15mm larger than the one on the right.
3. Aluminium templates marked ready for cutting.
4. Cutting aluminium templates on the bandsaw.
5. Cutting with the bandsaw, staying 1/2 millimetre to a full millimetre outside the edge line to be filed flat.
6. Chin piece cut out.
7. Stitch drilling the shaped hole out, staying a couple of millimetres inside the edge line to be filed flat.
8 & 9 Filing the stitch-drilled holes flat to the edge line.
10. Chin and lower lip pre-assembled, ready for welding.
11. Chin and lower lip pre-polished. This will make it easier to finish polish once it's all welded together.
2. Resized helmet on the left 15mm larger than the one on the right.
3. Aluminium templates marked ready for cutting.
4. Cutting aluminium templates on the bandsaw.
5. Cutting with the bandsaw, staying 1/2 millimetre to a full millimetre outside the edge line to be filed flat.
6. Chin piece cut out.
7. Stitch drilling the shaped hole out, staying a couple of millimetres inside the edge line to be filed flat.
8 & 9 Filing the stitch-drilled holes flat to the edge line.
10. Chin and lower lip pre-assembled, ready for welding.
11. Chin and lower lip pre-polished. This will make it easier to finish polish once it's all welded together.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Thanks blokes.
Here's a short video of the cutting of metal on the bandsaw.
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. Chin, sides, top and one back plate cut and pre-polished.
2. Beating it into shape using a curved-face rubber mallet and a foam mat on concrete. Got to be careful to hit it in key points and not too much, or it begins to stretch the metal.
3. For the tighter curves, I re-shaped the end of an old plastic mallet on the grinder.
4. Curves looking good.
5 & 6. Temporarily tacked together with a bit of hot-glue to get an idea what needs to be bent more or less.
7. Yep.... Fits.
2. Beating it into shape using a curved-face rubber mallet and a foam mat on concrete. Got to be careful to hit it in key points and not too much, or it begins to stretch the metal.
3. For the tighter curves, I re-shaped the end of an old plastic mallet on the grinder.
4. Curves looking good.
5 & 6. Temporarily tacked together with a bit of hot-glue to get an idea what needs to be bent more or less.
7. Yep.... Fits.
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