nikolojedison
New Member
That kinda brushed look to the helmet is sweet. Keep up the good work! 
Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.
- Thread starter BuildsByBaz
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BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Cheers dudes.
Plenty of room. Once the padding goes in it will sit up higher on my head, bringing the chin in line with mine.
Room in the chin for electronics.
Snug fit. No bobble-heads.
All the edging welded in now. Just a bit more clean-up to get all the seams to match up again. This view shows the bottom section closed behind the back of the head.
Plenty of room. Once the padding goes in it will sit up higher on my head, bringing the chin in line with mine.
Room in the chin for electronics.
Snug fit. No bobble-heads.
All the edging welded in now. Just a bit more clean-up to get all the seams to match up again. This view shows the bottom section closed behind the back of the head.
realmasterchief
Jr Member
That looks amazing
sincerelykatie
Jr Member
Oh my word!! fantastic work think i squealed out loud a couple of times while reading this thread
Little Swallow
New Member
So cool!
nikolojedison
New Member
Looks solid!
ErMaC
Well-Known Member
of course it looks solid, its steel lol
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
What I love about this build is that I am learning so many skills outside of what I already know. I'm about to learn a whole lot about amps, volts, ohms and all that stuff. The electronics to go in this suit even have some programming and circuit-boards for command and control to be installed and configured for tasks. I have no idea yet but I guess I'll be learning.
I made a start with lighting today. It's all about improvisation, adaptation and overcoming.
1. Working out the lining for the faceplate. Still some metal edges to shape neat and straight before glueing it in.
2. Set up for a day on the kitchen bench in air-conditioned comfort.
3. Found the most awesome and excellent solid strip lighting that once removed from the housing, is the perfect size for the eyes of the Iron Man face-plate. MEGA bright!
4. LED strip-lighting to go on the inside rim of the Arc reactor. The new soldering station my lovely wife got me for Christmas is an instant hit! The old Bunnings soldering iron was more like a low-heat wood-burning tool, more frustrating than trying to pick a hair off a flea with a boxing glove.
5. I have a power pack of ten 1.5V AA batteries to power the short strip of 12v LEDs.
Although the strip lighting has resistors in between each set of 3 LEDs.
I ran it for a few seconds and found it getting warm. After a couple of minutes it was getting hot.
My stupid memory was jogged by a good man that the current was too much, here's how I fixed it.
AA recharegeable batteries are 1.2 volt each. Off-the shelf batteries are 1.5 Volt, so ten of them gives me too much at 15 volts. (Only need 12 volts.) I've soldered in an extra wire that effectively cuts out two batteries when I am using the higher voltage ones. When I use recharegeables I just use the black wire instead of the grey one to hook up the negative.
I've had it running for ten minutes now and while it is still warm to the touch, it's not hot anymore.
6. Now I've finally got the lighting sorted out in the arc reactor with a big improvement. The cabinet light in the bottom looked great, but even with the laboratory-grade reflective tape lining the inside, the outer opaque ring was not catching the light and illuminating enough. With the LED strip light installed just inside the top, problem solved and looks awesome.
Kitchen lights were on for this photo and is unedited.
I made a start with lighting today. It's all about improvisation, adaptation and overcoming.
1. Working out the lining for the faceplate. Still some metal edges to shape neat and straight before glueing it in.
2. Set up for a day on the kitchen bench in air-conditioned comfort.
3. Found the most awesome and excellent solid strip lighting that once removed from the housing, is the perfect size for the eyes of the Iron Man face-plate. MEGA bright!
4. LED strip-lighting to go on the inside rim of the Arc reactor. The new soldering station my lovely wife got me for Christmas is an instant hit! The old Bunnings soldering iron was more like a low-heat wood-burning tool, more frustrating than trying to pick a hair off a flea with a boxing glove.
5. I have a power pack of ten 1.5V AA batteries to power the short strip of 12v LEDs.
Although the strip lighting has resistors in between each set of 3 LEDs.
I ran it for a few seconds and found it getting warm. After a couple of minutes it was getting hot.
My stupid memory was jogged by a good man that the current was too much, here's how I fixed it.
AA recharegeable batteries are 1.2 volt each. Off-the shelf batteries are 1.5 Volt, so ten of them gives me too much at 15 volts. (Only need 12 volts.) I've soldered in an extra wire that effectively cuts out two batteries when I am using the higher voltage ones. When I use recharegeables I just use the black wire instead of the grey one to hook up the negative.
I've had it running for ten minutes now and while it is still warm to the touch, it's not hot anymore.
6. Now I've finally got the lighting sorted out in the arc reactor with a big improvement. The cabinet light in the bottom looked great, but even with the laboratory-grade reflective tape lining the inside, the outer opaque ring was not catching the light and illuminating enough. With the LED strip light installed just inside the top, problem solved and looks awesome.
Kitchen lights were on for this photo and is unedited.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Glad you'r having fun too mate!
I had fun today pulling apart some lovely little bright LED torches and resoldering longer wires on the COB to get the illuminated strip out of the main body.
Now I have two strips just the right size for the eyes and two neat little battery tubes to install in the suit for easy battery changes.
I had fun today pulling apart some lovely little bright LED torches and resoldering longer wires on the COB to get the illuminated strip out of the main body.
Now I have two strips just the right size for the eyes and two neat little battery tubes to install in the suit for easy battery changes.
Little Swallow
New Member
Learning new skills? You are just very talented. Stay proud on it, keep using it and keep making people jealous.
RobotChicken
Well-Known Member
So, would those be transparent LED strips? :confused Because the thought I get looking at how they're placed in the eye openings is....how are you going to see?? Miniature cameras outside the armor with HUD inside the faceplate? Cuz armor as spiffy as yours has just got to have Jarvis informing you of that wall you're about to walk into!
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
This question gets asked a lot. I will leave slots above the LEDs. Since the dawn of cosplay and before, it is a tried, tested and proven way of viewing to your front.
LCD screens in front of your eyes so close do not work, even if you do place little cameras outside the suit. They are too close to focus on and you would do damage to your vision over time.
Mirrors set up in a periscope arrangement would be a better idea as you are focusing on a deep image, rather than the surface of the glass.
There are many alternatives, it's up to the individual to find what works for them.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
This is the line that the edges need cutting back to. Just wide enough to house the lining, allowing a millimetre of lining to sit proud of the edge.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
All the edges ground down.
And a bit of a polish for motivation's sake.
And a bit of a polish for motivation's sake.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
Don't get too excited. It's getting painted.
BuildsByBaz
Sr Member
1. Each time I'm asked if I'm going to make it fly....
2. Fitting out the soft lining
3. I'm playing around with an alternative to just leaving slots above the eyes. In order to COMPLETELY fill the eyes with illumination, I must find another way to bring the outside view in. I thought of using a couple of old phone LCD screens with the phone camera lenses poking out of some convenient spots, but the problem is focusing on screens so close to your eyes. I fear it would probably do damage fairly quickly.
So, I thought perhaps playing around with mirrors to periscope it up from the gap in the mouth.
First, I practiced on some ordinary glass. (Top of image.)
4. Next, I cut some small mirrors.
5 & 6. I glued them onto some rods so I could adjust the angles inside.
I had to get someone else to wear it so I could photograph the eye through the mouth.
So, it works. I can see unimpeded in front of me clear as a bell. All I have to do now is refine it.
2. Fitting out the soft lining
3. I'm playing around with an alternative to just leaving slots above the eyes. In order to COMPLETELY fill the eyes with illumination, I must find another way to bring the outside view in. I thought of using a couple of old phone LCD screens with the phone camera lenses poking out of some convenient spots, but the problem is focusing on screens so close to your eyes. I fear it would probably do damage fairly quickly.
So, I thought perhaps playing around with mirrors to periscope it up from the gap in the mouth.
First, I practiced on some ordinary glass. (Top of image.)
4. Next, I cut some small mirrors.
5 & 6. I glued them onto some rods so I could adjust the angles inside.
I had to get someone else to wear it so I could photograph the eye through the mouth.
So, it works. I can see unimpeded in front of me clear as a bell. All I have to do now is refine it.
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