Sandbagger's Iron Man builds - Now in STEEL.

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Just a hobby mate, but my peers are all of the opinion that my work is ready to sell, so I am planning on making just a few to help fund the electronics for Iron Man. It will never be an income, but certainly may bring me some pocket money for hobbies.

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:D finished these puppies tonight! Your knives looks super cool by the way. Definitely could make a pretty penny off them. Hardest part would be getting your name out there to get some orders on deck. If making badass knives isn't your profession and it's probably not building the coolest Iron Man suits either.. what is your profession if you don't mind me asking?.. You know, apart from being a billionaire playboy philanthropist. hehe
 
Built two parallelogram swinging hinges in steel today for the Iron Man face plate as well as purchased two bicycle cables to push-pull the faceplate up and down.

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I messed around with the hinge set-up today and got it worked out, including the cables.

The bolts you can see poking in will all have to be replaced with custom pins that will all be aligned and levelled, as well as some strategic bends in the hinge arms themselves, but it lifts and lowers with the faceplate in a good position out of my line of sight while open and a snug seal on the cheek and jaw when closed.

I've also welded a small tab on one of the hinges for the cable to pull the faceplate open. I haven't decided if I am going to have that cable relax against a spring to return, or just have a return cable to pull the faceplate down again.

I will experiment.

1. Side view. The screws will be replaced with flush pins and will not be seen in the finished helmet.

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2. Even though the bolts have not been trimmed, I was surprised that when wearing it, they still did not contact my face when closed. I'm still going to replace and shorten them though.

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3. Here you can see the rear boomerang hinge on the right side of the picture has a little extra tab welded on the end for the cable to attach.

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4&5. Rough placement/position of the cable and hinge positions when open and closed.

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Now you can see why I have been reluctant to grind back everything to a nice finish. There's still a bit of fiddling, cutting, grinding and custom mods to go before I waste any time doing that.
 
I messed around with the hinge set-up today and got it worked out, including the cables.

The bolts you can see poking in will all have to be replaced with custom pins that will all be aligned and levelled, as well as some strategic bends in the hinge arms themselves, but it lifts and lowers with the faceplate in a good position out of my line of sight while open and a snug seal on the cheek and jaw when closed.

I've also welded a small tab on one of the hinges for the cable to pull the faceplate open. I haven't decided if I am going to have that cable relax against a spring to return, or just have a return cable to pull the faceplate down again.

I will experiment.

1. Side view. The screws will be replaced with flush pins and will not be seen in the finished helmet.

http://i.imgur.com/OMwphMt.jpg

2. Even though the bolts have not been trimmed, I was surprised that when wearing it, they still did not contact my face when closed. I'm still going to replace and shorten them though.

http://i.imgur.com/eR6dzws.jpg

3. Here you can see the rear boomerang hinge on the right side of the picture has a little extra tab welded on the end for the cable to attach.

http://i.imgur.com/tofmLBM.jpg

4&5. Rough placement/position of the cable and hinge positions when open and closed.

http://i.imgur.com/765JgiP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UjF0jvs.jpg

Now you can see why I have been reluctant to grind back everything to a nice finish. There's still a bit of fiddling, cutting, grinding and custom mods to go before I waste any time doing that.
Can you use pop rivets?

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
Tried that a long time ago with the fibreglass helmet and aluminium hinges I made similar. No, not this time.

SB.
 
Tried that a long time ago with the fibreglass helmet and aluminium hinges I made similar. No, not this time.

SB.
How about weld on threaded bungs on inside so they are hidden. They make very low profile ones.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk
 
Arc reactor nearly done. Just got to do the copper windings and install one illuminating strip. The inside of the body has reactor-grade reflective tape so that when the strip lights go in, they will double the refraction by reflecting the outward-facing LED's back into the acrylic body.

I've varied the light output in the photos from bright to dim so you can see the detail.

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I got stuck into it straight away tonight, winding and installing the transformers.

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After winding them all I put the last one through the end of my thumb. Lots of blood and a few swear words because I had to stop to patch up my thumb, then use it to unwind the broken wire and redo it. However, the transformers are done!

Now a drop of solder between each to complete the circuit and add the final strip light.

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Thanks mate.


Electronics work begins! Exciting times!!! To tell you the truth my electronic skill is pretty limited... :( I'm a bit worried by all this and hope I can do it.

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Success!!!!

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LED strip installed on inner acrylic body.

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Powered up.

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Full power! Notice now how the outer ring is illuminated where in previous photos it is dark? Mission accomplished before midnight...That's a novelty.

Sometimes you gotta run before you can walk.

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I just found some stepper motors hidden away in the back of my shed. I wonder if I can use these to pull the cables for the face-plate.

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Part of my intent on this build is to illustrate to others that there are many ways to skin a cat.

I don't always have access to a lathe, mill and an engineer to help me, so I have to come up with creative ways to fabricate parts that would otherwise be turned and machined.

This is an imprint an overhead projector lens in clay-sand and filled with aluminium. It's for the chest piece to frame the arc reactor. After a clean up and sand it should be pretty good.

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