3DVagabond
Active Member
Who's that?
Shift Into Turbo! A Power Ranger/Carranger Log (Red Racer)
- Thread starter 3DVagabond
- Start date
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
Just some short Canadian Asian Goy.........
PaiganBoi
Sr Member
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
PaiganBoi
Sr Member
YEAH?Smaller targets need more attention........Aim small, miss small.
well...
...
you're old!
...
dammit.
I'm terrible at comebacks...
3DVagabond
Active Member
Alright! Alright! I think we all had enough with the jabs. So to post a small update on the project, I have miscalculated on the timing of the major two helmet parts. The back of the helmet, since it has less detail, will be completed tomorrow morning. However, the largest of the two won't be done until Tuesday night since it has the most detail to print. In other words, the entire print will not be done until next Wednesday. That's because the 3rd largest part of the helmet is the rims on the side of the helmet. Once the parts are done, I can order the chrome paint and start on the sanding process as it arrives here.
3DVagabond
Active Member
-___- v___v >___> (I wish I knew the right song for this point in the progression, but I'll let you choose the best one in your head...)
Ahem!
11 days have passed since the printing process started on this helmet for the...wait a tick... How many times have I tried to print this helmet again? Hmm...Let's just say higher than ten, but less than 48. I lost count...
And along the way, just getting the right size was a chore on its own. Had a lot of "eureka!" moments and a lot of set backs. I have searched, studied, learned, and adapted to every possible way to improve on this object and after nearly 11 crazy, progressive effing months...
I can officially say, with out a shadow of a doubt, stage one of the physical stage is complete...again!
No, really this time! I made sure I double check the size before I printed it out! Check it out!
Every thing seen here has been carefully measured and tested in a virtual environment before printing. With these pieces separated, I can get a much cleaner paint job with out the worry of spraying too much on the surface for enough coverage. The other reason why I chose to separate them is because of this little idea I had in mind.
As you can see I created "female sockets" to six parts of the helmet. The "male pegs" will be used as place holders to hold the items in place after it's complete.
Finally, I tested trying on the helmet a couple of times and...
It still fits on my head with out any problems. In this photo, I was able to tape 4 pairs of neodymium magnets that I got from Micheal's Arts and Crafts store last year. The name of the brand is ProMag and these magnets at actually 3mm by themselves which makes them smaller than the magnets you see at hardware stores like Home Depot, Lowe's, and Ace Hardware. They were originally going to be used for my first failed cosplay last year, but I couldn't get it together in time. The helmet was able to keep everything in place with out any of the huge parts from separating.
However, it isn't with out errors. So during the sizing process when I was checking the measurements the slicer program, Cura, somehow changed the size of the horizontal length of the back part of the helmet. I thought I double checked to ensure that I didn't have universal sizing on, but I guess, I'm going to have to be more mindful in the future and type the values in.
It's blurry. I know, but you look over to your left, where the neck opening is, you can clearly see the elevation on the back of the helmet in comparison to the front. So at this point, it's 99 percent perfect.
I will now focus on the next stage of the process, sanding, repair, and paint prep. This will take me some time to finish since my work schedule this week will envelope most of my afternoon. I'll do what I can, but I need to get this done by Sunday to get it ready for the first layer of paint. The chase of getting a chrome finish for certain parts of the helmet is alluding me and if I don't make a decision soon, I will have to just spray them grey for the second generation of the Carranger helmet shown below.
That's all for now! I'll update the progress, as always, as soon as I can. Later!
Ahem!
11 days have passed since the printing process started on this helmet for the...wait a tick... How many times have I tried to print this helmet again? Hmm...Let's just say higher than ten, but less than 48. I lost count...
And along the way, just getting the right size was a chore on its own. Had a lot of "eureka!" moments and a lot of set backs. I have searched, studied, learned, and adapted to every possible way to improve on this object and after nearly 11 crazy, progressive effing months...
I can officially say, with out a shadow of a doubt, stage one of the physical stage is complete...again!
No, really this time! I made sure I double check the size before I printed it out! Check it out!
Every thing seen here has been carefully measured and tested in a virtual environment before printing. With these pieces separated, I can get a much cleaner paint job with out the worry of spraying too much on the surface for enough coverage. The other reason why I chose to separate them is because of this little idea I had in mind.
As you can see I created "female sockets" to six parts of the helmet. The "male pegs" will be used as place holders to hold the items in place after it's complete.
Finally, I tested trying on the helmet a couple of times and...
It still fits on my head with out any problems. In this photo, I was able to tape 4 pairs of neodymium magnets that I got from Micheal's Arts and Crafts store last year. The name of the brand is ProMag and these magnets at actually 3mm by themselves which makes them smaller than the magnets you see at hardware stores like Home Depot, Lowe's, and Ace Hardware. They were originally going to be used for my first failed cosplay last year, but I couldn't get it together in time. The helmet was able to keep everything in place with out any of the huge parts from separating.
However, it isn't with out errors. So during the sizing process when I was checking the measurements the slicer program, Cura, somehow changed the size of the horizontal length of the back part of the helmet. I thought I double checked to ensure that I didn't have universal sizing on, but I guess, I'm going to have to be more mindful in the future and type the values in.
It's blurry. I know, but you look over to your left, where the neck opening is, you can clearly see the elevation on the back of the helmet in comparison to the front. So at this point, it's 99 percent perfect.
I will now focus on the next stage of the process, sanding, repair, and paint prep. This will take me some time to finish since my work schedule this week will envelope most of my afternoon. I'll do what I can, but I need to get this done by Sunday to get it ready for the first layer of paint. The chase of getting a chrome finish for certain parts of the helmet is alluding me and if I don't make a decision soon, I will have to just spray them grey for the second generation of the Carranger helmet shown below.
That's all for now! I'll update the progress, as always, as soon as I can. Later!
3DVagabond
Active Member
It's 7:55 AM... Might as well do a update...
Okay. So for the past 2 months, I've been searching for a way to get the chrome paint in order to get that look from Carranger.
I've talk to a lot of people who made the helmets. I contacted four different companies on information on their products. Like Capt. Ahab from Moby Dick, I was chasing that "white whale" all over the net...
And came up with diddly squat! As mentioned before, Duplicolor, Rustoleum, VHT, and Molotow has told me the same fricken thing. Their products can't be clear coated with 2K Clear Coat. It's like Snoopy getting kicked out of places he wasn't meant to be and there's that deep voice bellowing after his expulsion saying, "Noooooooo Dogs Allowwwwwwwwwwed!"
... So unless I invest in an auto spray paint gun system or an airbrush kit, I'm screwed! No matter. I will continue on using the paints that I have knowing the info I learned at this point. Meanwhile, I'm on the fence on how to make this Fender Sword weapon. I can get the handle, but I have an issue with the guard. I don't know if I should use a 1/2 PVC pipe or not. I'm looking for videos on a simple way to make a rigid foam sword. The Helmet is coming along nicely. I've spent Friday and today filling out all possible layer lines and divets before I sand it down again before I lay down the filler primer. I'm still ahead of the curve and I just need to finalize every thing before I try to clear coat everything.
Until next time, see you around.
Okay. So for the past 2 months, I've been searching for a way to get the chrome paint in order to get that look from Carranger.
I've talk to a lot of people who made the helmets. I contacted four different companies on information on their products. Like Capt. Ahab from Moby Dick, I was chasing that "white whale" all over the net...
And came up with diddly squat! As mentioned before, Duplicolor, Rustoleum, VHT, and Molotow has told me the same fricken thing. Their products can't be clear coated with 2K Clear Coat. It's like Snoopy getting kicked out of places he wasn't meant to be and there's that deep voice bellowing after his expulsion saying, "Noooooooo Dogs Allowwwwwwwwwwed!"
... So unless I invest in an auto spray paint gun system or an airbrush kit, I'm screwed! No matter. I will continue on using the paints that I have knowing the info I learned at this point. Meanwhile, I'm on the fence on how to make this Fender Sword weapon. I can get the handle, but I have an issue with the guard. I don't know if I should use a 1/2 PVC pipe or not. I'm looking for videos on a simple way to make a rigid foam sword. The Helmet is coming along nicely. I've spent Friday and today filling out all possible layer lines and divets before I sand it down again before I lay down the filler primer. I'm still ahead of the curve and I just need to finalize every thing before I try to clear coat everything.
Until next time, see you around.
xXDashIVXx
Sr Member
That really sucks about the paint, but seeing your dedication through this, I know you will get there! Odinmakes has made a few swords using a few different options for rigidity in the core. The one I recall the most is he found a cheap golfclub at a thrift store and cut off the head of it, and used the thin rod as a center, while cutting a canal in the center of two foam wedges to sandwhich the rod inbetween.
3DVagabond
Active Member
I saw that. I'm going to have to do that method. However, I made some slight changes into the design for the sword. On the guard of the sword where the blade will connect, I've created a male socket where I will slide a 1/2 PVC Pipe into place once its wrapped in EVA foam. I will also check and see if any of the hardware stores have any fiberglass rods. If they do, I can go back and see if I can make adjustments to the guard before I start printing.
Hopefully this sword will be easier to create than the helmet.
3DVagabond
Active Member
I'm still surprised I was able to catch on with the method I using now. Surprisingly, both the top makers of the Power Rangers/Super Sentai series have actually used 3d printers in the process of making the helmets. The only difference is that they have created casts for duplicates of the helmets for future use. I've not gotten to that point yet, but I have studied into it. As right now, it is almost a proven concept. The main reason why was because I didn't want to wait nearly a year just to get one made. But after this helmet is complete, I will have to study it a bit more to find out how to find tune it later. Currently, this has been one gigantic on going tutorial! Once I get the sword handle and guard done, I'm going to...
Well, I'll do it on a different post tomorrow and show the thread what's in the future.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Alright, I know it's a late posting, but I think it's about time to see what I've worked on so far. Remember what I said about installing some lights in the helmet the next time I was printing it? Well, here's the practice circuit that I was working on.
Here's the set up with the lights off...
And here it is with the lights on.
These LED's are super bright on a 9 volt battery. It's the same type of LEDS that are used in battery powered flashlights. So the test circuit looks great. Just need to set the circuit up with a switch and the lighting system is ready. I'm going to create and test out another circuit for the Interior Cooling System in the not too distant future. But that's all I'm going to show for now. Turns out that fine tuning the sword is a bit difficult as I thought measure wise. I'll try to have some thing to show by at least Sunday, but don't hold me to it! Things can be delayed. Until next time, see you around!
Here's the set up with the lights off...
And here it is with the lights on.
These LED's are super bright on a 9 volt battery. It's the same type of LEDS that are used in battery powered flashlights. So the test circuit looks great. Just need to set the circuit up with a switch and the lighting system is ready. I'm going to create and test out another circuit for the Interior Cooling System in the not too distant future. But that's all I'm going to show for now. Turns out that fine tuning the sword is a bit difficult as I thought measure wise. I'll try to have some thing to show by at least Sunday, but don't hold me to it! Things can be delayed. Until next time, see you around!
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
As that battery drains expect the LEDs to dim slightly. Depending on your brand of battery expect the voltage you're seeing to drop to around 6.8-7.2V before it's done.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Interesting. I have a feeling that depending on how often the lights are used, I have at least 19 hours with a brand new store brand 9 volt battery with a resistor connection. If I'm wrong, I going to need all the info I can get. But, it's not going to be on all the time. Just in dark parts or for special requests.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
That's the best way of doing things honestly, then you're also not blinding passersby
If you do find that there's an issue with battery life you could always move to USB power banks and join the 5V suit power fan club.
3DVagabond
Active Member
You know what? I was thinking about using an USB Power bank for the lighting setup, but that's going to have to be in another generation of this helmet. I was also thinking about using a power bank for the cooling system, but I fear that I would have to make the helmet too big just to accommodate it. I will have to perform a virtual mock up of the helmet in the future to see where I need to place it.That's the best way of doing things honestly, then you're also not blinding passersby
If you do find that there's an issue with battery life you could always move to USB power banks and join the 5V suit power fan club.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
For my smaller buckets I run a line down the back of the neck and into a belt pouch with the power bank. Sure having to disconnect a plug (inline JST or similar) to take off your helmet completely is a bit of a pain but saving weight that your neck needs to support is always a win in my books.
3DVagabond
Active Member
I'll take that into consideration. I was hoping to find a more compact battery bank around the web, but due to the power needed just to charge things, that's going to a long wait before I can find one.
