I found this website about a week ago and was amazed at the work you guys do. I had to try it. Little did I know what I was getting myself into. So after 20 hours and swearing a bit I built this Ebony Helmet. Thanks to the OP for supplying the file and hooking me on a new project. It isn't perfect but I believe i can fix it. Which leads me to the next question, what do I do next to make it look like the real thing? What's the next step?
First off, welcome to the 405th. To get you started there are numerous "help" and "FAQ" threads in the "New Recruits" section. As for the next step at this point, once you've built the paper model (assuming you've used cardstock as opposed to normal printer paper, which is too thin for this), you'll want to get your hands on some resin. You have options here, the two most popular being fiberglass resin, which will require a well ventilated workspace, a respirator, and you'll likely want to invest in a box of rubber/nitrile gloves to keep it away from your skin. Not the most pleasant stuff to work with, obviously, but it gets the job done. The second most popular choice is known as Aqua resin, a far less "toxic" alternative to fiberglass resin. You'll still want ventilation, but you won't need a respirator. You'll also want some cheap brushes (cleaning hardened or even semi-hardened resin off of a brush can be tedious). Mix up the resin in small batches (don't want it hardening before you can use it) and
lightly brush it onto your helmet. I stress doing this in light coats because you don't want your piece to become saturated and start to warp.
Once you've coated the outside with resin, you again have some options to reinforce the inside. One is to use fiberglass mat/cloth, applied by brushing on a coat of resin to the inside, pressing the fiberglass into it (careful not to put too much pressure, you don't want to warp, or worse yet crack, your piece) and then brush another layer of resin on top of that. You'll want at least two layers of fiberglass, more depending on how thick you want your piece to be. But keep in mind, thick = rigid, and rigid means more likely to crack or snap if flexed too much. The second option for reinforcing the inside is known as the "rondo" method, rondo being an abbreviation for the combination to liquid resin and the more clay-like automotive body filler, of which Bondo is the most widely recognized brand, hence "Rondo." You'll want to mix up about a 50/50 blend (don't forget to add the recommended amount of hardener, otherwise it will never dry, only gel into a sticky mess), pour it into the hardened workpiece, and slowly tilt and slush it around to get as much coverage as possible. You'll likely have to mix up more than one batch, and like before, it's better to do too little at first than too much. If there's too much, it not only could take much longer to dry, but it might not dry all the way through if the mixture gets too thick in one area all at once. Better to mix up small batches and gradually build up layer upon layer as each one dries than to just dump half a pint in there and end up with a gooey mess.
That will get you off to a good start, after which you'll want to dig out the Bondo again and start spreading it over the outside (once again, moderation here will save you a lot of work and headaches later). This will help fill in any gaps created during the pep process as well as give your piece an overall smoother surface. Once the Bondo has hardened, break out the sandpaper. Start with a coarse grit (60-100) to take down areas that need a lot of material removed in order to be smooth, and work your way up to the finer grits. The higher the number, the finer the grit. The finer the grit, the less material is removed, but the resulting surface is smoother. You don't
have to work your way all the way up to the 1000++ grits, but they can be useful in the later (paint) stages.
Speaking of which, once you have your piece smoothed to satisfaction, lay down a coat of primer and check it over again. If there are any imperfections, primer and paint will intensify them. Don't ever buy into the lie that enough paint will cover any mistake. Better to put in the little bit of extra elbow grease to get it right in the early stages than to waste paint trying to fill in cracks, scratches, and pock marks. If you're finding a lot of new knicks or high spots, go back in with the Bondo and sandpaper and smooth it out. The cycle of bondo, sand, prime should be repeated as often as necessary to give yourself as unblemished a surface as possible to work with. Unless you want the piece to look dented, dinged, and otherwise worked over. In either case I cannot stress enough the importance of cleaning your workpiece thoroughly between sanding and priming. You want to get rid of all the dust, grit, sweat, grease, and any other contaminants before laying down the primer, otherwise it won't have a proper foundation to adhere to. Same applies when you're ready to move from primer to paint.
When you're finally ready for paint, the same old "less is more" approach still holds true. Better to do several light coats than one heavy coat that just ends up pooling, dripping, and running. That's a lot of work to clean up, and if it's not cleaned up, it's going to make an otherwise stellar piece look like crap. The silver filigree on the Ebony helmet is something you'll likely have to do by hand, either with a fine-tip brush or a fine-tip "paint marker." You could try to stencil it on with painter's tape, but that's still going to be tricky. Once you've laid down your colors (in this case, black and silver) you'll want to top it off with some clear coat (available in gloss, semi-gloss, and flat). You could spray on a couple coats and leave it like that, or you could spray on 4-7 coats and go in with a very high (1000 or more) grit sandpaper or sanding sponge. If you go with the sandpaper, make sure it's able to handle wet sanding, as that will give you an even smoother finish. If you really want to get ambitious and push the envelope, you could even go win with a microfiber cloth and some buffing/rubbing compound and really smooth and shine it up pretty.
I know I've already gone rather in-depth here but if you have more questions feel free to PM me or ask away at any of the relevant "help" threads (that's why they're there, so questions can get asked and answered). I don't want to detract or distract too much from the main purpose of this thread.