Sliced Foam H3 Shotgun WIP

Status
Not open for further replies.
Most people here are sane but if you run around with a shotgun someone might take you down. Or if you aim it at an animal or a tree an environmental will jump out of the bushes and tackle you. Especially if you have the second version which looks far more real with how the lights are set. I've seen this happen and joined in a few times to protect some animals but that's another story.

This is sort of a double question, several or one depending how you look at it, pertaining to both the suit and the gun. I've checked both of your How To and you don't really mention adding lights other then the mini ones for the helmet.
1. It doesn't look too bad putting it in but are there certain week points to avoid or can I install the lights normally like any other suit and weapon sighting?
2. Are there any precautions or things I can do to protect the wires, batteries, chips and such from taking too much damage or moving if I jump around or get pushed around in a crowd?
 
This is sort of a double question, several or one depending how you look at it, pertaining to both the suit and the gun. I've checked both of your How To and you don't really mention adding lights other then the mini ones for the helmet.
1. It doesn't look too bad putting it in but are there certain week points to avoid or can I install the lights normally like any other suit and weapon sighting?
2. Are there any precautions or things I can do to protect the wires, batteries, chips and such from taking too much damage or moving if I jump around or get pushed around in a crowd?

For lights in a foam suit you have a few options. You can install panels and LEDs just like in the fiberglass suits. You can drill or burn holes and mount flashlights. You can also drill holes and weave el-wire. Keep an eye on my foam suit thread to see the el-wire updates (pics taken, coming soon)

As for protecting the wires, I coat the solder points with hotglue, hotglue the wires in place and use plastic battery packs with covers and metal flashlights. Nothing moves as foam + copious hotglue + plastidip = durable. For the shotguns flashlight I would use 2 foam mounts like our version 2 has, it is less game accurate but far more durable. On version 1 I used only 1 mount and after a couple of conventions and a few dozen photoshoots the mount has become flexible and the flashlight tends to flop around.

And speaking of LED's I've added the tut vid for hollowing the sights for an LED and diffuser panel to the how-to page here: http://www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-weapons
 
I'm currently working on the foam shotgun from the tutorial posted on that squidoo.com page. Are you (Gamemaster) the one I credit for the patterns when I'm done?

Nvm, I got ahead of myself and hadn't gone through the entire thread. I'll post pics on my WIP thread sometime in the next couple of weeks and make sure to mention you and link to this thread.
 
I'm currently working on the foam shotgun from the tutorial posted on that squidoo.com page. Are you (Gamemaster) the one I credit for the patterns when I'm done?

Nvm, I got ahead of myself and hadn't gone through the entire thread. I'll post pics on my WIP thread sometime in the next couple of weeks and make sure to mention you and link to this thread.

Sounds good, you can also post your WIP link in this thread, put your WIP link in your signature and I can also link to your thread from the squidoo page too.
 
I am a bit curious as to what tip you used for doing something like the foam grip. I have the same tool you have but haven't found an add-on blade that gets hot enough to cut the foam mat cleanly.
 
I am a bit curious as to what tip you used for doing something like the foam grip. I have the same tool you have but haven't found an add-on blade that gets hot enough to cut the foam mat cleanly.

The blade I use came with an all-in-one hotknife, woodburning and soldering kit. The tool itself gets very hot, you may need a new or higher temp tool with a proper blade. For the grooved channels on the grip I mark guidlines first and cut them 5mm deep. I then mark lines on each side of the main guideline 5mm apart on each side. Next I cut the outside lines at a 45 degree angle, the tip of your knife should run down the bottom of your 5mm guideline cut. I hope this makes sense to you, there is also a short tut video on the weapons page where I demonstrate this method www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-weapons
 
I've gotten as far as the two barrels and front grip. I'll likely work on the top tonight as well as look for a way to stabilize the top broom handle. Not too many pictures have been taken since they'd be similar to what you've already posted. However, there are two currently in my WIP thread.

Excellent patterns by the way; they were definitely worth getting for someone with no foam crafting experience.
 
I look's great, I hope you post picks of the barrel soon.

liuying1.jpg

liuying2.jpg

liuying3.jpg
 
Thanks for the kudos, did some more work on it and I must say, it is starting to look fairly realistic. I'm using 10mm (1/2" for you Americans) foam but it needs reinforcement between layers or it is floppy. Length with barrel is 37"
Here are some pics
Picture2699.jpg

Bottom view
Picture2700.jpg

And I have a question, for this part under the barrel do I leave it hollow (is that where the empty shells pop out?) or can I put a light in there?
Picture2701.jpg

The "under barrel" is the magazine tube. In real life (given the scale) it would hold about eight rounds of 12 gauge. (the size of the shells on your "side saddle" In game I believe the shot gun uses 8 gauge, so in scale it would hold about 5.
Just a point of interest, since the end of "market hunting", 8 gauge guns are primarily used mounted on a tripod for breaking loose build up in smokestacks and in glass furnaces when they reline the glass pots.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top