Props Spartan Laser Metal & Fiberglass Airsoft Prop (Fully Functioning Electronic Replica)

[Rysjin7717]

Hey Red, glad happy new year brah to you & you're yours keep up th' good work.

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2

 

[Redshirt]

Metal Crafting!

Happy New Year!

Big progress this week building the prominent metal knobs that go on the side of the H3 Spartan Laser. If these aren't sharp looking, the whole thing will be crap. Wish I had a mill, this would be easy, but I don't. That means that, once again, I take take my life in my hands with the router as a metal-working tool. Here goes:

I bonded two thick pieces together with hot melt glue, and cut the basic shape.

On the left are two thinner pieces bonded together and ready to cut. The pair of thick pieces is on the right.

Now the thin pieces are cut out. I used a drill press and files to cut and shape the hole.

I debonded and cleaned up the hot melt glue and paired up the complete sets (one thick and one thin per set).

I used JB Weld to bond the pairs. I had to go this route of laminating metal because I have no means (a mill) of cutting a pocket in metal.

The assembled blanks ready for further machining.

Once again I put on heavy clothes, welding gloves, as well as eye and ear protection before trying to cut the outside bevels using the router table. Rough cut on the first one, so far, so good . . . .

. . . . But then the wife came out to find out what the loud "WHACK" was against the wall!

Oops! The router grabbed one piece and propelled it with mighty force against the garage wall. This section of wall has the drywall backed by plywood or I might have had to open up the wall to get my part back

Here they are with all the routing done.

So shiny! I used the air file and needle files to clean up the bevels. Here are the cleaned-up knobs. They will get a fine sanding and buff later, followed by electroplating in brushed nickel to make them tougher, and because it's cool. That project is down the road though. Next up are the other parts associated with these knobs.

Once again, thanks for the assistance of Echo1. Their spare parts and boneyard stuff have really helped me keep this moving.
http://www.echo1parts.com/

Redshirt

 

[Gumption 117]

Man, amazing work as usual!

Oddly enough, I have that very same mark in a gyprock wall, but not nearly as a cool story how I made it ... it was just moving furniture

I know what you mean about needing a mill ... I got a few toys for christmas (for when I start my MC build) and once you start realising what tools you need in the garage, you'll start needing to sell the shirt off your own back to buy them all!

 

[Mstruvmgc]

Well glad to hear you didnt get into trouble with the tag lol.
The pieces for the outside of the spartan lazer look fantastic, they will keep the piece that much more awesome

and on behalf of myself and im sure everyone on the 405th, thanks for risking your life with your router and making something so awesome! keep up the great work man

 

[Redshirt]

Man, amazing work as usual!

Oddly enough, I have that very same mark in a gyprock wall, but not nearly as a cool story how I made it ... it was just moving furniture

The pieces for the outside of the spartan lazer look fantastic, they will keep the piece that much more awesome

and on behalf of myself and im sure everyone on the 405th, thanks for risking your life with your router and making something so awesome! keep up the great work man

Thanks guys, just trying to keep this long build entertaining by interspersing some element of personal danger.


Here is the first of a couple of updates on the rest of the mechanism associated with the shiny knobs from the last update. I'm going to use these as a latching mechanism to hold down the mid shroud. I'll need easy and frequent access to the area under the mid shroud for BB refills and basic maintenance so so I need a sturdy, but easy latch that's secure. I considered a sliding latch, but concluded it would put wear and tear on the paint job as well as be too easy to knock open without adding a secondary safety catch. In the end, I decided to go with spring-loaded pull pins through the half cylinders. Not at all obvious in this update, but I'll have the rest in a couple of days.

Here's the area we're talking about.

I split 1 inch aluminum tubing and used two overlapping pieces to build each piece.

This let me build up the details. I bonded these together with JB Weld, then used the bench sander to tidy up the edges.

Inside each assembly, I bonded two small blocks of aluminum for screws to tap into from the underside. This took a couple of try to get an acceptable bond.

I wanted this whole thing to be a removable component with some strength, so I cut out a backing piece to add strength and used it to build up the latch assembly. This is actually the pair of of backing plates bonded together for machining in all of these photos. That is why it looks so thick.

You see where this is all going.

To build up the other details, I split 1/4 inch round stock on the band saw--No easy feat!

Here are some of those details going into place.

Better look at those details. You can see that I've taken a notch out of the backing piece. Eventually, a tab that sticks down from the mid shroud will slide into this area where the spring pin will engage and lock it.

Bringing it all home. Here's the work so far up against a picture of the intended result. I'll detail the latch in a couple of days.

Redshirt

 

[GuitarMaster157]

Beautiful as always! Even cooler when I see the comparison with the reference!

 

[Redshirt]

Beautiful as always! Even cooler when I see the comparison with the reference!

Thanks Guitarmaster. Good point about references, I will try to give more reference shots. That is specially true as I'm building the H3 Splaser. In my mind, it's still the best (and the only one wide enough in the middle to fit three complete airsoft mechanisms).

Lots of pics here to finish up the pin-pull mechanism that will lock down the mid shroud. It took a lot of brain work to get this solution.

First, machining the solid blocks that go on the rear of the assembly. They got quite hot at times. These are nice and thick, allowing me to sink an attachment screw in later.

All the components laid out.

Here's the whole assembly together--shacked together, not yet screwed together. You can see where the protruding edges of the backing plate need cut back.

Beauty shot #1 looking at everything along the side.

Beauty shot #2 showing how the mid shroud will butt against it.

Beauty shot #3 The whole shebang!

I still needed to finish the pin-pull latch, but was having a hard time figuring out a flange on the pin shaft for a spring to engage. Then it hit me, use a pop rivet! I also had trouble with my pin rotating and looking sloppy. Here's the solution:

I drilled a micro hole through the caps of my steel pull pins and bonded in a section of a sewing pin. I also drilled a tiny pilot holes in the half cylinders to match. No easy feat, but, presto, a pin that stays aligned!

I widened the hole in the tops of two rivets and tapped them to match the threads on my pins.

Some JB Weld and steel wire down the center of the rivet for strength and, viola', my pull pins are ready for installation.

I bonded in cross pieces into the backing plates and drilled alignment holes for the pins. The cross pieces will help keep the tab from the mid shroud aligned as it slides into place as well as further stabilize the business end of the pull pin.

Test assembled (with the wrong style screws). It took a couple of tries adjusting the springs (length and tension) to get the right range of motion and resistance, but eventually nailed it. Here you can see just how little the pin protrudes to do it's job. A lot of work for 1/8 of an inch of movement.

It's going to be a bit before I actually add the lock tabs to the mid-shroud, but you'll see when I do. I'm working on the other exterior details right now.

Thanks for looking,
Redshirt

 

[spartansonny]

holy mother of beauty. this has to be the best weapon prop I have ever seen! Very nice work, awesome attention to detail, and awesome sauce all the way around!

 

[Redshirt]

holy mother of beauty. this has to be the best weapon prop I have ever seen! Very nice work, awesome attention to detail, and awesome sauce all the way around!

Thanks! It's not the best weapon prop ever--yet. But, I'm aiming for just that. What started out as an accessory to my armor has far exceeded that project in time, cost, and effort.

Redshirt

 

[TheReconSpartan]

Thanks! It's not the best weapon prop ever--yet. But, I'm aiming for just that. What started out as an accessory to my armor has far exceeded that project in time, cost, and effort.

Redshirt

HAHA I love the--yet part, and you can definitly back it up!

 

[S15Costuming]

Dude, that Spartan Laser looks amazing!!! :O I...I can't say anything else that hasn't been said...you are doing an awesome job on the Spartan Laser!!!

Also, is it true that you are in Pensacola? :\

 

[Redshirt]

HAHA I love the--yet part, and you can definitly back it up!

Thanks!

Dude, that Spartan Laser looks amazing!!! :O I...I can't say anything else that hasn't been said...you are doing an awesome job on the Spartan Laser!!!

Also, is it true that you are in Pensacola? :\

Thank you as well. I am in the Pensacola area.


Continuing with external details: This time it's the big round dials at the rear of the Spartan Laser. Originally, these were going the be the winding mechanism for the airsoft BB feeds, but I've decided to make a motorized winder like a box magazine for an M60. So, these will be non-functional, but removable.

I started by trying to cut disks with a hole saw. Didn't work so I had to cut these by clamping the metal to a spinning arbor on the drill press and holding a metal cutting saw blade against it until it had scored the metal enough to break it, leaving me with fairly symmetrical pieces and a straightforward job of clean up. This project seems to involve a lot of spinning metal.

I glued on the backing disks with JB Weld. I couldn't risk warpage or deforming by actually welding the parts as I would have liked.

I cut interior and exterior grip surfaces and machined them for symmetry.

I bonded the interior grips in place.

And set about grooving in details into the outer grips before also gluing them on.

Here's a test fit before grinding off the excess and adding a bevel to the edge of the outer grip.

Here's a wider picture, including the completed pin latch. Getting there!

All done and with the first coat of primer. I use a special high-build primer that fills imperfections and softens details while leaving and easy sand layer on top to aid block sanding.

Lots of work going on with the front shroud working toward the fitment of airsoft barrels as well as the outer barrel familiar to fans of the Splaser.

Redshirt

 

[spartansonny]

i just pee'd myself................ So gorgeous

 

[soul products]

seriously, i call dibs on getting shot first.....seriously

 

[BiGHARYSCOTSMiN]

They better call their hits on this one

I sure will

 

[S15Costuming]

That's good to know, you need to let me or any of the Stony Prop guys know if you plan to go to South Florida anytime soon for a convention! I want to touch it...in a totally non-sexual way, of course! XD

I also wanted to say that my brother and I painted and modded a Buzz Bee Toys Belt Blaster dart gun like the one shown here, but it will NEVER be as awesome as yours!!!

Since the handle you grip onto the front of the toy moves back and forth, my brother used Krazy Glue and "stuffed" foamies inside the gun so it can't move.

Here is some of the pictures so you can see what I mean:

with the v1 Chief Suit:

and here is our Spartan Laser with the v2 Chief Suit:

I wanted to try installing a LED to go from dim to bright to make it look a bit more game accurate, would you happen to have any advice to how I should attempt it?

 

[Redshirt]

That's good to know, you need to let me or any of the Stony Prop guys know if you plan to go to South Florida anytime soon for a convention! I want to touch it...in a totally non-sexual way, of course! XD

I also wanted to say that my brother and I painted and modded a Buzz Bee Toys Belt Blaster dart gun like the one shown here, but it will NEVER be as awesome as yours!!!

I wanted to try installing a LED to go from dim to bright to make it look a bit more game accurate, would you happen to have any advice to how I should attempt it?

Thank you. You did a good job with a toy and making it look good as a costume accessory. I think weathering would further disguise its origins. There are some good stickies on that. There are a number of steam punkers that have achieved outstanding results painting and modifying Nerf guns to accompany their costumes. As far as making a progressively brightening LED effect, I'd propably cluster LEDs inside the barrel that lighted sequentially, thus cumulatively getting brighter. An LED tail light bulb like I'm using is not terribly expensive. Having it illuminating at the end of the sequence would cap it nicely, producing an amazingly bright (but harmless unlike a laser) directional beam would be cool. That Decade over in the 'Help For Electronics' sticky in the Noob Forum will give you the best advice. I would think a kit could solve your brightening LED question. The LED tail light runs at voltages around 12 volts, which will not be the same as an electronics package (5 volts). That works for my setup because I'm already running a dual-voltage system, but would needlessly complicate your circuits. That Decade will help you avoid reinventing the wheel. He has a knack for elegant solutions. Good luck, and thanks for following my build. I'll post an update tonight featuring the turned aluminum barrel--very pretty!

Redshirt

 

[Redshirt]

i just pee'd myself................ So gorgeous

Too funny. Thanks!

seriously, i call dibs on getting shot first.....seriously

I'll PM you when it's time to make the test & demonstration videos.

They better call their hits on this one

I sure will

The goal is for there to be little room for confusion on whether you were hit or not. I think I will achieve this.


OK, more shiny metal bits tonight. This update covers the making of the barrel from a big aluminum pipe. This will later get cut down to just the exposed bits to facilitate fitting the three airsoft barrels and the massive LED back light inside. In the meantime, it is a ginormous piece of turned aluminum.

As is usual for this project, I didn't have the right tools for the job so I had to improvise. The right tool would have been a lathe. Not in my shop, but I do have a drill press. The questions you should be asking are: How do you mount a giant pipe onto a drill press and how do you keep it from being flung off into space?

I started with an arbor for a sanding drum--essentially a short cylinder of rubber with a shaft through the middle that widens slightly when the nut is tightened on it to hold a sanding drum. I mounted one up on the drill dress, set it in motion and hit it with the belt sander until it would fit inside my pipe. Presto! Now I have a pipe mounted to the drill press. I can change the speed of the press by reconfiguring the belt and pulleys up top, so I set it to spin slowly. I then used saw blades and files to shape the grooves in the barrel blank.

Start with a very beat-up piece of pipe and cut out the front nozzle and main section with the band saw.

Mount up the short piece and use the file to taper the spinning metal into a cone shape.

mount up the main section and smooth and shape it.

Metal saw blades cut the fine grooves.

Quick test fit of the crude item.

Using a milling table crudely mounted to the base of the drill press, drill the divots between the grooves, them use the dial adjust feature to cut progressively deeper grooves where required. Remember, the shaft and bearings in a drill press are not designed for side loads, so the press is not at all capable of substituting for a milling machine. To avoid damaging the machine, I had to be very show and ginger in my cuts to not cause the shaft to come unseated. I've done that before, it inevitably destroys the workpiece--NOT GOOD!

Fitted in place!

After completing the machining, we used progressively finer grades of sandpaper to transform the ugly secondhand pipe surface into this! Here the nozzle is temporarily mounted. My sons and I looked at it and said--lightsaber!!

After it is cut down to clear the other components, different segments will get different finishes. Some will be gunmetal, others polished. The two sections with the machined grooves will be electroplated copper.


Until next time,
Redshirt

 

[spartansonny]

1. that barrel turned out SO SMEXY BRO! good job on turning it with a drill press.
2. i see an arizona license plate, my home state you still here in az? or some other place and that plate is just a rememberance of here? if you are here, we should get together with all the other AZ 405ers at a con and you should tote that work of art around and look like a complete B.A.!!

 

[Mstruvmgc]

Looks like a lightsaber handle lol. Great job on the barrel red. Its amazing what you accomplish