chaos cre8ions
New Member
I would not have thought of that. I know when the wood was in the oven for 20 minutes, it started getting too hot to touch.
Starting my ODST build
- Thread starter chaos cre8ions
- Start date
chaos cre8ions
New Member
I feel like PET and PETG are easy to mix up on the first run or two.Love the way this is looking dude, keep up the good work.
I like the concept you have going on with the glow in the dark, it's a unique nice touch
Also don't beat yourself up over the wrong plastic, I did the same thing when first making my visor. I accidentally bought PET instead of PETG plastic lol.
BlazingForge
Active Member
people commonly mix the two or sometimes from what I've heard companies will sometimes accidentally send PET instead of PETG. its a very common mistake!
chaos cre8ions
New Member
Dang! I did not know that!
- Member DIN
- S410
Just chiming in on the convo now. First of all, love the setup!
As others pointed out, PETG will be friendlier for vacuum forming. Acrylic is much more brittle and prone to cracking/shattering when removing it from the buck.
Be very careful when purchasing PETG from amazon. I have seen folks in the past purchase from amazon assuming the plastic is pure PETG, when it turns out there are other plastics mixed in. McMaster Carr is a good reliable place to purchase PETG if you can't find a cheaper alternative on amazon.
www.mcmaster.com
Since you may have to wait a minute for the new plastic to arrive, I'd also suggest giving your buck one last round of filler and sanding. I can see a few layer-line-like bumps near the sides of your acrylic pull that may make it harder to see out of.
As others pointed out, PETG will be friendlier for vacuum forming. Acrylic is much more brittle and prone to cracking/shattering when removing it from the buck.
Be very careful when purchasing PETG from amazon. I have seen folks in the past purchase from amazon assuming the plastic is pure PETG, when it turns out there are other plastics mixed in. McMaster Carr is a good reliable place to purchase PETG if you can't find a cheaper alternative on amazon.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Since you may have to wait a minute for the new plastic to arrive, I'd also suggest giving your buck one last round of filler and sanding. I can see a few layer-line-like bumps near the sides of your acrylic pull that may make it harder to see out of.
chaos cre8ions
New Member
I’ll order the next set of plastic. Which filler would you recommend?Just chiming in on the convo now. First of all, love the setup!
As others pointed out, PETG will be friendlier for vacuum forming. Acrylic is much more brittle and prone to cracking/shattering when removing it from the buck.
Be very careful when purchasing PETG from amazon. I have seen folks in the past purchase from amazon assuming the plastic is pure PETG, when it turns out there are other plastics mixed in. McMaster Carr is a good reliable place to purchase PETG if you can't find a cheaper alternative on amazon.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Since you may have to wait a minute for the new plastic to arrive, I'd also suggest giving your buck one last round of filler and sanding. I can see a few layer-line-like bumps near the sides of your acrylic pull that may make it harder to see out of.
- Member DIN
- S410
For a visor buck I'll typically cover it with bondo glazing and spot putty and sand it smooth with up to 400 grit sandpaper. The spot putty will take care of the large print lines, and then after that I'll spray it with an thick filler primer and sand it again to get the really fine bumps smoothed out.
JamesAdams
New Member
chaos cre8ions
New Member
I will be grabbing some Bondo and primer this weekend to work on that. Does anyone have a recommendation for primer?
I've been using Rust-Oleum Automotive Filler Primer on my armor. You can buy it at Lowes and Home Depot. Oh, and make sure it says Filler and not something else like "Self Etching." Nearly made my way to the cash register before realizing my mistake.
TheBigC
New Member
Like YTunz mentioned the Rustoleum filler primer is great. There's a slightly different one they have that's a 2 in 1 filler and sandable primer I like too especially if you're planning to so a few rounds of sanding on the pieces
chaos cre8ions
New Member
Since I will be using this on my forming buck, I don't want to go too thick right?
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
The thickness of the coat shouldn't matter since it will be sanded back down. Generally you want to spray filler primer on a bit thicker than regular spray paint to make sure it fills in the gaps.
chaos cre8ions
New Member
chaos cre8ions
New Member
After the bondo hardens hit it with a sander, and then hit it with the primer?
Last edited:
- Member DIN
- S410
Yep if you have bondo already on, sand it down. If there are still some print lines and smaller imperfections hit it with some filler primer and sand it again.
Sometimes I'll do primer and bondo both before sanding if there's a lot of work to do. Just keep repeating these steps until the piece is as smooth as you want it.
Onyx Props
Active Member
Yes. You may need to do a round of wet sanding with finer grit sand paper also, depending on how it turns out. May be over kill, but I always like to do a pass or two just to make sure it's as smooth as glass.
Onyx Props
Active Member
Exactly! I've only worked with a 3d print once for my Mandalorian helmet, but I did about 6 different passes with increasing finer grits of sand paper every time. I was making it for the MMCC, and there are requirements for quality so it definitely pushed me to put the work in.
