This is my first Mark VI build so far, let me know what you think so far. :)

[bking36]

Wow this is nice! I had a question, did you use bondo over most of the helmet, or only on specific areas? I am currently at the bondo stage, and am unsure as to whether or not cover the entire helmet in bondo.

 

[Gforce598]

bking,
To answer your question, yes. Nearly the entire helmet was covered with bondo. I worked with it one area at a time untill satisfied. Alot of sanding was done using a palm sander and using drywall mesh sand paper to reduce the cakeing of the paper when using normal sand paper. Part of the trick is takinng your time and mixing the bondo correctly. The better your pep skills the better the results will be. The area with the least mud is the center section of the helmet as this area was pretty flat after resin and glass. Hope that helps. Later, Gforce598

 

[King Ramna]

@gforce598
Do you sand soon after it cures for 30 mins or so? I waited to sand a day later and it was really hard. I was tod you are suppose to do it right after it cures for easier sanding, is that true?

 

[Gforce598]

If you have mixed your filler and hardner with the correct ratios your filler should be virtualy completely cured after a half hour but is a good rule of thumb for sanding I would have to say if you can not push your thumb nail into the bondo it should be hard enough to sand. As far as it being easier sooner that is a load of BS if you ask me, lol and you did.!! If you your like to help get a general shape of your part quick you can use a knife of some type i.e. utilitie to cut the bondo off like whittling. I will sometimes do this if I have a clearly high spot or what have you. This can be done while the mud is curing if carefull enough sometimes you can use your bondo card to remove some excess material also. Hope that helps answer the question.

 

[thathalodude]

wow, nice helmet, you really got the feeling in on the weathering for the paint, looks pretty realistic

 

[NayrDeath]

Nice job! I'm gonna have to try that mesh sander idea when I sand my helmet!

 

[Gforce598]

Thanks Yeh I start sanding with 80 grit mesh and then finish with 120 and after priming I sand with finer grit paper. I got five strips of mesh from Harbor Frieght for I think it was 2.50 On a palm sander it is enough for 10 pieces but seems to last longer then normal paper even the cloth backed stuff; and, when it gets dull you can flip it over to get more use out of it too! lol can me cheap but I like to get the most out of it.

 

[xBeaver Feaver]

Awesome job! I would never had guessed it was a first build. I can only hope that mine turns out as well. If you dont mind me asking, what did you use for the hose (?) on the lower front right and left vents? Also did you make your own visor or adapt a motorcycle helmet visor?

Again, excellent job.

 

[wiyumishere]

How did you make the coil things on the jawline of the helmet? not sure if you answered this already but it looks amazing and would like to know how you did it. foam or piping?

 

[Gforce598]

Again thanks for all the compliments. To answer your questions regarding the tubing looking parts on the side of the jaw area on the helmet. I used plastic wire loom material that was about an inch in diameter. First take your piece of wire loom and cut it in half try to get it as close to exact as you can. I used a good pair of sissors to cut along the molded seam mark from when it was made as a guide and then made my second cut along the other side. Then when you have both pieces you need to trim them to fit. Make sure to not install them until last or they will get nasty from over spray sanding ect. I glued the pieces in place by putting a heavy bead of hot glue into the recessed area and then pressing the pre fit piece into place. As for the shield, yes it is a gold motorcycle visor purchased from ebay for 24$ carefully cut after taping off the area I wanted to cut and marked with a Sharpie. I used a cut off wheel on mmy dremel tool to do this make sure you use the heavier duty looking kind that has the cris crossing fibers on it or it will not survive the cuts you need to make. The one I used looks like a normal air cut off wheel used for cutting metal but it is smaller made for dremel tools. The visor is held in place presently with strips of velcro to allow it to be removed. I had toyed with the idea of making the visor flip up like a normal helmet would but have not put the effort into do so and may never will at this rate. Alot of work to do on the rest of the project. I am in the process of doing the chest piece and back so I will up some pics sometime soon of the progress on those. Hope that helps. Any other questions, let me know Gforce598

 

[LongShot X]

the only armor i prefer than this on the site is longshot-x's accept for him your the best

Thanks!

Thanks again, And yes I did use craft foam on the underside of the brim and the rear of the helmet as well. This foam has a self adheasive backing and holds up great to paint ect. and also stretches great around curved surfaces as well.

That's what I want to do to my helm. To add some craft foam instead of my rushed paint job. Otherwise you have an epic made helm!

BTW: I like the blue color your going with!

Cheers!

 

[Gforce598]

Thanks LongShot-X I could only hope my build comes out close to yours. I am not entirely finished with it yet have to make linner for the padding and install the leds and lenses. I will eventually make a new Helm since I am not completely satisfied with the pep work core. I.E. brim is not straight and the rounded areas in the side of the helmet are not shaped as they should be but unless you really know what it supposed to look like not many people would notice. As for the foam it works really sweet. I got the stuff with the adheasive backing on it and it sticks really well even help up to painting without letting go and I even resued the stuff from the underside of the brim when I had to repaint the thing. LOL

 

[LongShot X]

... I will eventually make a new Helm since I am not completely satisfied with the pep work core...

Same here... I have some warpage that I'm not happy with. Then again nobody would notice unless they knew what to look for.

Keep up the fantastic work your doing.

 

[Gforce598]

Thanks again
I was just checking out your site digging some of the pics. I love the lighting on the suit I am working on my chest now ans have been toying with the idea of sprayable filler over most of it to help not have to smooth on the mud in the small areas. It can be such a pain and tedious at times. LOL

 

[Gforce598]

Also toying with the idea of using the steel toe tips from some of my old boots on the outside of the boot covers to save any damage from the covers them selfs. Just got that idea after looking at your kneeling pic. Thanks again Longshot

 

[LongShot X]

OHHH I like that idea with the steel toe tips. I'll have to concider that the next time I do some boots.

That's why I love these forums. It's all about sharing the ideas.

As for the lights... yea... my jaw still hits the floor when I look at myself in the mirror with all the gear on and lit up.
I have been told countless times that the pics are fantastic but seeing the suit for real and in person is even more AWESOME. Can't wait to get out and do more public outings.

I have not tried the sprayable filler. Instead I just used the primer and sprayed it on till it was about to run. Then I would let it dry and then sand it down with 400 grit paper. worked out well.

 

[Gforce598]

I bet the suit looks awesome I have a few pairs of old boots to get the steel from. I was thinking of cutting the toe from the pep and finishing the coevrs like that then attaching them to new boots with the steel glued or rivoted to the outside of the boot. Unless you can advise against it.

 

[LongShot X]

I bet the suit looks awesome I have a few pairs of old boots to get the steel from. I was thinking of cutting the toe from the pep and finishing the coevrs like that then attaching them to new boots with the steel glued or rivoted to the outside of the boot. Unless you can advise against it.

All I can say is try it and see what happens. I have done quite a few experiments with my boots (foaming the boots) and got lucky with the results. In fact they are so durable that I played soccer with them. The toe caps are still solid and have no dammage. The only concern that I could see is that the width of the steel toes may not be the right size for the outer side of the toe caps. Again youll have to take some measurments and experiment with them. My guess is that you'll need to pep a few low def toe caps and test them for sizing. At least that's where I would start.

 

[Gforce598]

I agree, again thanks for the advise. I have a welder also so if I needed to split the toe steel and weld a piece in the center to make the width correct I can do that too. Just don't want to deal with any paint damage or glass cracking ect. that might occur in that area. I also am looking to try something different instead of the usual plunger approach for the flexing areas eventually I will get there..lol just trying to take my time so I dont need to redo any of the pieces again. I suppose even using the outside of my old boot as an anvil and hammering some aluminum sheet to fit might be an option as well who knows the skys the limit when it comes to imagination i guess As always any input and advise is always appreciated.

 

[Propcustomz]

everything is looking greay so far. keep it up.