- Member DIN
- S970
Sweet, it looks good. I can't wait to see some printed helmet parts!
3D printed mkVI build (Citruspers)
- Thread starter Citruspers
- Start date
Citruspers
Member
Well, no helmet parts yet because my printer broke again. Another broken lead in one of the drag chains, which is a pain to repair. I think it's time to re-do the wiring as it's clear they're just wearing out.
Meanwhile I did finish wetsanding the front and back armor panels to 800grit, so when they're dry I think I can move to painting:
Looks like a pencil sketch, lol
Meanwhile I did finish wetsanding the front and back armor panels to 800grit, so when they're dry I think I can move to painting:
Looks like a pencil sketch, lol
- Member DIN
- S970
Very nice! A pencil sketch style might be a cool paint job to try one day.
Citruspers
Member
Some more progress: I decided I've had enough of sanding the front and back armor parts; any remaining imperfections will hopefully get lost in my weathering job. So it was time for one last coat of primer, followed by a coat of silver that should make scratches etc look a bit more realistic:
I've also settled on a color: RAL6011, Reseda Green, which is very close to the Halo 3 in-game armor color and also a bit subdued:
I've also settled on a color: RAL6011, Reseda Green, which is very close to the Halo 3 in-game armor color and also a bit subdued:
- Member DIN
- S970
Looks great, I can't see any seams what so ever!
adognamedRunt
New Member
This build is amazing, and thank you for sharing both your successes, struggles, and your own mistakes. Im excited to see your build and see what i am able to do with my printer following behind you on my armor. Those clear lenses for the helmet are awesome.
Citruspers
Member
Thanks mate! I'm watching your thread, looking forward to seeing the results.
Regarding the lenses: when I finish the design I'll probably upload them somewhere so more people can use them if they want
Citruspers
Member
Progress update: the paint arrived!
First coat in Reseda Green looked a bit too clean and vibrant, so after it dried I finished it with a very light metallic black coat to give it some more depth.
There's some splotches where my paint application wasn't all too even, but I suppose I'll just use use those as a base for plasma scorching when I start weathering the thing
First coat:
Second light metallic black coat
Next steps: adding in notches/dowels, glueing in webbing and buckles and weathering the whole thing.
First coat in Reseda Green looked a bit too clean and vibrant, so after it dried I finished it with a very light metallic black coat to give it some more depth.
There's some splotches where my paint application wasn't all too even, but I suppose I'll just use use those as a base for plasma scorching when I start weathering the thing
First coat:
Second light metallic black coat
Next steps: adding in notches/dowels, glueing in webbing and buckles and weathering the whole thing.
spartan Mclark
Member
wow thats very good is that a gen 1 or gen 3 mkvi?
Citruspers
Member
Thanks! It's the Chief's armor set from Halo 3, so it should be Gen1.
spartan Mclark
Member
yea i thought so it looks great!
Citruspers
Member
Did some weathering and detailing, pretty happy with how it turned out
If anyone's wondering what I did:
* Expose the base silver coat with some 800 grit sanding paper, including most edges
* Scratch the thing to hell with 80 grit sandpaper
* Hit it with a screwdriver to create dimples
* Use said screwdriver to create deeper scratches
* Put a tiny dab of black acrylic paint on a paper towel, and rub it into the scratches and dimples, creating a dirty, scorched look in the process.
If anyone's wondering what I did:
* Expose the base silver coat with some 800 grit sanding paper, including most edges
* Scratch the thing to hell with 80 grit sandpaper
* Hit it with a screwdriver to create dimples
* Use said screwdriver to create deeper scratches
* Put a tiny dab of black acrylic paint on a paper towel, and rub it into the scratches and dimples, creating a dirty, scorched look in the process.
- Member DIN
- S970
It's looking great you've gotten a lot of progress in in such a short time!Did some weathering and detailing, pretty happy with how it turned out
If anyone's wondering what I did:
* Expose the base silver coat with some 800 grit sanding paper, including most edges
* Scratch the thing to hell with 80 grit sandpaper
* Hit it with a screwdriver to create dimples
* Use said screwdriver to create deeper scratches
* Put a tiny dab of black acrylic paint on a paper towel, and rub it into the scratches and dimples, creating a dirty, scorched look in the process.
View attachment 324543
Citruspers
Member
Friendly reminder to use tree supports in Cura. 72g part, 15g support structure, printed in under 4 hours and the supports removed itself in one pull.
Now let's see about glueing that helmet together.....
Now let's see about glueing that helmet together.....
CasuallyFlacid
Member
- Member DIN
- S121
Damn, that filler does wonders. I used it on my whole set and after wet sanding for months..... worth it.
Citruspers
Member
Progress updates
Base coat in Reseda green
Helmet after weathering, adding grime, etc
Helmet and armor after giving it a light dusting of silver, to make the plastic look more like metal. In the shade it looks matte green, but when it catches direct light, it turns silver-ish.
Base coat in Reseda green
Helmet after weathering, adding grime, etc
Helmet and armor after giving it a light dusting of silver, to make the plastic look more like metal. In the shade it looks matte green, but when it catches direct light, it turns silver-ish.
- Member DIN
- S970
Your armor is looking good! Your process for weathering turns out great!Progress updates
Base coat in Reseda green
View attachment 325582
Helmet after weathering, adding grime, etc
View attachment 325581
Helmet and armor after giving it a light dusting of silver, to make the plastic look more like metal. In the shade it looks matte green, but when it catches direct light, it turns silver-ish.View attachment 325580
Citruspers
Member
* happy progress noises*
What do you think, wideangle lens on top, or at the bottom? Or only use the same lens 4x (and if so, which one)?
What do you think, wideangle lens on top, or at the bottom? Or only use the same lens 4x (and if so, which one)?
MistyFox
Member
I think you should use the lense with the lines through it on all 4, it makes it look more militaristic!
Citruspers
Member
I just tried it, and I think you're right.
I think having two different lenses makes more sense in a practical manner (as you'd get a wide and narrow beam), but using identical lenses looks better.It also adds some additional detailing, and I presume it will also help hide the LEDs mounted behind it (which I've yet to do).
