Finally getting around to posting my progress thread of my MK VI armor. I am using 110 lb cardstock. For the most part the files are MrOreos unfolds and I do my raised relief detailing with sheet styrene. My preferred method of construction after pep is to do two coats of fiberglass resin on the outside of the pepped piece This makes a nice sealing layer for the outside of the cardstock. I then pour small batches of casting resin purchased from Silpak.com. I gently hand rotocast this until the entire inside is coated. The resin soaks into the inside layer of the cardstock and bonds to it essentialy in the way it would fiberglass matt. I am able to do this in about two or so coats until I have the desired thickness and strength. It aso leaves the inside of the pieces glass smooth, so no annoying fiberglass spikes to deal with. My parts are VERY durable and strong. I have had to work on this project off and on due to my business which is DragonfyreEntertainment.com So progress will be off and on between working on customer jobs.
Note the symmetry on the helmet pep. I tend to reinforce broad surface area pieces by glueing a second layer of 110 cardstock to the inside as I am building the piece. This hels to avoid warpage and creates a sturdier more crisp model.I also swear by using Zap A Gap medium thickness cyranoacrylite glue. I also keep a bottle of spray Zip Kicker handy. I run a bead of the CA glue along my seam, press the edges together and then wipe with a paper towel...this helps to draw the moisture of the CA glue into the adhereing pieces and makes it set fast and also hardens that joined adge. This causes my seams to become a support structure and also helps to insure that my pep is more rigid and stable than other glueing methods. Before people speculate and have wild theories be advised I have worked profesionaly in film and television doing props and costumes for over ten years so that is where most of my experience using materials comes from.
Torso appears large as it is on a female mannequin form, and I am also not exactly a small guy.
I decided to scratchbuild the handback out of styrene as I could get sharper detail than my pep was yielding. This was then molded in silicone and then cast in resin.
These bicep and shoulder pieces will get super detailed with sheet styrene to add in the crisp ridges and plate details. I prefer the control I get over the detail sharpness by adding that in after the base pep shape is done. These parts are still in progress.
Forearms being built up. Details are a combination of sheet styrene and epoxy putty.
Forearms detailed and sanded. Base coated in light grey sandable primer.
Painted and weathered, still a little more detail paint to be added later.
Upper legs pepped. I had to splice more cardstock into the inner thigh area as my thighs are thicker than the scale would allow for. I may still end up removing the inner thigh ridges and later sculpting them and casting in latex just for ease and comfort of moving around at conventions. I hate armor bites. Again thank you to MrOreo for his unfolds as they are ideal for the way I tend to finish of my pieces!
So there is obviously still a massive amount of work to be done. My goal is to have this up and ready for San Diego Comicon. I will update as I get more finished.
Note the symmetry on the helmet pep. I tend to reinforce broad surface area pieces by glueing a second layer of 110 cardstock to the inside as I am building the piece. This hels to avoid warpage and creates a sturdier more crisp model.I also swear by using Zap A Gap medium thickness cyranoacrylite glue. I also keep a bottle of spray Zip Kicker handy. I run a bead of the CA glue along my seam, press the edges together and then wipe with a paper towel...this helps to draw the moisture of the CA glue into the adhereing pieces and makes it set fast and also hardens that joined adge. This causes my seams to become a support structure and also helps to insure that my pep is more rigid and stable than other glueing methods. Before people speculate and have wild theories be advised I have worked profesionaly in film and television doing props and costumes for over ten years so that is where most of my experience using materials comes from.
Torso appears large as it is on a female mannequin form, and I am also not exactly a small guy.
I decided to scratchbuild the handback out of styrene as I could get sharper detail than my pep was yielding. This was then molded in silicone and then cast in resin.
These bicep and shoulder pieces will get super detailed with sheet styrene to add in the crisp ridges and plate details. I prefer the control I get over the detail sharpness by adding that in after the base pep shape is done. These parts are still in progress.
Forearms being built up. Details are a combination of sheet styrene and epoxy putty.
Forearms detailed and sanded. Base coated in light grey sandable primer.
Painted and weathered, still a little more detail paint to be added later.
Upper legs pepped. I had to splice more cardstock into the inner thigh area as my thighs are thicker than the scale would allow for. I may still end up removing the inner thigh ridges and later sculpting them and casting in latex just for ease and comfort of moving around at conventions. I hate armor bites. Again thank you to MrOreo for his unfolds as they are ideal for the way I tend to finish of my pieces!
So there is obviously still a massive amount of work to be done. My goal is to have this up and ready for San Diego Comicon. I will update as I get more finished.
