Dying and Chroming Visors (Cheap) TUTORIAL

N8TEBB said:
Well the chrome will take care of the greyish colour... I would go easy with a light blue dye and then the chrome will take care of the rest.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Didn't know that. Will that work with more duller chrome too? I don't want to go for a full mirror effect, just a sheen. So I was thinking about paints like Krylon looking glass, Alclad chrome or maybe even Rustoleum mirror effect. The only light blue I know off is iDye Poly Turquoise, so I'll give that shot. Not sure how well the Rit Dye stuff works but they seem to have more options. Also does it matter if the dye or chrome comes first?
 
Last edited:
Aiden26 said:
Thanks! Didn't know that. Will that work with more duller chrome too? I don't want to go for a full mirror effect, just a sheen. So I was thinking about paints like Krylon looking glass, Alclad chrome or maybe even Rustoleum mirror effect. The only light blue I know off is iDye Poly Turquoise, so I'll give that shot. Not sure how well the Rit Dye stuff works but they seem to have more options. Also does it matter if the dye or chrome comes first?
Click to expand...

If you go with Rit, make sure you get the Rit Dye More. You need a dye designed for synthetic fibers, if its not designed for synthetic fibers, it won't dye the plastic.

Dye first, then do your chrome.
 
Aiden26 said:
Thanks! Didn't know that. Will that work with more duller chrome too? I don't want to go for a full mirror effect, just a sheen. So I was thinking about paints like Krylon looking glass, Alclad chrome or maybe even Rustoleum mirror effect. The only light blue I know off is iDye Poly Turquoise, so I'll give that shot. Not sure how well the Rit Dye stuff works but they seem to have more options. Also does it matter if the dye or chrome comes first?
Click to expand...
Definitely dye first, then chrome.

iDye poly does have a light blue (LINK) that I think would work quite nicely. It will work for a duller chrome in theory (that is, the colour will), but I can't speak for how the visibility will be with a duller chrome. The reason the mirror chrome works so well is because it reflects the light away from the visor. Because there's so much light on the outside of the helmet and darkness on the inside, you are able to see out of it still. If the visor is not reflective, I'm not too sure how well this would work.
 
I just realized I posted on my thread, but for those of you interested in using this method, DO IT!! It worked great for me!!! here is a link to my thread post about how I made my vac box for making the visors. LINK

Only advice/thing I would change. Make sure you clean your PETG sheets thoroughly before heating them up.
If you have a gas oven, I would suggest heating at 375 instead of 400 since 400 may have caused some microbubbles, but it is quite unnoticable once dyed imo. However this may be unavoidable due to moisture regardless.
PXL_20231118_180727119.jpg DSC00629-1-01.jpeg
 
he4thbar said:
I just realized I posted on my thread, but for those of you interested in using this method, DO IT!! It worked great for me!!! here is a link to my thread post about how I made my vac box for making the visors. LINK

Only advice/thing I would change. Make sure you clean your PETG sheets thoroughly before heating them up.
If you have a gas oven, I would suggest heating at 375 instead of 400 since 400 may have caused some microbubbles, but it is quite unnoticable once dyed imo. However this may be unavoidable due to moisture regardless.
View attachment 341239 View attachment 341240
View attachment 341241
Click to expand...
So you're the one that can hook me up with my visor for my new helmet right He4th? RIIIIGHT?
 
If you don’t wanna spring for an airbrush kit and/or compressor, they do also make spazstix mirror chrome in a rattle can. The visibility isn’t great (you might possibly knock over a child or table) but it is a cost effective alternative in a pinch.
 
Cappyace86 said:
If you don’t wanna spring for an airbrush kit and/or compressor, they do also make spazstix mirror chrome in a rattle can. The visibility isn’t great (you might possibly knock over a child or table) but it is a cost effective alternative in a pinch.
Click to expand...
I was wondering how effective that would be. I figured it wouldn’t spray as nicely as an air brush. Good to know that it can be used though
 
N8TEBB said:
It seems that the 405th is in need of a visor dying and chroming tutorial so I shall volunteer be the first to step up to the plate!

In this tutorial we will be covering how I dye my visors any particular colour, and how I use spray chrome to block others from seeing my face while allowing me to still see out! I prefer this method of making visors as I believe it gives me a very accurate visor while still being quite economical. Below are a few examples of the visor I have made with this method:
I have made a video tutorial on my complete visor making process that you can watch below. This written tutorial, however, will focus only on the dying and chrome process. I will assume you are starting with a clear visor. I vacuum form my visors out of 0.03" (0.762mm) PETG. If you want to know more about vacuum forming you can watch my video, or I believe there are also some written tutorials on the 405th on that topic, so I will not discuss it here.


This tutorial is spit into two parts: dying, and chrome. I will be following the same build in this written tutorial as I did in the video above, starting from the point where I have a clear visor to dye. At this stage the visor looks like this:

In my experience I've had lots of luck using iDye Poly to dye my visors. This dye works well with plastic. Regular iDye will not work! You can buy iDye at JoAnne's Craft Store in the USA. In Australia, you can buy it at Spotlight stores. For those outside of those places, you can purchase it online, however, it will cost you triple and take weeks to come it (sorry, I don't make the rules). As a Canadian, I cross the border to make the purchase. It runs me about $6/pack.


If you choose to follow the directions on the dye you will need to sacrifice a pot to be dedicated to dying as you will no longer be able to cook food in it. If you are like me and do not want to let a good pot die, you can do the dying outside in buckets. This will prevent you from having a constant temperature while your are dying, but in my experience this does not have a detrimental effect on the outcome of the visor.

For Dying you will need:
-Clear visors for dying (3-4)
-2 10L buckets (2-gallon buckets also work)
-2 packs of iDye poly (I find 2 packs gives me good colour for a 10L bucket of water)
-2 packs of colour intensifier (comes in the iDye packets)
-Rubber gloves
-Stir stick
-Thermometer
-Clean, soft, dry towels
-Plastic ploish
-microfibre towels or shop towels

Step 1: Fill a big pot with water and heat it to 150F (~65C). Pour this hot water into one of your 2 Gal or 10L buckets. Fill it 3/4 full. Add lukewarm water to cool the temperature to 145F (~62C). Fill another 2 Gal or 10L bucket with lukewarm water.

Step 2: Open the iDye packet and set the colour intensifier to the side. Place the packs of dye in the hot water. It is not necessary to remove the plastic as it dissolves in the hot water. Use the stir stick to mix the dye in thoroughly. Open the colour intensifier pack and pour the contents into the dye. Mix thoroughly.

View attachment 330975View attachment 330976
Adding the dye/Adding colour intensifier​

Step 3: Now you are ready to place the visors into the dye! I just place the visors in the bucket and try to make sure they are not sitting on their face. Some people have recommended that I suspend them with a wire. I think this is a good idea! You can probably fit 3-4 regular sized visors in a 2 Gal / 10 L bucket.


Step 4: After the visors have soaked for 5 minutes, take them out and rinse them in the lukewarm water. This allows you to see how the dying process in coming along and to get a more even colour. Place the visors back in the dye. The visors should soak for about 25 minutes total, rinsing ever 5-10 minutes.

Step 5: After 25 minutes you can rinse the visors for the last time and dry them with a clean, dry, soft towel. Congratulations! You have successfully dyed your visor.

Step 6: Before applying the chrome, use plastic polish to polish you visor. Plastic polish that they sell at automotive stores for headlights works just fine. Buff the visors with a microfibre cloth or a shop towel.

Now we are ready to move on to applying the chrome! This is what will prevent other people from seeing our face, but still allow us to see out. The reason this works is because it is very dark on the inside of the helmet, and presumably brighter on the outside. The chrome uses this fact to its advantage to reflect the bright light back out like a one way window! You will need some sort of spray chrome. I've used "Spaz Stix Mirror chrome" and "alclad II chrome" before with similar results. Just use whatever you can get your hands on. They are identical in terms of quality in this application.

To apply it, we will be using an airbrush. If you do not have an airbrush, FEAR NOT! If you can borrow a compressor from a neighbor (and don't tell me you don't know anyone with a compressor because someone you know HAS to have a compressor), you can buy a cheap $30 airbrush from Canadian tire that will do the trick. This is the airbrush that I've used for all my visors with lots of success. Link!
PerniciousDuke has another method for non-airbrush users: Link!
​
To apply chrome you you'll need:
-compressor and airbrush
-"Spaz Stix mirror chrome" or "Alclad II chrome"

Step 1: Set your compressor to ~25psi and fill your airbrush with spray chrome.

Step 2: Apply an even coat of chrome to the inside of the visor. Go back and fourth slowly making sure to get a uniform covering. You do not need to use as much as you think! Start on the lighter side. Remember you will not be able to see the full effect unless the visor is in the helmet.

Be careful! The chrome is really easy to rub off. Never touch the inside of your visor. Do not apply the "Spaz Stix clear coat" or any clear spray paint to protect it, this will ruin your visibility. I am yet to find a clear coat that does not ruin visibility. When under light you will still be able to see through the visors a bit. You can see black paint smudges on the paper towel through the visors in this picture for example. When these visors are in the helmet this will not be the case.

You are now done making your visor! It's now time to carefully glue it into your helmet and admire your hard work! Please leave any question or comments in this thread and I will do my best to answer them. Thanks for reading and good luck working on your visor!
Click to expand...
would SpazStix spray cans work or would it have to be through an airbrush
 
GregorHawthorne said:
would SpazStix spray cans work or would it have to be through an airbrush
Click to expand...
Hi Greg. If you look two posts above yours, Cappyace86 describes their experiences with Rattle Can SpazStix.

I have also used the rattle can and had a similar experience. It works, but it won't be as clean or smooth as an airbrush and your visibility will be a little less clear than an airbrush chrome application.
 
Here's what the rattle can Spaz gets you (I initially tried to wipe some out to improve visibility, but got a little worried so I backed off.


Sorry about the gigantic size. I'm still learning this whole shebang.


yEHH3hR.jpg


O7vZuse.jpg


caDQRs7.jpg
 
N8TEBB said:
It seems that the 405th is in need of a visor dying and chroming tutorial so I shall volunteer be the first to step up to the plate!

In this tutorial we will be covering how I dye my visors any particular colour, and how I use spray chrome to block others from seeing my face while allowing me to still see out! I prefer this method of making visors as I believe it gives me a very accurate visor while still being quite economical. Below are a few examples of the visor I have made with this method:
I have made a video tutorial on my complete visor making process that you can watch below. This written tutorial, however, will focus only on the dying and chrome process. I will assume you are starting with a clear visor. I vacuum form my visors out of 0.03" (0.762mm) PETG. If you want to know more about vacuum forming you can watch my video, or I believe there are also some written tutorials on the 405th on that topic, so I will not discuss it here.


This tutorial is spit into two parts: dying, and chrome. I will be following the same build in this written tutorial as I did in the video above, starting from the point where I have a clear visor to dye. At this stage the visor looks like this:

In my experience I've had lots of luck using iDye Poly to dye my visors. This dye works well with plastic. Regular iDye will not work! You can buy iDye at JoAnne's Craft Store in the USA. In Australia, you can buy it at Spotlight stores. For those outside of those places, you can purchase it online, however, it will cost you triple and take weeks to come it (sorry, I don't make the rules). As a Canadian, I cross the border to make the purchase. It runs me about $6/pack.


If you choose to follow the directions on the dye you will need to sacrifice a pot to be dedicated to dying as you will no longer be able to cook food in it. If you are like me and do not want to let a good pot die, you can do the dying outside in buckets. This will prevent you from having a constant temperature while your are dying, but in my experience this does not have a detrimental effect on the outcome of the visor.

For Dying you will need:
-Clear visors for dying (3-4)
-2 10L buckets (2-gallon buckets also work)
-2 packs of iDye poly (I find 2 packs gives me good colour for a 10L bucket of water)
-2 packs of colour intensifier (comes in the iDye packets)
-Rubber gloves
-Stir stick
-Thermometer
-Clean, soft, dry towels
-Plastic ploish
-microfibre towels or shop towels

Step 1: Fill a big pot with water and heat it to 150F (~65C). Pour this hot water into one of your 2 Gal or 10L buckets. Fill it 3/4 full. Add lukewarm water to cool the temperature to 145F (~62C). Fill another 2 Gal or 10L bucket with lukewarm water.

Step 2: Open the iDye packet and set the colour intensifier to the side. Place the packs of dye in the hot water. It is not necessary to remove the plastic as it dissolves in the hot water. Use the stir stick to mix the dye in thoroughly. Open the colour intensifier pack and pour the contents into the dye. Mix thoroughly.

View attachment 330975View attachment 330976
Adding the dye/Adding colour intensifier​

Step 3: Now you are ready to place the visors into the dye! I just place the visors in the bucket and try to make sure they are not sitting on their face. Some people have recommended that I suspend them with a wire. I think this is a good idea! You can probably fit 3-4 regular sized visors in a 2 Gal / 10 L bucket.


Step 4: After the visors have soaked for 5 minutes, take them out and rinse them in the lukewarm water. This allows you to see how the dying process in coming along and to get a more even colour. Place the visors back in the dye. The visors should soak for about 25 minutes total, rinsing ever 5-10 minutes.

Step 5: After 25 minutes you can rinse the visors for the last time and dry them with a clean, dry, soft towel. Congratulations! You have successfully dyed your visor.

Step 6: Before applying the chrome, use plastic polish to polish you visor. Plastic polish that they sell at automotive stores for headlights works just fine. Buff the visors with a microfibre cloth or a shop towel.

Now we are ready to move on to applying the chrome! This is what will prevent other people from seeing our face, but still allow us to see out. The reason this works is because it is very dark on the inside of the helmet, and presumably brighter on the outside. The chrome uses this fact to its advantage to reflect the bright light back out like a one way window! You will need some sort of spray chrome. I've used "Spaz Stix Mirror chrome" and "alclad II chrome" before with similar results. Just use whatever you can get your hands on. They are identical in terms of quality in this application.

To apply it, we will be using an airbrush. If you do not have an airbrush, FEAR NOT! If you can borrow a compressor from a neighbor (and don't tell me you don't know anyone with a compressor because someone you know HAS to have a compressor), you can buy a cheap $30 airbrush from Canadian tire that will do the trick. This is the airbrush that I've used for all my visors with lots of success. Link!
PerniciousDuke has another method for non-airbrush users: Link!
​
To apply chrome you you'll need:
-compressor and airbrush
-"Spaz Stix mirror chrome" or "Alclad II chrome"

Step 1: Set your compressor to ~25psi and fill your airbrush with spray chrome.

Step 2: Apply an even coat of chrome to the inside of the visor. Go back and fourth slowly making sure to get a uniform covering. You do not need to use as much as you think! Start on the lighter side. Remember you will not be able to see the full effect unless the visor is in the helmet.

Be careful! The chrome is really easy to rub off. Never touch the inside of your visor. Do not apply the "Spaz Stix clear coat" or any clear spray paint to protect it, this will ruin your visibility. I am yet to find a clear coat that does not ruin visibility. When under light you will still be able to see through the visors a bit. You can see black paint smudges on the paper towel through the visors in this picture for example. When these visors are in the helmet this will not be the case.

You are now done making your visor! It's now time to carefully glue it into your helmet and admire your hard work! Please leave any question or comments in this thread and I will do my best to answer them. Thanks for reading and good luck working on your visor!
Click to expand...
Now my question is, can I re dye a visor?
 

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