Aultin
Member
Can't wait to hear the results!
Foam Armoring
- Thread starter BenStreeper
- Start date
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Can't wait to hear the results!
nirvana katana
Jr Member
thanks for the great turs
Yes, I am saying that, BUT if the foam is NOT subject to being twisted or flexed, like in half. If it is sitting fairly flat (for something like a detail), on top of another piece for instance, I think it would be OK.
Feel free to contradict me if you have tried this and it didn't work over large or flexed areas. All I'm saying is it seems to be working fine for me. I'm planning to use a card base and the foam as a detail on top.
On another note, the Fibreglass test shows the foam held up Ok and the resin did not appear to eat into it at all. I'm going to do some more testing, but you could likely fibreglass resin the top of the foam for a hardener as well.
Just don't expect to flex the top when you have used these methods.
Zat German
Member
The overnight drying time with Elmer's Glue-All seemed to work better. It was much harder to scratch it off. It sealed the surface better and yielded a more reflective surface than Plasti-Dip. No clue if it could take spray paint or just dissolve though. The glue also seems to be somewhat self leveling, so you do not have to get it on perfectly smooth, it evens itself out. It would still be tough to do a whole armor piece, since the glue is going to want to run off of it while it is still wet if it had any curves. Also, when you bend the foam in an extreme manner, the glue separates from the surface of the foam which would cause more touch-up work than Plasti-Dip being bent.
Interesting...
I'm loving all this experimenting going on. It's like we're really digging deep to see what what works best with the foam and what it's limitations are.
I'm really looking into getting a hot-wire cutter. I'm thinking this could possibly provide another way of accurately cutting the material faster than an razor blade or hot knife... unless anyone has already tried this with less-than-positive results...?
Roadwarrior
Well-Known Member
Quick tip with hot glue, After you squirt the glue on the seam and mash the two parts together you can smooth out the excess by licking(Or wetting) your thumb/tool and slide it across the glue and it wont stick to the "tool" and it leaves a nice smooth edge.
Zat German
Member
Oh, I tried this at work with a co-worker who brought in his hot wire cutter for styrene. The foam would cool the wire down too much after a couple inches at a low temperature. At a higher temperature, it would cut but leave jagged and melted cuts in the foam(too hot, obviously). I think the wire was too thin at the normal 0.010" diameter used for hot wire cutters. A thicker wire should yield a larger surface area that takes longer to cool down. I have some 0.032" diameter wire that I am going to try making a hot wire cutter with eventually.
Whatever you do, just make your own, it is not worth buying one.
A hot knife will also cool down but with a sharp Xacto blade on it, you have nice sharp blade already, with the heat enhancing the cutting.
Has anyone tried the 'resist' method of weathering on foam? AKA, base coat, resist (toothpaste, etc), main coat, pull the resist up to show scratches. I know for the foam, there needs to be a layer of sealant over the foam and under the base coat. Figured I'd ask before I experiment on a small piece.
Zat German
Member
I am confused about why you expect the material to affect the method if it is sealed. The toothpaste is just an easy way to mask something to get random and natural looking edges.
Well, I just noticed yesterday that any of the current builds (that I've seen) have not really been weathered. That works great for ME suits, but for the Kat suit I'm working on, it needs to be heavily weathered. I don't have experience with the foam - I have attempted to weather rubber though and could really only get a decent result with dry brushing. When I tried to paint with resists, it would always pull the bottom layer as well as the top (granted, I may not have been as gentle as I should have been). I was buggered that maybe the process of pulling the resist off could potentially pull other layers of paint or jack up the paint around the resist through handling.
I know I'll be using multiple materials - plastic, hopefully the foam, and possibly some other products, and I'm just worried that they may not match up right if the weathering techniques have to be different.
I know I'll be using multiple materials - plastic, hopefully the foam, and possibly some other products, and I'm just worried that they may not match up right if the weathering techniques have to be different.
it hasnt really been hijacked....everyone's just discussing and asking questions about the process. since we havent heard from ben, we're all just trying to help each other out.
i dont really see the need to make an entire new thread just to discuss the very things somewhere else when all the tutorials and answers have already been discussed here
Zat German
Member
Well, the Harbor Freight mats definitely have a certain texture to them unpainted and a real texture on the textured side. They also have scars that I am guessing come from the molds and leftover material or something. This is one reason why I have been working towards finding a means to make the surface more uniform and smooth by testing various products. I can understand your concern with a mixed material build though. So far, I have not read or seen any techniques that could not be used on foam, once you get some kind of sealer on it. Of course, you are probably not going to be able to cast foam either so a person has to keep that in mind if they are planning on duplicating their work.
erockertorres
Jr Member
SO how long till we see a vid on cleaning up the armor and getting rid of a lot of the lines and gaps different pieces leave?
I just started my build and am very anxious on many of these steps.
I just started my build and am very anxious on many of these steps.
Privateer's is pretty weathered...
That's what I was thinking... but then I found a Proxxon Thermocut hot wire cutter for a quarter of it's original price... so I'm wondering whether or not this would be a wise investment...
Zat German
Member
Proxxon make nice tools.
The wire included with their cutter is too small though. If you are getting it for $25, as long as you can put a much larger diameter wire in it, it would probably be worth it, even if you just turned around and sold it for $50 if it does not work.What kind of wire does it take? Like musical instrument wire?Proxxon make nice tools.
EDIT: Nevermind, I was out-bid
Zat German
Member
The Proxxon ThermoCut and other commercial hot wire cutters use nichrome wire because it has consistent resistance properties. However, if you make your own you can use any kind of steel wire as well. A lot of people use guitar string(the higher notes, not the low notes that are wound wire). Stainless steel wire is a good choice because of its excellent corrosion resistance properties.
BenStreeper
Well-Known Member
it's ok, as long as everything said is helpful and stays on subject
Agreed, as long as everything stays on subject
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