Foam Armoring

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Wow, nice work there, Zat German.

Very good reference for anyone looking down the foam armoring path. I myself am just about to get into pepping, but was thinking to use foam for the less detailed pieces that needing to put together, or using some foam cutouts to work with existing pep work.

I wonder what foam hardeners are out their to strengthen the foam and also make is less flexible (ie. to remove / limit the possibility of twisting).
 
This is all extremely useful. Methinks I'm going to find my way to foam armor. I don't like how tedious the pep methods are. I have rather unsteady hands as well, so it only makes it more obnoxious.

Thanks for all the information and paint tests! You guys are all life savers.
 
I did 2nd coats of resin on my foam test pieces from earlier. Resin on bondo is nice and shiny and hard, BUT it will crack if you bend it too much. Ok for fine detail and areas that won't move much. 2nd coat by itself just makes the foam more shiny.

Personally, I'm really wondering if a hard surface on the foam is really all that necessary. Really all you want is something to give it protection. Sufficient coats of primer and paint should be fine for that.

let me know if you want photos, there is not a who;e lot to see though.
 
Personally, I'm really wondering if a hard surface on the foam is really all that necessary. Really all you want is something to give it protection. Sufficient coats of primer and paint should be fine for that.
I have mainly been looking for something that will produce a flat, smooth surface, not necessarily hard. The texture on the "smooth" side of the Harbor Freight foam mats is okay but because of the tiny holes, still kind of matte and distressed looking close-up. I believe I have found the perfect stuff to eliminate that when I need a really smooth surface for shiny paint jobs with Bounce and Foam Coat. Since the Foam Coat by itself was a bust(unless maybe it sticks to a Bounce "primer" layer), sanding is out but I mainly wanted the sanding to produce the smooth surface. I may eventually look into using it for non-toxic detail/clean-up work though too.
 
No intention to dispute what you are doing, Zat. I think your work is Great! I was just musing that personally I wasn't too worried about a matte finish. I wonder if somehow putting a layer of polystyrene or something over the top might not be simpler or easier
 
Fyi: this method can also be used for helmets :)

May I present my Foam Daft Punk Helmet version 2
This is based off of .... I want to say torso boys daft punk helmet pep???
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Nice work! I was thinking of doing an ODST helmet in foam but wasn't sure if it would work or not and now seeing this really gives me hope on doing foam.
 
Walmart is also a nice place to go... found some at Canadian tire (yes I live in Canada) but the had a diamond plate motif on them... then went to walmart, and they were around 10$ us

hopes it helps

If you have an XS Cargo store near you go check there.....they have black anti-fatigue matting...no diamond plate. 6 sheets per pack for $14.00.....
 
I have been following this thread since the beginning but not to intrude with such a stupid question and if it was answered before then please excuse me as I did not get it... But have we(you guys) figured out how to seal all the little lines and what not? Does the bounce and foam coat seal it so I can just sand and paint? I don't usually post unless I get restless and I need to complete 3 suits by may, I am trying to do the armored version of kingdom hearts: BBS.
 
When heat-forming EVA foam... does it produce a lot of smoke? Or any?
I'm wondering because I'm trying to scratch-build some stuff in my dorm room and I used the heat gun for maybe a minute, and the smoke detector went off for like 10 seconds, then stopped...
Should I stop? Or just be more careful?
 
When heat-forming EVA foam... does it produce a lot of smoke? Or any?
I'm wondering because I'm trying to scratch-build some stuff in my dorm room and I used the heat gun for maybe a minute, and the smoke detector went off for like 10 seconds, then stopped...
Should I stop? Or just be more careful?
That is odd. I helped a co-worker heat form EVA foam(Harbor Freight mats) for a Boba Fett costume as well as played with it myself and have not had any kind of fumes or smoke detector response.

It is possible you were putting the heat gun too close to the material and melting the surface slightly which was giving off some kind of fumes a smoke detector would react to. You really only need to warm the foam up, so keep the heat gun a good 2 or 3 inches away from it. As I was helping my friend, I told him that I bet you could throw the foam out in the sun on a hot day for a couple hours and then shape it. It really does not take much heat at all to make it change shape.
 
It is possible you were putting the heat gun too close to the material and melting the surface slightly which was giving off some kind of fumes a smoke detector would react to...
This is actually what I think happened... But I just found an outlet outside and worked on it in the courtyard of my dormitory. No big.

I did try out a little painting experiment on the EVA foam.
I used some plasti-dip to coat the surface of the foam and tried painting on it.
Now I know most of y'all are not new to the idea of using plasti-dip. But I actually tried the liquid kind as opposed to the spray kind.
Just using a foam brush, I "painted" some onto the foam:
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This gives it a kind of rubbery surface.
When I bend it, it doesn't crack, but it does wrinkle, but only slightly. Not too bad.
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I then tried applying some acrylic paint to both the plasti-dipped side, and just the strait-up foam.
Plasti-dip:
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Just foam:
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(Experimenting for an ice effect for my Sub-Zero halloween costume)

The acrylic adheres nicely to both the plasti-dipped side, and the foam.
The only difference is that when you paint directly on the foam, it tends to absorb a bit of the paint, making the colors less bold.

I have a theory that we could use the liquid plasti-dip to not only coat the foam for painting, but also to fill in gaps and seams...
I'll have to try it and let y'all know.
 
I have a theory that we could use the liquid plasti-dip to not only coat the foam for painting, but also to fill in gaps and seams...
I'll have to try it and let y'all know.
This does work too. Same co-worker text/pictured messaged me last night with photos of his Boba Fett armor that he painted and used liquid Plasti-Dip as the primer. He had to use the liquid because he could not get the spray. He also showed me his tests with the latex version of Kilz last week but it tended to split when bent, even with multiple coats.
 
i have been paying close attention to this thread due to my next suit i make is going to be made using the foam. i have been watching to see how people are painting and filling in the gaps. i have made latex halloween masks in the past and have used a perma-wet coating which is really and i mean really flexible, almost like silicon, and you add color to it and basically turns it into paint. the only thing would be the cost of a whole suit. the stuff is not cheap but not as expensive as other stuff i have seen on here. i have not tried it for this but i am sure it would work. when i begin my next suit. after halloween i will be using this to paint it with and i can post if anyone has not tried it before i get a chance to but check the stuff out..

http://www.monstermakers.com/product/perma-wet-gloss-coating.html
 
I don't mean to interrupt what seems like a really seasoned conversation, but does anyone have any pictures of the pepakura-template-cutting the armor pieces? I'm going to try Kirrou's HD ODST helmet with foam and I just need a visual reference for what to do with the pep'd parts
 
Does anyone know any online vendors of the foam that ben has been using? I tried finding some at the local walmart but either they are out of stock or don't carry them anymore.
 
I don't mean to interrupt what seems like a really seasoned conversation, but does anyone have any pictures of the pepakura-template-cutting the armor pieces? I'm going to try Kirrou's HD ODST helmet with foam and I just need a visual reference for what to do with the pep'd parts
My basic guideline is to not print any pieces that are thinner than the foam itself.
 
This is cool! Ive had an idea for foam armoring for a while to make a Optimus Prime cosplay. Im really exited for it. On the other hand, doeas anyone have any threads with optimus prime costumes?
 
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