- Member DIN
- S628
Looks great! Very clean build so far!
Wow, that came out great !!! I want to do the same and put an old phone inside just for effects.Another quick update!!
Last night while I was playing MCC, I noticed there were green lights on the wrist data pad that I hadn't noticed before and decided that I should add in the holes for them this morning. When I loaded up the game to get references I noticed there were some inaccuracies between my model and the game model, so I went back to edit my data pad to make it more accurate to the game.
The green circle is where I noticed the lights should be added at, the red circles are features that I needed to remove, and the blue circles are the features that I completely redid to get more accurate shapes.
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Now I present, data pad 2.0!!!
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Thank you! I do plan on updating that model soonish. Won't be in time for this upcoming con but I plan on getting to it!Wow, that came out great !!! I want to do the same and put an old phone inside just for effects.
What con are you going too?Thank you! I do plan on updating that model soonish. Won't be in time for this upcoming con but I plan on getting to it!
Denver Fanexpo! Coming up this weekendWhat con are you going too?
Nice ! Enjoy it...Denver Fanexpo! Coming up this weekend
Bondo is my best friend, do you sand wet or dry?Did some more sanding yesterday. My grenadier shoulder was having issues where I couldn't get the layer lines to fill in, so bondo to the rescue!
Fear the pink mist
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The bondo helped a lot and I was able to get this shoulder plus the knees wet sanded at 600 grit. These were the only parts that needed some work before I could hit them with 600, the rest of my armor is ready for that and luckily wet sanding does not take long.
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spitzkitz helped sand one of the knees. His is the one that looks good
Bondo I sand at either 320 or 400 dry. If I move to 600 and up I do wet sandingBondo is my best friend, do you sand wet or dry?
Cool I need to try that, i normally do dry on my prints but a lot of times it doesn't come out as smooth.Bondo I sand at either 320 or 400 dry. If I move to 600 and up I do wet sanding
I actually have not used BEHR before so I'm excited to try it out! The enamel does not harden it, it's just for the paint finishHave you used BEHR before? I love it but have never seen it in spray. I would love to see how they both look when your done. Does the enamel make it harder? I normally use fiberglass resin to smooth and strengthen but it smells so bad and is a pain to use.
Yes! I spotted it there and thought it looked interestingDid you get it at Home Depot?
I need to keep my eye outYes! I spotted it there and thought it looked interesting
Wow! That paint look great.After the failed vacuum form attempts I started reprinting all of the parts that were lost, including a new visor buck with double the wall thickness and infill %. While those were printing i started to paint a bit and am very happy with how the colors turned out.
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It was pretty windy out today so it was hard to properly paint the pieces and there was a lot of waiting for the wind to die down. During this time, I also decided that I did not want to force finish my armor for Denver FanExpo, since I'd rather take my time to do it right. I did decide I would try to finish the helmet for the con though, so I started painting that.
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While waiting for the paint to dry, I soldiered the circuit for the helmet fan. I also don't have an undamaged visor. So I took the least damaged one and purposely made it even more damaged using lone wolf as inspiration. Might as well lean into the battle damage (don't want to be a shinny) and use it as a temporary visor.
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After waiting some more for the paint to dry, I started taping up the helmet so I could add the black paint details. This took so long to do. I've done this twice before since I painted then repainted my original grenadier helmet, but it does not feel faster each time. After taping it up I sprayed the black on and am now going to go to bed because it is 4am.
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