- Member DIN
- S969
i belive you mean UWUndersuit*
Grenadier Spartan III
- Thread starter tahu505
- Start date
- Member DIN
- S410
i belive you mean UWUndersuit*
Invidiax4fan
Member
- Member DIN
- S935
Armor looks great! Will definatly use your armor as a guide for my upcoming Jorge build!
- Member DIN
- S970
Nice!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I got new foam for shoulder padding, recommended by NobleofDeath16 and this stuff is great. I've only worn it for 5 minutes, but I'm really excited to see how it does during WonderCon this weekend!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I have not made the Tactical Softcase yet like I planned, but instead made a model for the AAP/Ordinance Pack Oscar that was added to the MK V in Infinite yesterday. The attachment description says that this is referred to as the "Party Pack" by grenadiers. I just had to make this. I plan to add this utility to my right side and the Tactical Softcase to my left. I also modeled the 40mm grenades on this attachment to be hallow with threaded lids so I will have a little extra storage.
marinesniper
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S118
where did you find those file or did you make them your self? those would be awesome to have on the armor to keep your license or other id in even money for cons
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
I unlocked them in game yesterday, then took screenshots in theater mode and modeled them today! The initial idea was going to be to use them to replace the softcase. I was going to put my phone in one, wallet in another, keys in the third. Then when working out the scale, each grenade is only 40 mm. This is why I'm going to use the party pack and the soft case. I can probably still fit small trinkets inside the grenades, maybe a Mega Construx figure of myself if I get one. Anyone could probably scale these grenades up if they wanted to too. It just wouldn't look as game accurate, but if that's not something you care about then whatever. After thinking about it I decided for myself that I want to keep these game accurate and use the softcase as starter project for learning sewing.
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Alright! I've decided I'm going to do some upgrades to this suit this year! First one I'm knocking out of the way is LEDs. Lights have been long overdue for this suit, I've just been caught up with other projects. I'm starting off with lights in the tacpad and the chest piece. The thighs will eventually need them, but the files I used do not have slots for them, so I will either need to cut holes or make new thighs. That will be a later decision.
Starting off with my tacpad, I took a piece of PET plastic that I cut to fit the hole I modeled in. Then I sanded one side with 80 grit sandpaper. This is to help diffuse the light from the LED. I glued the plastic sheet in with hot glue at the top and bottom edges of the sheet. (BONUS TIP: use a compressed air duster to spray and quickly cool down large clumps of hot glue.) Next I soldered together a battery pack, resistor, and green LED. This circuit was glued in with the battery pack left loose with slack. This way, when I suit up in armor I can pop open one corner of the tacpad, slide the battery pack out, flip the switch, Then pop it back in, and close it.
For the chest, I only had time to do the front last night, but will be doing the back soon. Pretty much the same process except with 3 LEDs in a parallel circuit.
The big difference for the chest from the tacpad, is that the back of the chest is left open, so the LEDs don't have an enclosed area to reflect light off of. That can be fixed by gluing in cardstock backings for each LED.
No backing
Backing
All the cardstock backings in place
Front of the chest results
Starting off with my tacpad, I took a piece of PET plastic that I cut to fit the hole I modeled in. Then I sanded one side with 80 grit sandpaper. This is to help diffuse the light from the LED. I glued the plastic sheet in with hot glue at the top and bottom edges of the sheet. (BONUS TIP: use a compressed air duster to spray and quickly cool down large clumps of hot glue.) Next I soldered together a battery pack, resistor, and green LED. This circuit was glued in with the battery pack left loose with slack. This way, when I suit up in armor I can pop open one corner of the tacpad, slide the battery pack out, flip the switch, Then pop it back in, and close it.
For the chest, I only had time to do the front last night, but will be doing the back soon. Pretty much the same process except with 3 LEDs in a parallel circuit.
The big difference for the chest from the tacpad, is that the back of the chest is left open, so the LEDs don't have an enclosed area to reflect light off of. That can be fixed by gluing in cardstock backings for each LED.
No backing
Backing
All the cardstock backings in place
Front of the chest results
luciluv
New Member
looks amazing! i adore how the weathering looks with the LEDs on!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
LEDs for the back have been installed. The process was the same as for the front except I made 2 separate parallel circuit so that there would be 4 LEDs per battery on the back and 3 LEDs per battery on the front. Ideally they will last around the same time. Here's a pic dump of the LEDs being installed.
Results
Results
