luketrocity
Member
I did the left forearm. Came out great. The only problem I have is now where do I get the right one? If I choose flip pattern does that do the trick?
Halo 3 - Custom High Detail Models
- Thread starter flying squirl
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Robogenisis
Well-Known Member
Flip pattern does exactly that. You'll still need to re-arrange the pieces though.LukeTrocity said:
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luketrocity
Member
Thanks for the quick reply sir!Robogenisis said:
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First, did you read the stickies? Second, did you PM the Q&A team? Third, I would say probably about 40.7 for the scale (thanks to Macattack64 for helping me with mine). Read the stickies and use the Q&A team to avoid unneeded clutter on threads and the board. We are here to help.
Jax Archillies
Well-Known Member
that part surprised me. i as done, and was like, "what the heck is this part for?" took me a while to figure it out. im gonna have to attach it after the fact....
L3X BLU3R1V3R
Active Member
Remraf said:
Jax Archillies said:
Ive actually taken a really good look at the reason that the abs are not connected to the torso. if you watch the halo 3 announcment trailer, right at the part where the chief is closest, about the 1 minute mark, if you pay close attention, the abs are connected to the under armor and move seperatly from the torso.
Its also in the starry night commercial, where the chief leans up while looking at his ar, the abs come out from under his torso piece.
Im currently looking into a way to connect my abs piece to my under armor, no luck so far though. Though i havnt put alot of thought into it cuz im not ready to put it on yet.
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Robogenisis
Well-Known Member
If you go into Halo 3, turn and look around, you will notice that the ab plate moves a bit.
My plan for the ab plate is to wear it like a cummerbund (the colored waist piece of a tux), only higher on the body. I'm going to 'glass in a pair of elastic straps and place a small backpack clip at the end.
As for homerguy's question. You won't be able to get your head through the neck hole with the torso as one piece. You have to split it into two sections and then clip it together.
As for homerguy's question. You won't be able to get your head through the neck hole with the torso as one piece. You have to split it into two sections and then clip it together.
flying squirl
Sr Member
*applauds*thanks to DoC for pointin this out to me. it also alows you to ajust it to where it suits you best.
you should have a look at how he attaches his. im prity sure he has it so it's ajustable.----
bdw, ide just like to appoligise (again) for the lack of proper replys to pms and fixing the links in the first post. my connections is borked (again) and the connection im on now doesnt realy even count as a connection (took 5 mins to load this reply thingy). eventualy ill get proper access to a proper connection n ill download em all and re-host em with proper and easier links (again).
bdw, i cant find both unfolded versions of my latest mrk vi helmet. i know theres a link there but one of em is not right, its missing the detail in the lights. i think someone unfolded one of the teaser releases and passed it off as the final when it was unfolded.
eventualy ill get it all sorted but it might be a week or ...a few.
oh and if your wondering why, when you hide an object and it still re-appears when you go to unfold it, it's cuz your using pep 3. sorry. its a bit like vista.
FS
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The torso's neckhole is supposed to be smaller than your head silly, you gotta cut your head to fit the hole >_>
Jokes aside, it is supposed to be that way. You cut the torso into 2 pieces AFTER fiberglassing and strap it back together as 1 piece while wearing it.
Jokes aside, it is supposed to be that way. You cut the torso into 2 pieces AFTER fiberglassing and strap it back together as 1 piece while wearing it.
Kangaroo128
New Member
I'm looking to build one of Squirl's helmets, but I'm not sure which to use. I found one on the Armor Wiki that has 188 pieces but the one at the beginning of this thread only has 114. Is the one from the Wiki the more detailed helmet (I'm assuming so as it has more pieces) or is everyone using the one posted at the beginning of the thread? Thanks!
-Joey
-Joey
Different unfolds, same helmet. The one on here is much easier to build. On Objects list, get rid of the visors and leave the supports and floating details. You'll need to print out the file floating details at the same scale as what your made your helmet so they fit fine. The floating details are meant to be left on the pieces as a "template" of where the printed pieces go from the other file.
Kangaroo128
New Member
AoBfrost said:
Thanks for the reply. I was noticing some of the changes he has made to the unfolded pieces. Very clever way to make things simpler to assemble.
I've already sent the QA team a message regarding scale, but can someone that's around 6' tall chime in as to what they used. I've already built one of Squirl's helmets but it was too small at the default 0.267596 scale. I'm thinking of adjusting that to .28 and starting again. This will be my third restart overall and I want to get it right this time. The tester should definitely help with that too.
Thanks again,
-Joey
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flying squirl
Sr Member
hey, sorry i missed your question till now. thanks for covering frost.
the best way to scale the helmets is to get a ruler with cm on it, mesure from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head making sure to keep the ruler perpendicular and being sure to make it in cm (its what pep uses) take this mesurement and add a few cm for padding and such and input it into the assembled height part in the scaling. most people get a mesurement between 25 and 27.5 but its not unusuial to get it some where around 24-32cm. keep note of the scale you get, it might be helpful if you have to print out something seperatly where the assembled height changes.
the best way to scale the helmets is to get a ruler with cm on it, mesure from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head making sure to keep the ruler perpendicular and being sure to make it in cm (its what pep uses) take this mesurement and add a few cm for padding and such and input it into the assembled height part in the scaling. most people get a mesurement between 25 and 27.5 but its not unusuial to get it some where around 24-32cm. keep note of the scale you get, it might be helpful if you have to print out something seperatly where the assembled height changes.
Kangaroo128
New Member
flying_squirl said:hey, sorry i missed your question till now. thanks for covering frost.
the best way to scale the helmets is to get a ruler with cm on it, mesure from the bottom of your chin to the top of your head making sure to keep the ruler perpendicular and being sure to make it in cm (its what pep uses) take this mesurement and add a few cm for padding and such and input it into the assembled height part in the scaling. most people get a mesurement between 25 and 27.5 but its not unusuial to get it some where around 24-32cm. keep note of the scale you get, it might be helpful if you have to print out something seperatly where the assembled height changes.
Thanks squirl. I get a measurement of anywhere between 10-10.5 inches (it's hard to tell without someone looking from the side), so that would be around a 26.5cm measurement. So I'll need at least a few cm more than that to allow for the actual thickness of the helmet and padding on the inside. Thanks again, I'm just trying to make sure it's just right before I start again. Oh and the helmet looks fantastic btw, we have one partially done that was too small.
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Jax Archillies
Well-Known Member
sam116 said:
wait...you're 8!!!
what are you doing on the internet???
also please learn to type in proper English, and dont use caps.
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RadioactiveMicrobe
Well-Known Member
..He's 14, but he should take the hand off of the "Shift" key and type properly.Jax Archillies said:
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gamerguy55
Well-Known Member
*Throws out old chest piece*
Pshh! This new one will look better, anyway.
I love what you did with the files.
Edit: Ya know, it's times like these that I really hate being tall. Every time I decide to work on a pep piece, I have to drastically change the scale, so it fits, then spend about an hour rearranging all the pieces so they fit onto the paper. >.<
Pshh! This new one will look better, anyway.
I love what you did with the files.
Edit: Ya know, it's times like these that I really hate being tall. Every time I decide to work on a pep piece, I have to drastically change the scale, so it fits, then spend about an hour rearranging all the pieces so they fit onto the paper. >.<
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