Halo 4/5 master chief armor high poly 3d printeble for you!

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You are all guinea pigs fixing my errors so I don't need to worry when I am printing them! Mohahaha! :devil:

Just kidding :p I am very greatful for the feadback so I can pick out the errors that is hidden within that i don't spot before i release them.

I have fixed the fault in the chest plate, it was a dum thing i should have noticed... I have re-uploaded the zip files, note i have only fixed the the seperate chest plate not the file with all the parts.

It might be that i fixes the complete torso so it don't contain that error tomorrow.

Link: Torso v2.zip

Well tbh, on a project like this, there's bound to be some issues no matter how careful you are. It's nearly impossible to catch all the potential problems prior to print and considering the size and complexity of this thing, you've been doing a fantastic job imho.


PS : By the way Kristian, I'm sure nobody on earth would notice, but by mirroring the Y - axis during the creation of the armour, the allen screws' writing on the top have become mirrored too. :D (in V2 at least). :D

PPS : oh yes, daddy likes this :

16295450_365881957128284_260182557_n.jpg


16251215_365881980461615_14886081_o.jpg

16244623_365882013794945_270466178_o.jpg

16251551_365882050461608_329733867_o.jpg


Nothing done on it, pulled of the printbed looking like that so cleanup is still needed.

Single part print, ABS+, 0,2mm height, 6 wall shell in total, 20% infill (which considering it's nearly all WALL doesn't say that much). Printed on a 300USD-in-parts, self assembled Delta Machine. Took approx 50 hours of print time. Temperature was a bit too low, next part will be printed hotter.

Comes of the printbed like that. Not 100% clean, but the afterwork on this is pretty minimal.
 
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thanks a lot :) im gonna print the normal file any way and i might re print it when i will have more money and drill in the hole and find something to fill it or maybe if i send you my sliced piece you would be able to do it if you dont mind so i dont have to slice it again :) is it on both side if it is i will send you both

The problem is that there is multiple parts on the chest that was... shal we say seperate? yes, lets say that. They hadn't merged when i put it through the fixer for some reason. So the problem is that there will be multiple cavities around on the chest plate so i strongly sugest you re-slice/re-cut the chest plate. If you send me all the cut files of the chest plate I can re-cut it for you fast at the same places you have done so you can use the part you are allready printing. :)

Well tbh, on a project like this, there's bound to be some issues no matter how careful you are. It's nearly impossible to catch all the potential problems prior to print and considering the size and complexity of this thing, you've been doing a fantastic job imho.


PS : By the way Kristian, I'm sure nobody on earth would notice, but by mirroring the Y - axis during the creation of the armour, the allen screws' writing on the top have become mirrored too. :D (in V2 at least). :D

PPS : oh yes, daddy likes this :

View attachment 238629

View attachment 238630
View attachment 238631
View attachment 238632

Nothing done on it, pulled of the printbed looking like that so cleanup is still needed.

Single part print, ABS+, 0,2mm height, 6 wall shell in total, 20% infill (which considering it's nearly all WALL doesn't say that much). Printed on a 300USD-in-parts, self assembled Delta Machine. Took approx 50 hours of print time. Temperature was a bit too low, next part will be printed hotter.

Comes of the printbed like that. Not 100% clean, but the afterwork on this is pretty minimal.

HAHAHA! That i hadn't thought about at all. xD That is something I wont fix since no one will notice when it's printed since it is so small. ;)

The thigh looks amazing, wouldn't mind doing that myself so I wouldn't have to weld the parts. :p
 
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Hehe. Yup. I also need to check up on all the light ports needed on this armor. It's a bit stupid to first print them and then cut them out. Can just as well modify the appropriate locations so they are created during the printing stage.

The parts are done at 0.15 btw, not 0.20. The first testprint was done in .20.
 
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Getting started with the helmet myself - printed with PLA on Ultimaker Original, layer thickness is about 0,1mm.
Will need a few parts due the small dimensions (max. 200 x 200 x 210 mm), takes a little too much support material in my opinion (unfortunately it partialy melted together with the main structure and was not easy to remove...) old printer fails sometimes, haha:lol: have to clean that thing up anyway....
Actually my first attempt to print a prop. Huge thanks to CarterBuilder12 for the files - searched the whole web for that:)
As kaween mentioned, a tutorial on pla welding would be highly appreciated.
WP_20170128_12_34_12_Pro.jpg
 
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Getting started with the helmet myself - printed with PLA on Ultimaker Original, layer thickness is about 0,1mm.
Will need a few parts due the small dimensions (max. 200 x 200 x 210 mm), takes a little too much support material in my opinion (unfortunately it partialy melted together with the main structure and was not easy to remove...) old printer fails sometimes, haha:lol: have to clean that thing up anyway....
Actually my first attempt to print a prop. Huge thanks to CarterBuilder12 for the files - searched the whole web for that:)
As kaween mentioned, a tutorial on pla welding would be highly appreciated.View attachment 238912


I will for sure make a tutorial when I get the time. ;)
 
am i wasting plastic by printing with 5mm perimeter im trying to have great durability and drop resistance and save the most plastic i can since i have 800$ of budget for the whole suit
 
You know, 5mm perimeter is quite massive. Not to mention it will be heavy too.
But strength and durability doesn't only depend on perimeter : what type of filament you use (even brand and batch), what temperature and speed you print at, what layer height and speed : ALL have a significant influence on strength of the endproduct.

My advise to you : build ONE piece which you can test : in my case, I took a forearm. See how it behaves in terms of strength/weight ratio. There's no point in pushing through heaps of plastic when you're not certain how it will behave and the only way to get a clear picture of that is to make one or several testpieces and look how they act.
 
5mm is huge and gonna be heavy. Remember you're printing in essentially plastic rather than pepping cardstock, so you can go down to 1 or 2 mm and still be quite strong. You could print just thick enough for the model to hold its shape well after printing and then glass the inside for increased strength, lighter weight, and less printer filament used.
 
im sorry to bring the bad news but there are still parts on the right front side of the chest theat have 3 solid wall and no infill inside ;( on the side of the right square part i cant afford to reprint the part since its the 3rd time i print it and im now in the no 2nd chance zone because im out of money do you guys think i can fill it with bondo


EDIT nevermind this post i just saw it is the separation between the cylinder part and the square part hahahah
 

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im sorry to bring the bad news but there are still parts on the right front side of the chest theat have 3 solid wall and no infill inside ;( on the side of the right square part i cant afford to reprint the part since its the 3rd time i print it and im now in the no 2nd chance zone because im out of money do you guys think i can fill it with bondo


EDIT nevermind this post i just saw it is the separation between the cylinder part and the square part hahahah

haha! was just about to point that out that it doesn't look like it is an error. Just keep printing your stuf and belive that it is correct, if not just fix it in post. :)
 
i tried to separate the two top side part of the v2 shin in meshmixer lie they were in the v1 but it always put the fulll shin in orange is there a way to do this ? :)
 
i tried to separate the two top side part of the v2 shin in meshmixer lie they were in the v1 but it always put the fulll shin in orange is there a way to do this ? :)

Hi man! I am truely sorry for that error, hadn't realised that i had managed to upload the wrong file... I have updated the link now ;) so now all should be right.
 
I've printed the Chest part and noticed somethings missing. Pictures say more than a thousand words... so here goes:
chieffront-png.240843

I'm talking about the black part in the middle. The screenshot is from the in-game model. I thought about separating it and making a high res model for 3d-printing. But then again, it looks like best way to go about this is to make it out of foam and adding the details by hand. So I made a Pepakura file and added the textures to make it easier to put the details in by hand.

Here is a LINK to the file

Attention: The scale of this Pep file is at 90% of the original files from Carterbuilder12. So depending on the scale you use, you need to scale it accordingly.
 
I've printed the Chest part and noticed somethings missing. Pictures say more than a thousand words... so here goes:
chieffront-png.240843

I'm talking about the black part in the middle. The screenshot is from the in-game model. I thought about separating it and making a high res model for 3d-printing. But then again, it looks like best way to go about this is to make it out of foam and adding the details by hand. So I made a Pepakura file and added the textures to make it easier to put the details in by hand.

Here is a LINK to the file

Attention: The scale of this Pep file is at 90% of the original files from Carterbuilder12. So depending on the scale you use, you need to scale it accordingly.
Dirtsen, Carterbuilder already posted a pep file for that foam detailing piece about 2 months ago... ;)
 
I've printed the Chest part and noticed somethings missing. Pictures say more than a thousand words... so here goes:
chieffront-png.240843

I'm talking about the black part in the middle. The screenshot is from the in-game model. I thought about separating it and making a high res model for 3d-printing. But then again, it looks like best way to go about this is to make it out of foam and adding the details by hand. So I made a Pepakura file and added the textures to make it easier to put the details in by hand.

Here is a LINK to the file

Attention: The scale of this Pep file is at 90% of the original files from Carterbuilder12. So depending on the scale you use, you need to scale it accordingly.

Dirtsen, Carterbuilder already posted a pep file for that foam detailing piece about 2 months ago... ;)

As mblackwell said i have allready made one, but it's always fine to more versions of it sincs i feel mine wasn't quite as i wanted it to come out. :)
 
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