Have A Question? Dont Bother With A Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jay123way said:
hehe, umm well are you doing the HD or the regular armor? The HD is what comes with the supports. You may want to put some together with maybe cardboard, or some folded cardstock. They really do help. Although I have seen projects go fine without supports. So if you dont want to build them go ahead, but I always like to be more safe than sorry.



But if I resin in sections it should be ok right? How long does resin take to dry....?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spartan5511 said:
But if I resin in sections it should be ok right? How long does resin take to dry....?



Uhh yea it will work a lot better if you do it that way. Resin doesn't really dry, it cures, and the curing time depends on how much hardener you put in and how warm the atmosphere is that the helmet is in. But, word of advice, at 55 degrees resin shoulder get 10-12 drops per ounce, and the warmer it is, less hardener, some people have been able to use only 5-7 if its warm enough.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys,



I've read a couple of stickies but I'm still struggling to understand the next stage after Pepakura - the way I understand it is (bear in mind I'm in the UK so have product equivalents):



1. Resin outside in manageable sections.

2. Put Fiberglass Matting/Sheets on the inside (soak with Resin) to harden.

3. Bondo (or U-Pol/Isopon here) the outside

4. Sand to shape.



Is this correct? Do I have to sand right through the bondo and resin and remove the cardstock or do I just sand down the bondo to a thin layer over the resin to get the shape?



I'm not too sure about that whole process :)



Thank you.
 
CelticSpartan said:
Hey guys,



I've read a couple of stickies but I'm still struggling to understand the next stage after Pepakura - the way I understand it is (bear in mind I'm in the UK so have product equivalents):



1. Resin outside in manageable sections.

2. Put Fiberglass Matting/Sheets on the inside (soak with Resin) to harden.

3. Bondo (or U-Pol/Isopon here) the outside

4. Sand to shape.



Is this correct? Do I have to sand right through the bondo and resin and remove the cardstock or do I just sand down the bondo to a thin layer over the resin to get the shape?



I'm not too sure about that whole process :)



Thank you.



You have the process correct.



As for the sanding, you only should sand the bondo. Try not to sand through the cardstock. If you hit cardstock, stop sanding and move to a different area. You will probably have to do several layers of "bondo". Just apply the "bondo" in thin coats over small areas at a time, and build up from there. Apply, Dry, Sand, Repeat.



If you have any further questions, feel free to PM me, or add me on MSN or Skype. I will be more then happy to help you out.



MSN: xtremetactics@hotmail.com

Skype: xtremetactics101



Good luck!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok, so I have a new batch of questions.



First, I downloaded, printed, and pepped (the correct way ;)) a Halo 2 ODST Shoulder Piece. Problem is, with the real shoulder pad, the side pieces wrap around your arm (to an extent). With this one, there is a piece blocking that so it sits way off of my shoulder..... is there any other model that someone has that I could use?



Second, I printed off a Recon helmet.... but I had to change the paper to Letter. I did so, and all the pieces weren't centered on the pages, so I had to move them. Well, when I finally printed it, some warnign popped up and I clicked ok and it printed. To me, it looks like all the pieces are smaller than they should be. On the Pepakura designer, all the pieces fill up the pages of paper, but when I print it, they all only take up the middle, and the outside edges have several inches of clear space.... can someone help?
 
Spartan5511 said:
Second, I printed off a Recon helmet.... but I had to change the paper to Letter. I did so, and all the pieces weren't centered on the pages, so I had to move them. Well, when I finally printed it, some warnign popped up and I clicked ok and it printed. To me, it looks like all the pieces are smaller than they should be. On the Pepakura designer, all the pieces fill up the pages of paper, but when I print it, they all only take up the middle, and the outside edges have several inches of clear space.... can someone help?

That is supposed to be that way. You always have a margin around the pieces. To change it, go to File -> Print and Paper settings. The "Side Margin" and "Top/Bottom Margin" are the values of clear space around your pieces. Pepakura designer doesn't show these margins between pages, as they aren't really necessary. If you want to see the margins, open a file consisting of only one page, that way you'll see how much space you get.



Edit: and to add the fun to it, when you are going to do mirrored pieces and use the "Invert pattern" function, pepakura designer flips each piece individually, not complete pages. Just to let you rearrange all the parts again. :D
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Spartan5511 said:
Ok, so I have a new batch of questions.



First, I downloaded, printed, and pepped (the correct way ;) ) a Halo 2 ODST Shoulder Piece. Problem is, with the real shoulder pad, the side pieces wrap around your arm (to an extent). With this one, there is a piece blocking that so it sits way off of my shoulder..... is there any other model that someone has that I could use?



Second, I printed off a Recon helmet.... but I had to change the paper to Letter. I did so, and all the pieces weren't centered on the pages, so I had to move them. Well, when I finally printed it, some warnign popped up and I clicked ok and it printed. To me, it looks like all the pieces are smaller than they should be. On the Pepakura designer, all the pieces fill up the pages of paper, but when I print it, they all only take up the middle, and the outside edges have several inches of clear space.... can someone help?



Just hit no next time the warning pops up, that warning is asking you is you want to change the scale of the pattern because a few pieces do not completely fit, I find it easier to print it all off, and then the incomplete pieces(usually only a few) you can move to another sheet on pepakura and re-print.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi folks,



Can anyone explain to me (or direct me to a thread that answers this) the difference between the various Marks of Halo armour?



Thanks
 
hey there people!



im in dire need of a pepakura scaling tutorial plus a tutorial on how to measure my self(meaning for example on how many inches should i add to my measurements of my head or my chest)!i already searched for it,but i didnt find what i was looking for.can anyone please tell me where to go in the forum to find what im looking for?
 
Similar to my previous question about the differences between marks of armour, can anyone explain what CQB/Hyabusa armour is? Are these just the names of the guys/girls who originally designed the pep files?



Thanks!
 
Eeeerrrr, well, have you played Halo?



In Halo Combat Evolved (Halo 1), you are the master chief and wear the Mark V Armor (5)



In Halo 2 and 3, you upgrade to the Mark VI (6)



In Halo Wars, which takes place before Halo 1, the Spartans wear Mark IV armor (4)



In the upcoming Halo Reach, you will be playing as a cheaper and less stronger Spartan-III, not a Spartan-II (Master Chief), you wont be wearing a well known "mark" armor.



In Halo 3, as you play through xbox live and campaign and get achievements, you unlock armor to wear during multiplayer. There are several variants, CQB and Hyabusa being some of them. There is also Recon, rogue, EVA, EOD, Security, Scout, and a few others that escape me.



Hope this helped!
 
Thank you for clearing that up - I thought it was based on the various games/multiplayer achievements I just wasn't too sure ;)



Great help!
 
I'm a noob, and I have read this.

But, I will say one thing.

I will be asking a lot of questions to Moderators and overall experienced people.

So, I'm more or less going to apologize in advance :3
 
Hey, I've been pepping away, and I was wondering, I have the link to the signatures thing, where it shows your progress. But is there another one that has like a Halo 2 ODST? I've pepped a bunch of stuff for that.
 
i think that it should be a thread but im posting here to see whats going on...



so how about tutorials for underarmor!!!with pics and vids!that would be a nice addition to the stikies.



yeah i've been by the underarmor section of the forums and it appears that theres people full of ideas.but none standardised method like with the armors.and no pics or vids on how someone makes his/her underarmor.



im just saying.what i mean is that you guys were so awesome that you standardised a method for making the armors-you know pep-resin-fiberglass-bondo.(and i know it shouldnt have been easy to find the best way to do things,and i cant express how gratefull i am for that)



but it seems noone has found an easy way to make a good looking underarmor.yeah i know,underarmor is a little difficult to make or find but someone must have found an easy way to solve this.i'll probably buy a motorcycle racer outfit and mod it with those things from inside bicycle tires.but i can do that cause i have enough money to buy a racers outfit.Heard something about football underarmors somewhere.like i said tons of ideas.



im just putting it out there!



so i respectfully suggest that an underarmor tutorial would be a fine addition to this forum!(i say again im not demanding,just hoping)



p.s. i know that nobody is obligated to make the tutorials or share his craftmanship tips and hints.and i would never expect anyone here in this forum or anywhere else to do that(simply because making a great armor is a result of experience and lots of thinking and hard work and sometimes its not fare to see other people make an awesome armor easily on their first try with your methods.im gonna credit though on my every piece of armor the creator).im just saying that if theres someone out there whos in the good mood to do a tutorial about underarmors ...that would be awesome!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top