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Krallis said:
Em...why is it that I can start a new thread in this forum but not for ex in the 3d modelling forum??





because since your a new member you start in the noob forum and once you get enough post u can post anywhere
 
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alright, well i moved away from the pistol and on to the assault rifle from H3 and i have found something a little strange in the pepakura file. on the butt end of the rifle and behind the thing where your thumb goes, the very bottom of it appears to be of center. more specifically, one side has a fold that the other does not, but it doesn't quite look right. i also couldn't find an appropriate picture of this area so i have nothing to compare it to. anyone have a reference picture?



<<EDIT>> after looking around i think this issue may just be the low-definition attempt at showing the magazine. either way, this seems kind of silly
 
Xtreme TACTICS 101 said:
No.



You have to seperatly scale each armour part seperatly. Never, ever, ever, EVER copy and paste a scale number.



Contact me via MSN or Skype with any other questions you may have about scaling. I can also walk you through the proper scaling process that will work for any and all armour out there.



MSN: xtremetactics@hotmail.com

Skype: xtremetactics101



Good luck!



Ok thanks! But for my Iron Man suit, it was the files that you could import them all and they would all go to the right places. I put my height in and it gave me a scale for that, I can use that for those pieces right? I did that with the bicep before I posted the question and it worked out pretty well, I mean it looks right , fits a little big but I guess that is good for when I resin and fiberglass and bondo and then put padding and an undersuit on...



Progress is going to go slow for a while though, my best friends dad just died.... so I probably won't work on it for a while...
 
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nice thread im newbie here :)

tnx for posting its very helpful to new one that is so very excited to make pepakura:)
 
This is a often sigh tme in here well one why the !@#$ does noone post stuff on the index and also where are th ereach armor files i saw them once and now i cant find em
 
Hello, i have just finished my first pep(Master chief mark 6) and i think it turned out beautifully. I just started working on dungbeetles iron man a4 pep. I didnt scale it at all and i am concerned it may be too small? does anyone know about this file in particular? how large it is when fully constructed? thanks for the help.
 
Amp said:
Hello, i have just finished my first pep(Master chief mark 6) and i think it turned out beautifully. I just started working on dungbeetles iron man a4 pep. I didnt scale it at all and i am concerned it may be too small? does anyone know about this file in particular? how large it is when fully constructed? thanks for the help.



Hey mate,



Look at these 2 threads for help.



How to Scale Your Armour-Tutorial



Armour Scaling-FAQ



Those should help you a lot with scaling. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact me via MSN or Skype. I’m always glad to help.



MSN: xtremetactics@hotmail.com

Skype: xtremetactics101



Good luck!



P.S.- I have posted those links MANY time around the site. It is very hard to miss if you use the search function, and google search.
 
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what should i do for the glass on my halo helmet

i cant use a biking helmet glass

i need something i can see through but other peoepl cant

and can it be cheep?
 
After doing some research on this site, I decided to start my first project.. a Halo Recon Helmet. I started constructing the cardstock pieces together after printing them out from the Pepakura designer program.. but my question is.. when I "construct" or join the flaps together on the designer to resemble what I have done in real life, the numbers on the flaps change and it screws me over on how to compare my own helmet to the one on the screen. What's the reasoning for this and how do I fix it? Any input is appreciated, thanks. :D
 
L0L33TA said:
After doing some research on this site, I decided to start my first project.. a Halo Recon Helmet. I started constructing the cardstock pieces together after printing them out from the Pepakura designer program.. but my question is.. when I "construct" or join the flaps together on the designer to resemble what I have done in real life, the numbers on the flaps change and it screws me over on how to compare my own helmet to the one on the screen. What's the reasoning for this and how do I fix it? Any input is appreciated, thanks. :D



Do NOT switch up the flap numbers! There are several pieces that LOOK alike and LOOK like it is the right piece. You know what the fold lines mean right? Mountain and valley? I suggest making nice folds using a letter opener (Just rut a ruler on the line so that you can see a little bit of it, then press down along it with the letter opener. It won't cut it, but you will have an amazingly clean fold.) And then match them to their corresponding number. Trust me, it works. The recon helmet is very difficult. I started one a few months ago and it is sitting im my basement unfinished. I suggest getting one of the easier ones, or, if you are that dedicated, use precision and a lot of time.
 
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OK guys, I need a little help here....... I'm making a marine uniform with a helmet, chest, back, leggings, the whole works. i'm just having trouble figuring out how to cast and mold the chest and back peices for the marine from Halo 3. It is such a complex shape, I have no idea how to do it and still make it look awesome. Any suggestions or ideas?
 
L0L33TA said:
After doing some research on this site, I decided to start my first project.. a Halo Recon Helmet. I started constructing the cardstock pieces together after printing them out from the Pepakura designer program.. but my question is.. when I "construct" or join the flaps together on the designer to resemble what I have done in real life, the numbers on the flaps change and it screws me over on how to compare my own helmet to the one on the screen. What's the reasoning for this and how do I fix it? Any input is appreciated, thanks. :D





The folding isn't what I'm having an issue with.. I'm not changing anything around on the designer, it's just when I go to connect a flap.. it'll look like I'm connecting 100 to 100, and that will be what the piece says in real life, and as soon as it connects it will change to like 140 to 140 and all the numbers on that piece will change.
 
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Alright guys this might be a very common question, but still...



As we all know, fiberglassing is very odorous, requires some special equipment and blah blah. The point is, I can not be using the fiberglass method to strengthen my pep "creations". (Because my neighbors are made of so much WIN that they call Police even if I have my HEADPHONES set too loud. And there are some other reason why I don't want to use fiberglass) So I've done some research on other alternatives to fiberglassing and came upon a peculiar method. Has anyone ever thought about using a Truck Bed liner spray to add support. I know it sounds a little insane, cause you can scratch up your face if you use that on a helmet. But if you insert some pads or other soft material inside it might work....right?
 
Hello everybody.



I am starting work on my first project from here. I worked on Vash the Stampede's gun with 146 pieces on 7 pages so I have experience with paper craft and pepakura. I am going to create the armor that SPARTAN-B312 uses. I currently have the right paper, knife, glue, and files to get started, however I want to make sure the scaling is correct for the armor.



My questions are:

For the Halo Reach files, should I use Frizzlefry's equation, Chaman's table, or something I haven't gotten to yet.

Do I need a pepakura designer to scale the files?



I am currently using Pepakura Viewer 3.



I appreciate any and all help.
 
MasterShake said:
Alright guys this might be a very common question, but still...



As we all know, fiberglassing is very odorous, requires some special equipment and blah blah. The point is, I can not be using the fiberglass method to strengthen my pep "creations". (Because my neighbors are made of so much WIN that they call Police even if I have my HEADPHONES set too loud. And there are some other reason why I don't want to use fiberglass) So I've done some research on other alternatives to fiberglassing and came upon a peculiar method. Has anyone ever thought about using a Truck Bed liner spray to add support. I know it sounds a little insane, cause you can scratch up your face if you use that on a helmet. But if you insert some pads or other soft material inside it might work....right?

People HAVE used this stuff before. However, I am not sure if they used only that as a means of strengthening. Also, if you are in YOUR OWN yard doing work, there is not a law against that, so your neighbors calling the police are stupid. :pAlso, there ARE non toxic methods of strengthening, although a little more expensive, but goes a long way and is cheaper in the long run. It's called smoothcasting. Ben Streeper and STEALTH have good info about this stuff. You can talk to either one of them. :)



Indifferent said:
Hello everybody.



I am starting work on my first project from here. I worked on Vash the Stampede's gun with 146 pieces on 7 pages so I have experience with paper craft and pepakura. I am going to create the armor that SPARTAN-B312 uses. I currently have the right paper, knife, glue, and files to get started, however I want to make sure the scaling is correct for the armor.



My questions are:

For the Halo Reach files, should I use Frizzlefry's equation, Chaman's table, or something I haven't gotten to yet.

Do I need a pepakura designer to scale the files?



I am currently using Pepakura Viewer 3.



I appreciate any and all help.

There are a variety of different scaling methods. You just gotta use whatever one you feel comfortable with. Personally, since I am using pepakura designer V3 and it works in mm, I just measure myself and add about 2 inches for certain parts to allow for padding or any under armor I plan on wearing then convert the inches to mm and whatever I measured for (height or width, I never use depth) and I put that number in the corresponding box in pepakura. You only need to change one number as the rest will follow suit to keep it properly proportioned.



And YES, you need designer in order to scale. Personally, I NEVER downloaded viewer and never came across a situation where I needed it, so you can get rid of that and just get designer. :p
 
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Will plaster make a good bondo alternative? I'm short on time and money, so I just have plaster to work with, no bondo.
 
Aaron said:
Will plaster make a good bondo alternative? I'm short on time and money, so I just have plaster to work with, no bondo.

For that, I am not too sure about. I have come across a VERY small handful of people that have mentioned "plaster" in their progress threads, but other than that, I have not heard much. You can try and do a search for "plaster" and check out the results for what you get. You might find an answer for it in a previous thread. :)
 
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Thanks HaloGoddess. It's actually coming out fine, I just checked on it. It just seems like it will cruble, but it should be fine once it's painted I guess. I'll search that. Thanks :)
 
Thanks HG.



More expensive? No, I don't do expensive, I'm pro-cheap-o. I think I'll stick with The bed liner. Alright now I just need to get myself the Card stock paper and you should expect to see my Warmachine project take off...hopefully with success.
 
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