"Help!" for: Electronics

[thatdecade]

White LEDs need a voltage of at least 3.2 volts. Two triple AAA batteries have a combined voltage of 3 volts. Recommend 3 AAAs and a 100 - 200 ohm resister.

More info
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm#calculate

 

[LCBeagle]

I am thinking about taking apart a walkie-talkie and wiring it into my helmet. Would I be able to get the "talk" button on the outside of the helmet?

 

[Spartan 010]

"TECHNICALLY" all you have to do is add a longer wire so it can reach farther... I could be VERY wrong though! Wait for someone more experienced to answer before you try it

 

[ventrue]

I am thinking about taking apart a walkie-talkie and wiring it into my helmet. Would I be able to get the "talk" button on the outside of the helmet?

You can put that button anywhere you like. However, chances are that it's soldered to the device's PCB, which means you either have to desolder it or solder in a second one to bypass it. The latter option has the advantage that you can choose a different button, but both of them require that you know how to solder and desolder without melting the whole thing.

Also, there's no reason why the radio has to be in the helmet at all. You only need headphones and mic there, the rest can be somewhere else. It would make your life a lot easier, if you found a walkie-talkie with external ports for those two parts.

 

[thatdecade]

Those FRS radios all have headset jacks.

As far as running a new wire. Pop open the radio, identify the talk button and where it connects to the pcb, then solder two wires to that spot. Those two wires will run to your new external talk switch.

 

[LCBeagle]

Thanks for the info guys!

 

[Convoy 828]

I'm planning on making an energy shield and armor lock in my armor, nothin special just a few lights here and there, and im thinkin about using solar panels from solar powered outdoor lamps. Could that work? I'd put them on top of my helmet and as a custom attachment on my gauntlet, and possibly a utility or chest.

 

[Sacman]

This is my first post but since I felt that I could add to the discussion instead of detract, I thought this would be a great opportunity.

Back around page 18 there was a lot of discussion about using Graphic Displays. I dabble frequently in small electronics and this is something I happen to have a reasonable amount of knowledge about.

4D systems makes a standalone display module that has its own programmable chip on board. You pay a little more for them but they are well worth the effort for what you guys are trying to do. Sparkfun sells a couple fo them. I Personally would avoid the OLED and stick with LCD for cost reasons. The small 128 x 128 (1.44") display is $31.95 through Sparkfun. While this may seem steep, you don't have to be a genious to make it work. The software to program these is free. The only other component you need is a FTDI to USB convertor. I would recommend the one from 4D systems because it is simple plug and play with no extra components. You plug your USB cable in to the FTDI, the FTDI into the display and load the program. Plug the display into a regulated 5v power supply and it does anything you programmed it to do. It is full color graphic.

They also make a 96 x 96 which is a super small display, as well as larger 2.4", 2.8" and 3.2" displays that are all 240 x 320. Those three are also touch sceen displays. The were designed to work with a stylus so they are tough to use with just a finger but they will work with a fingernail.

I have both a 1.44" and a 2.4" touch. Both of them work great and are easy to program if you have even a rudimentary understanding of programming. Probably the greatest part is that you do not need an external microcontroller like an Arduino to make these work. They will run an onboard program pulling images, video and data off a microSD card.

Here is a link to the 1.44"

 

[ventrue]

I'm planning on making an energy shield and armor lock in my armor, nothin special just a few lights here and there, and im thinkin about using solar panels from solar powered outdoor lamps. Could that work? I'd put them on top of my helmet and as a custom attachment on my gauntlet, and possibly a utility or chest.

I guess you could use some, but they won't work well inside or when the sun isn't shining, so you'll still need a buffer battery. You might just as well skip the solar panels and recharge the battery at the end of the day, if you ask me.

This is my first post but since I felt that I could add to the discussion instead of detract, I thought this would be a great opportunity.

Back around page 18 there was a lot of discussion about using Graphic Displays. I dabble frequently in small electronics and this is something I happen to have a reasonable amount of knowledge about.

4D systems makes a standalone display module [...]

Here is a link to the 1.44"

First post and you made it in the electronics thread? Awesome! :-D

I remember that discussion, I was the one who had started it. I ended up using the monochrome OLED from Adafruit thatdecade had linked, you can see some bad quality footage of it in action in my MA37 thread. It's similar to one that SparkFun sells, but they don't have the PCB to go with it. I still haven't found a single store which sells breakout boards or connectors that work with it

The reason I chose that particular one was space. In my case, no other display would fit into the model. Even this one doesn't without cutting part of it off (schematic; display only), and while the 0.96" display from 4D Systems has the same basic form factor as the one from Adafruit, the PCB is packed to the edge with components, so you can't cut any of it off without destroying it. I also wouldn't want to risk destroying such an expensive device with a brute-force Dremel attack. I've already killed two of them, and the cost starts to add up.

And last but not least: I think learning to use Arduinos is worth the time. You can use it for so much more!

But I don't want to sound like I'm bashing your idea. I really appreciate the input! I didn't know, for example, that the 4D Systems displays can actually control other hardware

 

[thatdecade]

4D systems makes a standalone display module that has its own programmable chip on board. ...The only other component you need is a FTDI to USB convertor. I would recommend the one from 4D systems because it is simple plug and play with no extra components. You plug your USB cable in to the FTDI, the FTDI into the display and load the program. Plug the display into a regulated 5v power supply and it does anything you programmed it to do. It is full color graphic....
Here is a link to the 1.44"

I can only say WOW, it's a standalone solution and can be programmed with the standard FTDI cable I already have. Even has programmable IO pins to use. I can def think of some projects for one of these.

Too bad the smaller 0.96 one is the more expensive oled. I can still see a person fitting this in their prop, they would just have to plan on a larger display from the beginning. The display I designed is 1.1 inches wide, this one looks to be 1.25 inches. Not that much difference if you plan for it.

 

[ventrue]

Too bad the smaller 0.96 one is the more expensive oled. I can still see a person fitting this in their prop, they would just have to plan on a larger display from the beginning. The display I designed is 1.1 inches wide, this one looks to be 1.25 inches. Not that much difference if you plan for it.

You can cut those screw holes off to make it smaller

 

[slawrence]

how do i install a fan inside the helmet?

what do i need, i already made my odst helmet and in progress of making master chief's armor

 

[Zero Prime]

Does any one have an idea for a speaker system? I want to make it so it is easer for people to hear me when I am in costume and would i need a seperate power than lights? and speeking of lights do I need a seperat power system for each piece of armor that have lights?

 

[Jason 078]

My biggest succestion is to build the speaker system into the chest armor. I am suggesting doing it in the towers on the shoulders (though other areas are available, the mesh of most speakers would provide good detail there). Also, you have no real size restrictions for the amplifier. If you use a throat microphone (paintball style), you won't have any feedback, either.

As for separate lights, purchase a mini LED system with a good battery pack. A two or three LED package with a 9-volt is convenient and so is AAA. You might need a separate power system in each piece of armor, though. Otherwise, you are looking at a high-level wire job through your undersuit.

 

[goboy3133]

I want to make an AR and I want to add a counter. What would I have to do to add the counter as well as a clip sensor so that the counter can reset? PVT message me as well pls.

 

[ventrue]

I want to make an AR and I want to add a counter. What would I have to do to add the counter as well as a clip sensor so that the counter can reset? PVT message me as well pls.

You can use an Arduino, a seven-segment display, two switches, maybe a couple of small parts and some programming. You can also use a different sort of display (alphanumeric, LCD, OLED), but that is going to create more work and space inside the model may be an issue. Go back a page for more info on that.

And no, I won't PM you. Asking for help and then asking that people also bring it to you is very impolite in my opinion. If you want the answer, I'm afraid you'll have to come back here and read it.

 

[thatdecade]

Zero Prime, I agree with Jason about the speaker in the chest. Try to aim it at people's faces for maximum volume, convention floors are loud, so you have to be louder.

Slawrence, Installing fans has been discussed a few times. Can use the "Search Thread" button at the top of the page. Use the search term "fans".
View First Unread - Thread Tools - [Search Thread] - Rate This Thread - Display

Goboy, ammo counters do need a bit of programming knowledge to make. I recommend learning, is simple and a good life skill. If you're not interested, there are a few enterprising members of the 405th forum that sell ammo counters.
For a clip sensor, I like using a magnet combined with a reed switch.

 

[plemdog]

hi guys,

im a complete and total noob at this, so i apologize for asking this, bc ive been through this whole thread and nothing answered what im trying to do, and i dont wanna piss anyone off by repeating a question someone else has asked. what im working on isnt halo related...at all. its kind of like a ghost recon kinda thing (not exactly, just the "cross-com" eyeglasses.) but anyways, what i would like to do is get a set of goggles, or even a mask, and light them up with small LEDs in the lens to make it appear as though they are lit up and something is going on. along with the lights in the armor, which i see tutorials about and am currently watching.

im working on a film that involves futuristic armor which im just buying foam and stuff for along with airsoft masks and stuff like that.

thanks,
Trey

 

[thatdecade]

Seems simple enough, add LEDs like you described. What was your question?

Reminds me of this build a little, glowing eyes.

 

[plemdog]

ive been searching everywhere for LED lights that are already all setup with the battery stuff and equipment, etc. all set up and ready to go,....but cant find anything like that anywhere.

and in your video, i want to do that as well, with lights on the outside, but in Ghost Recon, their goggles (future soldier), or monocle (advanced warfighters) (depending on which would be easier) both emit a blue light and have data streaming across the lenses.

so, how could i do this?


(and by the way, excellent choice of music for the video )